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Engine: B48M-GA018/3631A
Over the past few months the throttle lever slowly drops down to around the 75% range. I can push it back up (like I’m slightly forcing it through a sticky throttle cable housing… but it goes back to full throttle - 100%). Then it starts to throttle down almost immediately.
Currently have it torn down (front end down to staring at the stator) to have the starter rebuilt. I stroked the throttle lever with the end disconnected and it moves freely. Obviously nothing wrong with the lever or the cable / housing. So am I fighting the governor here? The engine / governor is forcing the cable backward and as such the throttle lever??
Any ideas? Just don’t want to start reassembly if something needs to be fixed while it’s fairly torn apart.
Thank you, Matt
Automotive tire Tire Hood Motor vehicle Wheel

Tire Wheel Vehicle Car Motor vehicle
 

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Matt,

The friction to withstand the governor pull is built into the throttle control specifically the pivot point of the lever. Three options to correct it, remover the lever and peen the rivet at the pivot point to tighten it, drill out the rivet and install a bolt with a self locking nut so that the tension can be adjusted, or replace the cable with a new design OEM part which already has an adjustable bolt/nut to set the correct amount of friction to overcome the pull of the governor.

C33411 Throttle Control 200/400 1971-1986 (casegardentractorparts.com)

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Matt,

The friction to withstand the governor pull is built into the throttle control specifically the pivot point of the lever. Three options to correct it, remover the lever and peen the rivet at the pivot point to tighten it, drill out the rivet and install a bolt with a self locking nut so that the tension can be adjusted, or replace the cable with a new design OEM part which already has an adjustable bolt/nut to set the correct amount of friction to overcome the pull of the governor.

C33411 Throttle Control 200/400 1971-1986 (casegardentractorparts.com)

Bob
Is there any concern that I should have with “maybe the governor is doing it’s job” first? For example: but a $19 reflective tape and laser tachometer to ensure my engine RPMs are indeed LOW and then go nuts on fixing a loose rivet or upgrade to the new part (by the way Thank You for including a link to the new part). Or are we certain that it’s just the lack of resistance in the pivot point in my throttle lever that is absolutely the issue here? Thank you again.
 

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The governor governs when the throttle lever stays at 100% full position. It doesn't move the throttle lever, or at least it shouldn't.

Here's a low tech solution: cut a shim/slice of wood, about the size of a 2x4 cross section, that's just thin enough to fit into the slot in the dash panel, and long enough that when you slip it in place it wedges the throttle lever all the way forward. On my 442, I used a cut-off slice of a 2x4 that was about 1/8" thick. When I wanted full throttle I would push the lever all the way up and drop in the slice of wood. Pull it back out when you want to throttle down.

Since the cap on my steering wheel was missing, it lived in the steering wheel center hole when not in use.

Not fancy, but it worked perfectly every time.

Bob
 

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Is there any concern that I should have with “maybe the governor is doing it’s job” first? For example: but a $19 reflective tape and laser tachometer to ensure my engine RPMs are indeed LOW and then go nuts on fixing a loose rivet or upgrade to the new part (by the way Thank You for including a link to the new part). Or are we certain that it’s just the lack of resistance in the pivot point in my throttle lever that is absolutely the issue here? Thank you again.
It is a good idea to check the RPM's regardless. But many of us have had to tighten up that pivot on the throttle lever. Think of it this way yours has 38 years of parts under pressure wearing against each other with no lube. Even though there is not a lot of movement, it is going to wear.

Cheers,
Gordy
 

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The governor governs when the throttle lever stays at 100% full position. It doesn't move the throttle lever, or at least it shouldn't.

Here's a low tech solution: cut a shim/slice of wood, about the size of a 2x4 cross section, that's just thin enough to fit into the slot in the dash panel, and long enough that when you slip it in place it wedges the throttle lever all the way forward. On my 442, I used a cut-off slice of a 2x4 that was about 1/8" thick. When I wanted full throttle I would push the lever all the way up and drop in the slice of wood. Pull it back out when you want to throttle down.

Since the cap on my steering wheel was missing, it lived in the steering wheel center hole when not in use.

Not fancy, but it worked perfectly every time.

Bob
Bob that's exactly what I did. I tied a lanyard to mine so I can't lose it!
 

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Matt,

The friction to withstand the governor pull is built into the throttle control specifically the pivot point of the lever. Three options to correct it, remover the lever and peen the rivet at the pivot point to tighten it, drill out the rivet and install a bolt with a self locking nut so that the tension can be adjusted, or replace the cable with a new design OEM part which already has an adjustable bolt/nut to set the correct amount of friction to overcome the pull of the governor.

C33411 Throttle Control 200/400 1971-1986 (casegardentractorparts.com)

Bob
YEP, I have a 1/2 clothes pin stuck in my steering wheel, on my 69 442. for when I want more speed..
 

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YEP, I have a 1/2 clothes pin stuck in my steering wheel, on my 69 442. for when I want more speed..
Engine: B48M-GA018/3631A
Over the past few months the throttle lever slowly drops down to around the 75% range. I can push it back up (like I’m slightly forcing it through a sticky throttle cable housing… but it goes back to full throttle - 100%). Then it starts to throttle down almost immediately.
Currently have it torn down (front end down to staring at the stator) to have the starter rebuilt. I stroked the throttle lever with the end disconnected and it moves freely. Obviously nothing wrong with the lever or the cable / housing. So am I fighting the governor here? The engine / governor is forcing the cable backward and as such the throttle lever??
Any ideas? Just don’t want to start reassembly if something needs to be fixed while it’s fairly torn apart.
Thank you, Matt
View attachment 125910
View attachment 125909
Engine: B48M-GA018/3631A
Over the past few months the throttle lever slowly drops down to around the 75% range. I can push it back up (like I’m slightly forcing it through a sticky throttle cable housing… but it goes back to full throttle - 100%). Then it starts to throttle down almost immediately.
Currently have it torn down (front end down to staring at the stator) to have the starter rebuilt. I stroked the throttle lever with the end disconnected and it moves freely. Obviously nothing wrong with the lever or the cable / housing. So am I fighting the governor here? The engine / governor is forcing the cable backward and as such the throttle lever??
Any ideas? Just don’t want to start reassembly if something needs to be fixed while it’s fairly torn apart.
Thank you, Matt
View attachment 125910
View attachment 125909
As I've stated in previous posts, this happened on my 444 years ago. It was definitely the friction rivet losing tension.
Removing the throttle lever isn't the easiest task so I improvised a solution that has worked for years.
At least on my tractor I was able to access the rivet with some vice grips. I don't remember if they were needle nose or smaller standard grips.
What I did was close the grips on the rivet with some tension. I then opened and consecutively tightened and closed the grips until the desired tension was achieved.
Hopefully this helps and works for you.
Greg
 

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The vice grip idea worked for a while on my 1977 446. In the end it wore out. I made a hook out of some sheet steel I had laying around. Two pop rivets and a slight bend in the throttle lever was all it took. Now when I go to full throttle the lever latches in place at full. To slow it down just push it over to clear the hook. Not pretty but it’s my workhorse not a show queen. I’ll try to post a picture on here later.
 

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1973 Case 444, 1974 Case 644, 1976 Case 446, 1977 Case 646
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Somewhere on the forum I had read where someone removed the rivet and used a small bolt with a nylock nut. Then tightened the nut to get the desired tension on the throttle lever so it didn't back off.

Keep the Peace
Harry
 
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