[ken222]

ok, need help. 1974 case 222. I am going to assume it came with shim style clutch from factory. It now has EZ clutch on it. When I move the attatchment lever the horizintal clutch rod hits/rubs the front axle ,and the metal hydraulic line in the rear. Also, the clutch fork seems dangerously close to the fan when the clutch is engaged. So, questions are, is the horizontal rod different between the 2 style of clutches? Has anyone done a shim/EZ swap if so what problems did you encounter and how did you solve them. Thank you in advance

 

[ken222]

one more question, with mower running and clutch engaged how much should the mule drive spring be vibrating? variation in gap?

 

[ken222]

well, checked the manuals and part number for the clutch rod is the same,but the part number for the clutch arm/fork is different, they look the same tough. maybe just part number change?

 

[bhildret]

I think the fork is not a compatibility issue. There is actually a kit to replace the old shim adjust clutch hub ... turns the whole thing over to an EZ Adjust. Forks and cams are not affected in that kit.

Maybe some photos of your clearance issue would help bring out more thoughts on it?

The mule spring should be pretty stable while running. If not, generally an indication of belt or pulley idler bearing problems causing changing torque demand while running the mower deck.

Brian

 

[Bart]

There are two different lengths of forks that have been used on the clutches though I can't tell you why or the specifics of which tractors used which style. I believe the clutch linkage was probably different depending upon the length of the fork. You could examine some parts manuals and probably sort this out. My guess is that whomever may have installed the EZ clutch used a long fork where it should have been a short one in which case you may need to replace either the fork or the linkage. I have done some carefull, creative bending of the linkage to solve clearance issues in a couple of tractors.

 

[Rockdog]

I have a '72 444 with shim clutch and t-handle for PTO engagement. Here's what I've found when getting my Frankentractor up and running...

Front Cam - short side up. Rear Cam - short side down. Clutch engagement rod pulls eye on fork arm rearward to engage (move cams further apart) so fork should be close to fan when disengaged. Fork arm should curve with bottom forward not rearward. Is something backwards on yours?

Mine is SUPPOSED to have a fork arm that has no bushing in the eye that the rod attaches into. This type has smaller eye diameter and the retaining cotter pin is centered laterally at the eye. I am actually using a later style that uses a nylon bushing in the fork eye. I had to do some simple 'modifications' so that the retaining cotter pin hole in the rod could be utilized. I do not believe the distance from crank CL to fork eye is different between the two but the over distance from crank CL to extreme end of fork arm would be greater for the style with the bushing because the eye is larger to accomodate the bushing.

If your fork arm is hitting the axle I'd say you have a bent fork arm or per above it needs to be turned 180. If the lever rod is hitting then install a bushing in the fork eye and it will help tighten things up quite a bit. Same goes for the other end of the lever rod.

I also ended up installing an eye-bolt from the frame in which the lever rod is supported because the entire fork arm could rotate enough for the lever rod to contact the belt. There was a hole in the frame in the perfert location (had structural members bolted outside of the frame rails for FEL) when in engaged position already! Lots of 'slop' in that system when disengaged or without the eyebolt.

 

[ken222]

thanks for the replies guys. there is a nylon bushing in the fork, but still seems sloppy. maybe previous owner has it installed backwards. ?going to have to play with it i guess. i'll try to post pics to illustrate. Seems the more i dig into this tractor the more i am seeing backyard engineering, which is fine to a point, but with most parts available it kinda bothers me. any other ideas, or anyone who has specifaclly done a ez/shim swap on a 222?

 

[Bart]

Seems the more i dig into this tractor the more i am seeing backyard engineering, which is fine to a point, but with most parts available it kinda bothers me. any other ideas, or anyone who has specifaclly done a ez/shim swap on a 222?

Photos may help clarify the situation but I can tell you that the issue has nothing to do with the difference in the two styles of clutches since the fork and linkage would be the same. I suggest you carefully study the parts manual for your tractor to see if you have the parts installed correctly.

 

[Hydriv]

A shim clutch is almost identical to the EZ-Adjust clutch. The difference is primarily in the main shaft that all the components mount on. Almost all of the parts are the same part number. Of course, the EZ clutch has the big nut to do the adjustment instead of the shims. When the EZ clutch became available and customers came to the dealers with a worn out shim clutch, the mechanic installed a complete EZ clutch. And if you check with a dealer, a complete EZ clutch comes with a new fan and a new fork. That's the only way it is sold, as far as I know.

Switching from the shim to the EZ is as simple as unbolting one and installing the other. I have yet to hear of any magic tricks needed.