[Ande]

Hello Friends,
I'm looking at a 448 that I actually use to own several years back,anyway the guy told me it runs good mowing and around 45 min it shuts itself down,he has replaced all the wireing,points,coil,and the safety switches he knew about.But,someone told me that Ingersoll,also put a safety switch on the back of the engine,that you must remove alot of shields to get at.Any thoughts on this?

I might be fine,as I'm only going to use it for snowblowing,and maybe tilling.But would rather get to the bottom of this.This guy got so tired of it shutting down,he parked it in the shed,and bought a new mower! Anyway it has the following,mower,snowblower,chains,weights,rototiller,cat 0 3 point! All in the package.Going to look at her tomorrow.

Any ideas would be very good of you all

Ande

 

[mikebramel]

Safety switches on this wont shut it down, only prevent from starting.

Check for spark after shut down. Coil, points rod
Is there fuel in the filter. Vapor lock

 

[mikebramel]

also check the fins on the block. maybe plugged up and overheated the engine. damage will result

 

[Bart]

You didn't mention that he replaced the condenser--my bet is that it is the source of the problem.

 

[Billygoat]

Check/replace condenser also. Kinda betting on vapor lock or clogged vent on gas cap. Bad condensers usually show up before 45 mins.
Edit: Bart beat me to it. :thumbup:

 

[Ande]

Yes condensor was also replaced.
So how do we fix the vapor locking?

 

[Hydriv]

As Billygoat said, it could be a plugged vent in the gas cap creating a high vacuum inside that eventually defeats the pull from the fuel pump.


Most issues are caused by a lack of proper and timely engine servicing. In order to pinpoint the problem, you have to bite the bullet and do all the things that should have been done.

- remove all tins and scrupulously clean all of the fins on the block

- remove the heads and decarbonize the combustion chambers as well as the underside of the valves.

- set the valve lash

- set the point gap

- remove the fuel tank, destroy the OEM fuel screen, install new fuel line that is compatible with ethanol fuels and install new fuel filter.

- make sure the routing of the fuel line is not picking up high heat from the engine that is causing vapour lock to occur.

- change the engine oil and use 30W oil only in the months that are above the freezing point during the day. 10W30 is OK during the months where the temps never exceed the freezing point. Engine oil helps to cool the engine by transferring heat to the crankcase but the crankcase needs to be kept free of grease, oil and dirt build up so that it can transfer heat to the outside air.

- make sure that the fan for the oil cooler is in perfect working order and also that the oil cooler fins are super clean. High heat from the hydraulic system due to improper cooling can cause the engine to run at a higher temp than it should.

 

[Ande]

I want to thank you all for the very good information.I told my wife,about this,and said,I wished these guys live closer,so I could personally thank you! :446:

 

[dweber85rc]

This definitly sounds like a fuel issue. On my 220 I had a horrible time with it earlier this summer. I would use it mowing after 45 minutes to an hour it would just sputter out and die. I replaced the coil, condenser, check point gaps and eventually replaced the fuel pump to no avail. Checked the fuel cap to see if the vent was plugged but it wasn't that either. But it would start up fine after an hour or so. So I shined a flashlight into the tank after it died and found soybeans in the tank! Apparantly the previous owner had left the gas cap off at one point and a mouse started to use it as winter storage. There were a couple dozen of those things in there rolling around. All was well until the tank would start to get low and pull a soybean into the pickup on the bottom of the tank-plugging it up. Check your tank for debris.

 

[Bart]

The next time the engine quits after 45 minutes you should do two things. First, spray some carb cleaner in the intake and see if the engine fires up in which case you definitely have a fuel problem. Second, check to make sure you have good spark (an inline tester is handy for this). These tests should point you in the right direction as to a fuel or electrical problem.

If you have a spark problem I would revisit all the previously mentioned electrical components to make sure that they were, in fact, replaced and properly adjusted.

 

[JSB Case]

The ignition switch can cause similar symptoms as well. It was probably covered when the electrical components were replaced, but something that shouldn't be overlooked. Good luck.

 

[Bob MacGregor]

Back off the fuel cap, it could be causing a vacuum if not venting sufficently. The original Case/Ingersoll regulator/rectifiers were known to let the voltage to the battery and electrical system get too high and cause overheating of the ignition coil. Check the voltage at the battery terminals with the engine running at high RPMs, should not be over 14.3 VDC. Ingersoll came out with a upgraded R/R years ago and it included a ground wire from the R/R mounting bolt to the battery ground terminal. C31249 is the P/N of the newer R/R. Check all plug together connectors on the tractor as corrosion will cause high resistance at the connection. Fuel problems can disguise as electrical problems and vice versa.
Mad Mackie in CT

 

[WVshooter]

FWIW, I had essentially identical problem on my 3012 about a year and a half ago, and was worse when the weather was warm. Granted, mine is a single piston Kohler, but a new fuel pump solved my issue. I suppose our friend ethanol took care of the old one. Good luck!

 

[Caseman2]

Hello Friends,
I'm looking at a 448 that I actually use to own several years back,anyway the guy told me it runs good mowing and around 45 min it shuts itself down...

I had a similar situation with one of my 446's, being as I'm inept when it comes to mechanics I never did correct the problem, all I do is when it gets to be about 43 minutes of run time I reset my watch (the tractor to this day has never figured it out). :mrgreen:

 

[case680rob]

Had the same problem with my 190 this last summer... fuel fouling. Runs great when cold and after it gets hot it will start to miss then just shut down. After cooling for twenty minutes or so it runs fine again. Checked the spark plug durring one of these shut downs and it was black with carbon and fuel but still had great spark. Adjusted the carb and haven't had a problem since. Though my model doesn't have a fuel pump to go bad you could have a similar issue.

 

[aljohn]

Check for vapor lock . 448's were notorious for them

 

[Ande]

Well guys, it appears we have solved this problem,and yes it was a fuel issue,I was blowing snow and it stopped,let is sit then started up fine and after a bit it stopped again,previously I have put a inline fuel pump close to the tank,so I took the gas line off going to the fuel pump and whala,,,no gas.Ran it in the shop stuck a air gun down by the outlet on tank and gave her a you know what,and a friend said a small pop and out come what look like either a small 0 ring or parts from a gas can.Took her out and the 23 year old "448" went to work and stayed at work! Fun to listen to the governor kick in and hear her snort and clean up all that snow.
Thanks to all of you that left ideas,,they all helped.This is a great site.Will need you again :446: :letitsnow:

 

[[email protected]]

Thanks for updating glad it worked out for you.

 

[Ande]

Yes,I cant be happier,as we received 16" of snow and I had sold my walk behind,although I bought a "446" that burns oil,but is still in cold storage,Geez,I think I really got the fever! HeHe!