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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just purchased a used 3 point hitch which I believe is a H-26 and have the following questions and requests, Pictures are below:

1.) Is this model a H-26? (See Photo's below)

2.) Does the Case / Ingersoll kit include a seal for the top were the piston comes through the orange casing? (See Cylinder Photo's below)

3) Are there aftermarket kits available?

4.) I am missing the sway chain for the hitch does someone no what the correct length and size chain should be?

5.) Does anyone have the newer hitch that has the sway bar in place of the chain? I would like to see if this hitch could be modified to accept the sway bar. Any info and pictures on the sway bar lenght and mounting would be appreciated.

6.) The person I bought the hitch off of also has a CAT 1 scraper blade. Is this to large / heavy for the hitch? What is the hitch / cylinders maximum weight load? Just curious if the CAT 1 blade caused the cylinder to require rebuilding.

Any other advise on this hitch would be appreciated.
Mark

[IMG]http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/dd506/markgru02919/3 point hitch/Photo_020711_002.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/dd506/markgru02919/3 point hitch/Photo_020711_001.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/dd506/markgru02919/3 point hitch/Photo_020711_004.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/dd506/markgru02919/3 point hitch/Photo_020711_003.jpg[/IMG]
 

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markgru02919 said:
I just purchased a used 3 point hitch which I believe is a H-26 and have the following questions and requests, Pictures are below:

1.) Is this model a H-26? (See Photo's below)

2.) Does the Case / Ingersoll kit include a seal for the top were the piston comes through the orange casing? (See Cylinder Photo's below)

3) Are there aftermarket kits available?

4.) I am missing the sway chain for the kit does someone no what the correct length and size chain should be?

5.) Does anyone have the newer hitch that has the sway bar in place of the chain? I would like to see if this hitch could be modified to accept the sway bar. Any info and pictures on the sway bar lenght and mounting would be appreciated.

6.) The person I bought the hitch off of also has a CAT 1 scraper blade. Is this to large / heavy for the hitch? What is the hitch / cylinders maximum weight load? Just curious if the CAT 1 blade caused the cylinder to require rebuilding.

Any other advise on this hitch would be appreciated.
Mark

The whole purpose behind the CAT O, CAT 1, CAT 2 and CAT 3 system is to separate all of the implements into the same categories so that owners will not attempt to mount implements that are too large and too heavy for their tractor.

It is one thing to attach a CAT 1 implement to a CAT 0 three-point and something else to lift that implement off the ground and then find enough HP and traction to use it effectively.

That hitch you have is capable of picking up a lot of weight but the front wheels of the tractor will come right off the ground because the tractor is in the 800 pound class. The Case Planning Guides all recommended the 130 pound front counterweight kit when rototilling. Look at how close a tiller sits to the back tires compared to a back blade. It's not just weight. Leverage plays a huge part, as well.

If your cylinder is leaking, just take it apart. Then go see your local hydraulics repair shop and show the individual parts to them. They can easily match the seals and sell them to you. The chain you seek is readily available at most hardware chains such as Lowe's and HD.

The differences between the H and J 26 hitches are minimal. I believe that I put an OP manual in the Tech section. Parts manuals for the hitches are part and parcel with the tractor parts manuals. I'm working on those but you can still check the manuals on the Eastman site.

There's also an OP manual for the HH-34 hitch that has the sway bars on it. Take a look.
 

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What caused the leak is anyones guess but if it's coming out around the rod (I'm assuming that it is a 2 way cyl. and not a 1 way with the breather removed) it's on the down pressure side, not the lift side. Gregg
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks All, I am not sure were the cylinder was leaking. When I purchased the hitch I was told the cylinder leaks and it needed to be rebuilt. I will take the advise and take the cylinder to a hydraulics repair shop and have them match up the parts.

The CAT 1 rear blade is for sale by the same person that sold me the hitch. That is why I inquired about whether this blade was too heavy for the tractor and if it is the reason the cylinder needs rebuilding. I am / was hoping my snow caster would be enought front weight to allow me to use the scraper blade. I do not anticipate using the scraper balde for anything except snow removal, will I need additional weight in the front with the snowcaster on and a cat 0 blade? The CAT 1 scraper blade is a nice blade and I hated to pass it up, but, to remove snow I really do not need anything that heavy I believe this blade weighs about 190lbs.

There are many different size chains at the box and hardware store. I wasn't sure what size would be required or the length required.

Thanks,
Mark
 

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Mark,

I'd have to trudge up through the snowdrifts to measure the chain and I'm too lazy at the moment but what you need is a chain with flat links, oblong shape, approximately 1" long made with 1/8" wire. If you buy a piece 24" long it will be more than enough. The two ends fit through a slot in the lift arms and the center of the chain is anchored in the slot of the tow hitch plate.
 

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markgru02919 said:
Thanks All, I am not sure were the cylinder was leaking. When I purchased the hitch I was told the cylinder leaks and it needed to be rebuilt. I will take the advise and take the cylinder to a hydraulics repair shop and have them match up the parts.

The CAT 1 rear blade is for sale by the same person that sold me the hitch. That is why I inquired about whether this blade was too heavy for the tractor and if it is the reason the cylinder needs rebuilding. I am / was hoping my snow caster would be enought front weight to allow me to use the scraper blade. I do not anticipate using the scraper balde for anything except snow removal, will I need additional weight in the front with the snowcaster on and a cat 0 blade? The CAT 1 scraper blade is a nice blade and I hated to pass it up, but, to remove snow I really do not need anything that heavy I believe this blade weighs about 190lbs.

There are many different size chains at the box and hardware store. I wasn't sure what size would be required or the length required.

Thanks,
Mark
The weight of the blade did not make the cylinder leak. The hitch is capable of lifting the 190 pounds. If he used it on a Case GT, then it can't be all that large. I have a CAT 0 back blade and I think that it's only 4 feet wide. If the blade in question is 5 feet, then I'd say you should be OK. You should not count on the snow caster to solve the blade weight problem.

Here's why.

For sure, you can drive around with the blade and the caster in the air and one will counter balance the other. However, if you put a selector valve on the tractor and you drop the snow caster into float position to blow snow, then the snow caster is no longer acting as a counter weight for the blade. The blade is now trying lift your front wheels off the ground and that can make it difficult to get the tractor to go in the direction you turn the wheels to.

It's possible to make up a bracket to hold cast iron barbell weights to hold the front wheels tighter to the ground.

Take one of the lift arms off the hitch and bring it to the hardware store. Find the chain department and test fit the various chains through the slot in the arm until you get one that works. Consult a PARTS MANUAL for more information. I'll see if I can get Chuck to put the OP manuals on the site tonight. If not, I'll just e-mail the manual to you .
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hydriv,
Thank you for the insight on the snow caster being a counter weight to the rear blade. There is no substitute for experience! I thought I had the counter weight covered with the snow caster and did not even think of what would happen with the snow caster in the float position.
I do not anticipate using the snow caster with the back blade on. My Barn is not deep enough to store the back blade and snowcaster. I had plans on leaving the back blade in the driveway and after using the snow caster putting the back blade on and scraping what was left. Then parking the blade clean up the pile that was created by the back blade and put everything away. Besides that I hit to many things now without the blade on, plus adding a cab and losing visibility. But I can see it now being lazy and seeing if I could get away with using the snowcaster with the blade on for a little stretch.
Thank you
Mark
 

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I mostly used my blade to pull snow out of areas that could not be accessed with the snowblower. More than likely, you will want both attachments mounted on the tractor at the same time. That's where the selector valve becomes important. Of course, how you use the rear blade will depend on the layout of your driveway.
 
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