I have a 220 with a serial that starts with 696 I can't find the year as those numbers do not seem to be available. I am guessing 69-70. So what are the proper decal package from Maple Hunter? There are 4 dash decals and it really doesn't say what the diff is. Any help? I also don't see the side panel decals.
220 Decals and serial year?
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Are you sure the serial starts in 696? I have a very early production 1969 220PK and it starts in 962. You may want to check that again. If all else fails, post some pics and we should be able to tell you the year. I see that you mention the side panels... Those were 1969-1970. If posting pics show the seat hinge area or the seat pedestal with the seat tilted up so we can see the area around the gas tank. This will prevent an identification error if the tractor has been re-decaled.CHolmes said:
John
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If this is a 1969 or 1970, the proper dash decals can be found on page 2 of the Maple Hunter site.
The proper dash decal will be Case Dash Decal #8. You will also need Case Steering Column #10. Pics will help to determine the correct hood and/or seat decals.
John
The proper dash decal will be Case Dash Decal #8. You will also need Case Steering Column #10. Pics will help to determine the correct hood and/or seat decals.
John
Cool, I will try to get some pics this weekend. I actually just accuired the ol' girl. I believe from what I have been reading it is a 69. It has been sitting in a field for at least 3 yrs maybe longer. Prievious owner said it was there when he moved but couldn't for the life of him get it going. Well I got it going last evening. Turns out fuel lines were on the pump backwards so when it was rolling over it sucked fuel from the carb side not the tank side. New carb kit and a cleaning and runs good. BUT it seems to not have much hydro power. It actually has more speed in low than high. Anyone have a test procedure to see what could be wrong? Pump/hydro motor or valve? I changed engine oil diff oil but not hydro, looks clean so I left it untill I could determine if it works.
I suggest that you go to our TECH section and in particular... the FAQ's. Since you seem to be relatively new to Case tractors, I think that you will find some interesting articles there to read. Make sure that you get to page two on the list. You will find out how to change the oil and what oil should be used.
I have read all that stuff and planned to change the oil when I determined that the tractor actually worked, well I know it runs, so good to go I guess. I think maybe I am not 100% sure of how it should work anyway. It is not the same as hydrostatic that is for sure. How much power does it have? I find I constantly have to give more fuel to keep rolling and in high it seems like it would not crawl up a hill. Should it? I think it should but don't know. I will run some cheap 15W40 through it and later on fill with synthetic if it all good. I can't seem to find any test procedures anywhere. Can the pump be tested? Simply? Can the pump be rebuilt if need be? Oh I assume the high/low range handle is up for H and down for L, not sure as it seems faster in low. If I move forward and pull handle down to full reverse it will drag the wheels and spin backwards but it will not do that from reverse to forward.
Locate the serial number of your tractor and record it. Go to the TECH section and use the serial (PIN) to locate the correct parts manual and operator's manual. Print them both out and read the OP manual
No.. this is not a hydrostatic drive. it's hydraulic drive. High Range is not for work. It's used to travel from the shed to where the work is. Then you use Low Range for the work. If the system is in good working order, the tractor will climb reasonable grades in Hi Range.
There's no need to use synthetic and I cover that in one of the FAQ's about which oils to use.
Spend some time in the Service Manual section that covers the Hydraulics. Pumps are not worth rebuilding. If you have read the FAQ's, then you should be aware of the "Where to buy stuff" document.
No.. this is not a hydrostatic drive. it's hydraulic drive. High Range is not for work. It's used to travel from the shed to where the work is. Then you use Low Range for the work. If the system is in good working order, the tractor will climb reasonable grades in Hi Range.
There's no need to use synthetic and I cover that in one of the FAQ's about which oils to use.
Spend some time in the Service Manual section that covers the Hydraulics. Pumps are not worth rebuilding. If you have read the FAQ's, then you should be aware of the "Where to buy stuff" document.
well I drained the hydro this evening, not sure what kind of oil is in there but it's out now. It is a bit dirty, some water by the color of it. I will let it drain good and run some cheap 10W-30 for a few days and drain again.
I need to get the steering shaft out, anyone know how that happens? I can't tell from the manual, that just gives an exploded view. The sector gear is worn very badly. Teeth are missing in fact. Sounds like a job for Maynard if he is listening. I need to get the shaft out so I can tighten things up a bit. Please don't tell me the engine has to come out. It is a tight spot in there.
I need to get the steering shaft out, anyone know how that happens? I can't tell from the manual, that just gives an exploded view. The sector gear is worn very badly. Teeth are missing in fact. Sounds like a job for Maynard if he is listening. I need to get the shaft out so I can tighten things up a bit. Please don't tell me the engine has to come out. It is a tight spot in there.
