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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi new guy here. I checked my battery with my volte meter checks 12.6 to 12.7 at idle. When I increase to half throttle it stays at 12 .6 Isn't it suppose to increase to at least 13 or more? Also i turn lights on it goes down to12.2 may go down more if I ran longer. I checked the regulatator/ rectifier it checks running 12 .6. I checked at idle speed my stator checks 15.6, at full throttle it checks 21 to 22 does that mean my stator is bad? Isn't it suppose to check 26 to 30 or more? If I need new one can you tell me what part # I need. It has 2 yellow wires and connector coming off the stator. Plugs in to white connector with 2 yellow wires and a red or orange wire off the rectifier. Any help appreciated. Hate to pull engine if not problem.
 

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Just to clarify. You probably know when testing the battery and output at the regulator, to have your volt meter set to DC. But for testing the stator, the meter needs to be set for reading AC volts. Sorry if that is being MR obvious, but some don't realise the stator puts out AC volts.

At the battery and full throttle, I like to see 14 to 14.4 volts.

Cheers,
Gordy
 

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With the engine at 3,600 RPM, the stator output should be 30 volts AC. A problem that I have found on 3000 and 4000 series tractors both Onan and Vanguard powered is dust and crud accumulation around the stator which causes it to get too hot and break down electrically. More than likely you will need to replace the stator and the voltage regulator. Charging system voltage testing should be done with a fully charged battery or with a shunt test equipment. The voltage sensor that operates the panel voltage indicator light is known to be problematic. On many tractors that I have serviced, I have installed a small diameter digital volt meter.:cool:
 

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I would suggest maybe you have started with a really well charged battery, that is key off 12.6+. Yes?

Maybe reconfirm your AC stator voltage as previously noted.

Confirm the ignition feed to the regulator (should be batt voltage with key on, engine off).

Most likely needs a regulator ... then if that really doesn't work consider the next step of stator.


Brian
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Just to clarify. You probably know when testing the battery and output at the regulator, to have your volt meter set to DC. But for testing the stator, the meter needs to be set for reading AC volts. Sorry if that is being MR obvious, but some don't realise the stator puts out AC volts.

At the battery and full throttle, I like to see 14 to 14.4 volts.

Cheers,
Gordy
Yes dc at battery ac at stator. The meter don't change from not started to started full throttle. Stays around 12.6 or 12.7 at the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
With the engine at 3,600 RPM, the stator output should be 30 volts AC. A problem that I have found on 3000 and 4000 series tractors both Onan and Vanguard powered is dust and crud accumulation around the stator which causes it to get too hot and break down electrically. More than likely you will need to replace the stator and the voltage regulator. Charging system voltage testing should be done with a fully charged battery or with a shunt test equipment. The voltage sensor that operates the panel voltage indicator light is known to be problematic. On many tractors that I have serviced, I have installed a small diameter digital volt meter.:cool:
Thanks its only 21 -22 volts full throttle. To clean I would have to pull engine anyway so might as well replace. Thanks for your information.
 

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I just did mine a couple years ago. Other than having to pull the engine, it's not hard. You will probably have to modify the block slightly to make a new or better path for the wires. Instructions were included w the new stator. Should find a whole thread or two on here from Bob MacGregor, one of the Gods of all things Case...
 

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You said full throttle but do you know what RPM you are actually getting? I would replace the regualtor before buying a stator at low 20 AC voltage. We find many vanguards not running 3600 RPM, either mis adjusted cables and linkage and or worn linkage and springs. Welcome from Case Ingersoll Tractors Northeast in CT.
 

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PS I would suggest using OEM parts especially the stator if you are going through the effort of pulling the engine you dont want to be back in there again soon with poor quality parts.Also recommend replacing both coils and diode OEM
while in there. Its a common issues as we put together a full kit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks Rockland Valley. What would be oem # for the stator? Where's a good place to purchace? Most I find are after market. Do I need 10-16 amp or 20amp? Also part number for oem # for rectifier/ regulator. I will try it first.
 

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Here are 3 dealers that sell parts here, all the time, All great dealers if I may add!
They all sell proper parts, and all of them have the proper manuals, and proper part numbers to match your tractor. Email 1 or all of them.

He's already posted on this thread, go back up on the threads and you'll see his post. Click on it, it'll link you back to 1000's of parts.


 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks for all your help I will let you know if the new rectifier fixes it or if I need stator. I also am purchasing a new key switch oem. By the way, me being new guy I'm not sure how to directly reply to the person that answers my question. I just hit reply under their post is that correct.
 

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Thanks for all your help I will let you know if the new rectifier fixes it or if I need stator. I also am purchasing a new key switch oem. By the way, me being new guy I'm not sure how to directly reply to the person that answers my question. I just hit reply under their post is that correct.
Yes, correct. Hitting the reply under a posters comment copies his post, and you reply to that post. Just like I did here,,
 
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