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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all.
I have a 1990 Ingersoll 4016 (SN# 14139863). I'm trying to figure out the source of an oil leak that sprung up over the snow-throwing season....which is like 8 months long here in MN :grin:
The leak seems originate up high under the battery and oil pools under the battery, then leaks down the side of the oil cooler towards the engine side (front of tractor). I expected to see a leak around a fitting or hose clamp on the reservoir, pump or oil cooler, but all the fittings and hoses are showing normal (for my tractor) oil gunk around them.
Here's a short video of what the leak looks like:

My diagnosis at the moment, is that the reservoir has a leak around the seam somewhere. It's the only thing I can think of, that would cause the amount of oil to pool under the battery.
The filler neck of the reservoir is not leaking. I have the reservoir filled to within an inch of the top of the neck.
My hydraulic oil (Rotella 15w/40) is due to be changed, and I have a new HP41 PTO valve and hydra bagger to install.
It leaks after the everything is warmed up and creates a small puddle under the tractor after I park it. It's not a big problem right now, but I want to get it fixed before moving on to the PTO and bagger installation.

Any other ideas on how the leaking oil could get up under the battery? If it was a hose or fitting, I wouldn't think it would get up that high...

Any suggestions on how to test my reservoir and find the leak?
The reservoir is not under any pressure during operation is it? I wouldn't think so....

Here's a few pics:



Thanks for any suggestions,
Jeremy
 

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Jeremy,

I don't know much about 4016. But I own three 446's and one 448, my manuel says fill reservior no higher than 5 to 6 inches down from filler. Too much oil will result in oil leakage from the fiil cap! this is directly from operators manuel. Remember when warm oil expands. I would check operator manuel for your tractor. Thanks.

Jim
 

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Jeremy,

I don't know much about 4016. But I own three 446's and one 448, my manuel says fill reservior no higher than 5 to 6 inches down from filler. Too much oil will result in oil leakage from the fiil cap! this is directly from operators manuel. Remember when warm oil expands. I would check operator manuel for your tractor. Thanks.

Jim
Ditto for the 4016 ... there might be more going on here also, but oil should be 5-6" below the top of the fill neck. That's likely your issue.

Brian
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the quick replies. So I totally mis-spoke on the hydraulic oil level. It is currently ~5.5" below the top of the filler neck. I recall reading that in the manual now, because I had made up a little stick with a line at 5" and a line at 6" and use it to check the level in there.

If I drain the hydraulic system, which i need to do anyway to plumb in my PTO valve, and remove the reservoir. Then fill the reservoir with hot water, do you think hot water would identify a leak?
That reservoir isn't under pressure is it?
 

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The cap shown in video just don't look right, but un screw your look at plastic insert in cap under that should be clear and have 2 holes in plastic open. My cap got one about plugged will clean in daylight. Fill point on one I have is 2 1/2" down top tank that level none comes out but is damp around top tank, you be okay at that level. 5" down that on long fill neck tanks like 400 series and others. Yes hot water will be good test on your tank but your 1" level may be too full warm oil later will expand close to 1 1/2 rise in top level. I did 1" now stable at 2 1/2 ".
 

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Oops if you at 5.5 there should not a leak out cap. While changing oil in hydraulic's air going take some time to escape travel be jumpy so put trans axle in neutral then move travel lever forward and reverse for few minutes each way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the suggestions and the info on the air in the lines. I got her all drained out today......and I found the leak!
Like Armstrong had, one of the little foot pads for the battery to rest on, has a tiny crack. I was able to put corks in the hose fitting holes and push some air in through the filler neck and spot the bubbles.

I haven't seen a used tank on ebay this past week, but will keep looking there.

What do you think about plastic welding this tank?
What kind of plastic is it? Polyethylene?