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I would replace that oil with some Rotella T 15W40 when you re-drain it. The 10W30 won't hurt the system (sounds like you had the right idea using it to flush out the old "fluid") but is a bit thin, especially at operating temperature for an old tractor with some wear in the pump and drive motor. If you can get the steering wheel off ( :fingerscrossed: I never seem to be able to without doing at least some damage 
) and remove the woodruff key from the shaft, you should be able to put the tractor up on stands and pull the shaft out the bottom. Drhulv had a thread in this section in which steering wheel removal is discussed. Just go to the "Search For" box at the bottom left hand corner of the page and type in "steering wheel removal". The sector gear is still available from Ingersoll, you can PM Brian or Tom here on pricing. Good luck with your efforts,
John
) and remove the woodruff key from the shaft, you should be able to put the tractor up on stands and pull the shaft out the bottom. Drhulv had a thread in this section in which steering wheel removal is discussed. Just go to the "Search For" box at the bottom left hand corner of the page and type in "steering wheel removal". The sector gear is still available from Ingersoll, you can PM Brian or Tom here on pricing. Good luck with your efforts,John
The sector gear is easily replaced. The Parts Manual shows you how it is retained. There are a series of shims that are used to adjust the clearance between the sector and pinion gears. You remove shims from the top of the gear and move them to the bottom on a trial and error basis until you get the clearance right. Don't loose the shims when you take this apart. Clean them carefully and they will separate because they are quite thin.
Go to the FAQ's to find the document on how steering wheels are removed.
Once the wheel is off the shaft, then it is possible to slide the steering shaft out the bottom but....... standing the tractor up in a vertical position may be necessary because you would need some pretty tall jack stands to get the needed clearance. Once the shaft is removed, you need to inspect it for wear just above the pinion gear. If it is badly grooved, then a new shaft is needed. Here's where it gets tricky. I don't think that Eastman stocks the older shaft with the Woodruff key and threaded end any longer. I believe that they only offer the cross-drilled shaft that accepts the later steering wheel. That may mean a new steering wheel is in your future.
The alternative would be to make your own shaft from cold-rolled round rod and thread the end after cutting the half-moon for the key. The pinion gear is often damaged only where it contacts the sector gear. You can remove the weld and remove the gear to allow you to flip the gear upside down so it can be welded to the new shaft.
Go to the FAQ's to find the document on how steering wheels are removed.
Once the wheel is off the shaft, then it is possible to slide the steering shaft out the bottom but....... standing the tractor up in a vertical position may be necessary because you would need some pretty tall jack stands to get the needed clearance. Once the shaft is removed, you need to inspect it for wear just above the pinion gear. If it is badly grooved, then a new shaft is needed. Here's where it gets tricky. I don't think that Eastman stocks the older shaft with the Woodruff key and threaded end any longer. I believe that they only offer the cross-drilled shaft that accepts the later steering wheel. That may mean a new steering wheel is in your future.
The alternative would be to make your own shaft from cold-rolled round rod and thread the end after cutting the half-moon for the key. The pinion gear is often damaged only where it contacts the sector gear. You can remove the weld and remove the gear to allow you to flip the gear upside down so it can be welded to the new shaft.
I got the wheel off np, where is the key? Is the Fwd Rev lever attached to the shaft somehow? I can't seem to get anything to move downward or upward for that matter. There is allot of play in the steering in the vertical motion. Not too bad back and forth. I have the sector off and Maynard is going to give it a go. The serial is 9629693, I believe that is early. :222:
Your tractor may have been fitted with the earliest steering shaft that is splined at top and not keyed. Nothing is holding the shaft in place, other than dirt, rust and ridges from wear and tear. Put the nut back until it is flush with top of the shaft. Place a short length of hardwood on top of the nut and smack it with a 2 pound sledge.
The travel lever is not connected to the steering shaft in any way.
The travel lever is not connected to the steering shaft in any way.
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[quote="CHolmes The sector gear is worn very badly. Teeth are missing in fact. Sounds like a job for Maynard if he is listening. I need to get the shaft out so I can tighten things up a bit.[/quote]
Bring it on over,I might as well make a buck off of you. :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
Maynard :canada:
Bring it on over,I might as well make a buck off of you. :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
Maynard :canada:
Update, I got the steering stuff out and Maynard welded up the sector gear and filed new teeth in it. He only charged me $350.00 bucks! Works perfect, what a deal huh? :grin: I tightened some stuff up and took her driving. Works pretty good I must say! I noticed she smokes when I first start it up so wondering if rings may be bad. Starts like a charm though.
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