The shifting mechanism is quite simple and it could be that the shift linkage simply came apart. If you look underneath the tractor you should be able to see the rod that slides in an out of the transaxle to move the gear from high to low. The rod is on the left side above and forward of the axle and is about 5/8" diameter. If you move the shift lever and that rod does not move in and out then you have a problem with the linkage, if the rod does move then you'll have to take a peek inside the transaxle to figure out what's going on.
4016 transaxle problem???
Help! I have low range but no high range. Was shifting from forward to reverse and it just acted like it went into neutral, shifted it to low range and limped it back to the barn at a idle. It made a couple of clinking noises on my way back to the barn. after getting it back I attempted to put it back into high but shifter would just go to neutral. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
LLWC
Thanks,
LLWC
1 - 20 of 34 Posts
If Bart's suggestion regarding the shift linkage does not pan out, then I'm thinking that you have broken bolts on the carrier. Yes, I know.... this is a 4000 Series and that's not supposed to happen any more but nothing is beyond the realm of possibility. On the off-chance that I am right, then you should not move this tractor at all because you run the risk of damage even though that risk would be slight. If the bolts sheared right where they thread into the Hi Range gear, then that gear would fall away from the carrier and the sliding cluster gear would not be able to engage it. The four bolts would still hold the Lo Range gear in place because the heads are on that side.
This is a time to be very cautious. Make sure that the linkage is connected properly first but if it is, then you are going to be pulling the seat, fenders, fuel tank, front/rear panels so that you can drop the trans-axle out to open it up and see what's going on.
This is a time to be very cautious. Make sure that the linkage is connected properly first but if it is, then you are going to be pulling the seat, fenders, fuel tank, front/rear panels so that you can drop the trans-axle out to open it up and see what's going on.
If he lost a retaining clip from one side of the shifting fork, would that cause that problem? Seems like it would shift one way but the shifting rod would just slide in the fork going the other way.
According to the OP, he is able to move the cluster gear out of Lo and then back into Lo. If the retaining clip was missing from one side of the shift rod, then what would cause the shifter fork to move?Billygoat said:If he lost a retaining clip from one side of the shifting fork, would that cause that problem? Seems like it would shift one way but the shifting rod would just slide in the fork going the other way.
Friction :headscratcher: :sidelaugh:
Thanks for all the quick replys! I can move the shifter from low to neutral and back into low but it will not go back into high. Sounds like I am going to have to tear it apart. Thanks again, LLWC
Keep us posted. I'm really curious what the problem is. I'm still just learning about these machines. :thumbup:
If you go to the Service Manual section of the Library, you will find the Trans-axle sub-section and that contains useful information about working on this problem. :thumbsup:llwc said:Thanks for all the quick replys! I can move the shifter from low to neutral and back into low but it will not go back into high. Sounds like I am going to have to tear it apart. Thanks again, LLWC
Re: 4016 transaxle problem??? UPDATE
"Hydriv" you hit the nail right on the head. The bolts sheared right where they thread into the high gear. I lucked out when I drove it back to the barn in low gear. I can't believe I didn't tear the case and the gears all to heck! When the bolts backed out after shearing off they just bent over where they were sticking out of the low gear.
Now for some more info I don't have a clue how to take the transaxle apart to fix it!! Should I take it some place to have it done by a pro or can a "shade tree mechanic" (me) fix it.
Thanks again for everyones help,
LLWC
"Hydriv" you hit the nail right on the head. The bolts sheared right where they thread into the high gear. I lucked out when I drove it back to the barn in low gear. I can't believe I didn't tear the case and the gears all to heck! When the bolts backed out after shearing off they just bent over where they were sticking out of the low gear.
Now for some more info I don't have a clue how to take the transaxle apart to fix it!! Should I take it some place to have it done by a pro or can a "shade tree mechanic" (me) fix it.
Thanks again for everyones help,
LLWC
Re: 4016 transaxle problem??? UPDATE
&%#^ ! I hate that when it happens....llwc said:"Hydriv" you hit the nail right on the head.
LLWC
It may seem somewhat intimidating but you can do it.
As I suggested previously, start by going to our Library and download the Trans-axle Service Manual. You need to remove the hydraulic drive motor from the left side of the housing. You need to use a long piece of solid steel rod to punch the end of the brake shaft. There is a round metal circlip that sits in a groove and holds that shaft in place. You can't see that circlip and you don't need to see it. A decent smack with a hammer on the steel rod will push the shaft past the circlip and then it will slide out.
The axles are held in place by C-shaped retainers which are PITA to remove but easier if you have another pair of hands to help you.
You should also check out the Parts Manual and print out the pages that display the trans-axle so that you can see the various parts.