I've never plastic welded anything, but have seen the kits at Menards. Also there's several places around town that do it. I assume one needs to know what kind of plastic the tank is made of, prior to having it welded.
Here's a video of the leak (sorry I take pictures and video of everything I do in the shop, or else I forget where I leave my head sometimes):
 

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I think some have tried the plastic welding, not sure of the success rate. The price of a new tank used to be quite steep. I seem to recall a tag of $250 being thrown around. However, Ingersoll recently outsourced nearly all of their parts production to CPD and many parts prices have been reduced by half or more. You should check with one of our site dealers to find out. Maybe one will chime in here.
 

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One thing to look out for with used tanks is to check the condition of the bottom two fittings leading out of the tank. They often take the brunt of all the vibration and abuse that goes on down there. You want to make sure there is a nice, intact lip on both bottom extrusions from the tank. Otherwise the J hose going to the pump and the other Gates 3/4 hose will not tighten down well over that.
 

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Thanks for the suggestions and the info on the air in the lines. I got her all drained out today......and I found the leak!
Like Armstrong had, one of the little foot pads for the battery to rest on, has a tiny crack. I was able to put corks in the hose fitting holes and push some air in through the filler neck and spot the bubbles.

I haven't seen a used tank on ebay this past week, but will keep looking there.

What do you think about plastic welding this tank?
What kind of plastic is it? Polyethylene?

I've never plastic welded anything, but have seen the kits at Menards. Also there's several places around town that do it. I assume one needs to know what kind of plastic the tank is made of, prior to having it welded.
Here's a video of the leak (sorry I take pictures and video of everything I do in the shop, or else I forget where I leave my head sometimes):
 

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If you have not already taken care of the issue I suspect the tank is made of the same materials that they would use for gas cans. I am hoping you can answer a question for me. I would like to know did you have to remove the motor to take the oil tank out? This is a job I need to know as much about ahead of time to prevent the potential for this tractor to make it to the scrap yard, just kidding, the thing has been well taken care of, it has a 48 deck and a snowplow so basically everything I need.
Any help you can provide Brandon or anyone else would be most appreciated. I really don't want a trip to the funny farm as I have an easily tripped "feck this" overload circuit.
Thanks
Slainte
Skepticelt
 

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I just replaced the tank on my 4016. The battery rubbed through the holding tabs on the tank. Check there. Very fine crack there. Leaked all winter. Got a used tank on evil bay for 50 bucks.
Did you have to take the engine out to get at the oil tank? I have a 4020 with an oil leak I suspect it is the same story as yours. If you can offer any tips there is a beer in it for you up in Belmont Mi. It can also be lemonade if your tee total-er..
Thanks
Skepticelt
Slainte
 

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Did you have to take the engine out to get at the oil tank? I have a 4020 with an oil leak I suspect it is the same story as yours.
While I haven't had the need to take the oil tank out of my 4020ps, it appears as though the engine mount bolts may have to be removed and the engine slid forward on the frame to make room to get the tank out.

With the screen removed from the RH side of the dash tower, you'll have pretty good access to the return hose where it connects to the bottom of the tank. And if your tractor doesn't have power steering, I think you'll have decent access to the tank-to-pump hose via the access opening at the back of the dash.

Once you get the tank replaced or repaired, you can prevent future problems with the battery wearing into it by installing a part number C48415 tray.
 

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Thanks for commenting here on that wornout tank and removing it. Pretty much what Ray said as far as removing tank. My 4020 also had a leak in that tank when I got it. Found a used tank and replaced. I had not heard about the replacement part number C48415 tray to help with not wearing out the tank.

Thanks for that tip Ray!

Bill Moyer
 

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I sent it to a repairman. Best money I have ever spent. It had a leak In the tank and a hole in one of hoses. Now I put the plow back on and it can sit till next winter. I have a 44 deck but if it installs like the plow, I think I will just leave it and keep using my old one(tractor) till it gives up the ghost.
Any tips on plow or mower deck install would be most appreciated. Thanks.
Skepticelt.
 
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