I suggest that you see if you have a CATERPILLAR dealer in your area. If so, go to their parts department and buy the highest grade of bolts they have available. You will need a torque wrench to tighten the new bolts.
If you need any help, just ask.
As I suggested previously, start by going to our Library and download the Trans-axle Service Manual. You need to remove the hydraulic drive motor from the left side of the housing. You need to use a long piece of solid steel rod to punch the end of the brake shaft. There is a round metal circlip that sits in a groove and holds that shaft in place. You can't see that circlip and you don't need to see it. A decent smack with a hammer on the steel rod will push the shaft past the circlip and then it will slide out.
The axles are held in place by C-shaped retainers which are PITA to remove but easier if you have another pair of hands to help you.
You should also check out the Parts Manual and print out the pages that display the trans-axle so that you can see the various parts.
I suggest that you see if you have a CATERPILLAR dealer in your area. If so, go to their parts department and buy the highest grade of bolts they have available. You will need a torque wrench to tighten the new bolts.
If you need any help, just ask.
Re: 4016 transaxle problem??? UPDATE
You need to get over being jealous of my lovely blonde pigtails. :sidelaugh: :sidelaugh:99flhr said:&%#^ ! I hate that when it happens....llwc said:"Hydriv" you hit the nail right on the head.
LLWC
Thanks again, we do have a Cat dealer nearby that I could get bolts from. I read somewhere what exact parts I would need to replace (seals, bolts, ect.) to do this job but I can't seem to find it again. Library was very informative pics helped alot.
Thanks,
LLWC
Thanks,
LLWC
This is the first 4000 series tractor that I recall had bolt problems.
I'm going to do the bolts on my early 4018 which now has over 2,000 hours on it, mostly from the PO.
When the situation where all four bolts have broke, the operator has no control of the tractor other than steering, no forward or reverse, no brakes, no nothing but steering. My 1985 448 did this while I was mowing on a hill, the results put me in the ER and wondering what had happened. A local UPS driver saw the whole thing unfold and stopped and helped me. My 448 had liquid filled rear tires, it doesn't any more, but that is another topic of conversation.
Mad Mackie in CT :mrgreen: :mowlawn:
I'm going to do the bolts on my early 4018 which now has over 2,000 hours on it, mostly from the PO.
When the situation where all four bolts have broke, the operator has no control of the tractor other than steering, no forward or reverse, no brakes, no nothing but steering. My 1985 448 did this while I was mowing on a hill, the results put me in the ER and wondering what had happened. A local UPS driver saw the whole thing unfold and stopped and helped me. My 448 had liquid filled rear tires, it doesn't any more, but that is another topic of conversation.
Mad Mackie in CT :mrgreen: :mowlawn:
This is one of those situations where you probably don't need new seals at this point but since the trans-axle is out and dismantled.............why not?
Brian Hildreth's contact information is in the FAQ's section under "Ingersoll dealers". He can ship the three axle and brake shaft seals plus the one for the shifter rod and the O-ring on the motor. If you need a new top gasket, he will have that too. Just give Brian the serial number and model number of your tractor and he will do the rest.
Brian Hildreth's contact information is in the FAQ's section under "Ingersoll dealers". He can ship the three axle and brake shaft seals plus the one for the shifter rod and the O-ring on the motor. If you need a new top gasket, he will have that too. Just give Brian the serial number and model number of your tractor and he will do the rest.
:headscratcher: This is the second 4000 with bolt issues that I've read about.
not that many compared to the amout of 4000 units in use. :thumbsup:
Have never read of a 200 or 3000 yet. :thumbsup: :thumbsup: Low Pro Tuff :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
not that many compared to the amout of 4000 units in use. :thumbsup:
Have never read of a 200 or 3000 yet. :thumbsup: :thumbsup: Low Pro Tuff :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Don't get too smug, Flatlander. If I recall correctly, Tom Hanson has seen broken bolts on a few 200's in his day. The trans-axles are identical between the Lo Pro and High-Wheel models. What we are talking about here is the higher torque of the 400 motor combined with the bigger rear wheels. That's why the 400's are more prone to this type of failure.Stewart said::headscratcher: This is the second 4000 with bolt issues that I've read about.
not that many compared to the amout of 4000 units in use. :thumbsup:
Have never read of a 200 or 3000 yet. :thumbsup: :thumbsup: Low Pro Tuff :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Reminder of what I learned and was discussed in my thread on this: CAT dealers no longer stock those bolts in that size, if there are no NOS, they will order them. BUT: Brian has them (of course) or you can get them (or even grade 9!) from McMaster-Carr. Both will ship to your house, saving a trip back to CAT.
Just want to thank everyone again. Heading out to the barn in a few minutes to attempt to disassemble transaxle,wish me luck!!
1 - 20 of 34 Posts
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