I noticed my Neutral light was also not lighting up. It was blink every once in a while while jiggling the F/R lever.The fact that jiggling the forward/reverse lever used to allow it to start seems to suggest that you may be dealing with a neutral safety switch that is out of adjustment or worn out.
There is a group of 3 switches located under the dash (just rearward of the battery). One is the neutral start switch (tan & dark blue wires), another is for the neutral light (red and red/white wires), and the last is wired into the ignition / seat safety switch circuit (tan & white wires). When the travel lever is moved to the neutral position, it should activate all 3 of these switches (if not, adjustment may be necessary).
If the adjustment is okay, the next thing to check for would be a defective switch. Since all 3 switches are the same, a quick test is to unplug and swap the connectors between the neutral safety & neutral light switches. Assuming the neutral light switch was okay, this will now put it in the neutral start circuit and allow the engine to crank if there aren't any other issues.
If that doesn't do the trick, you could be dealing with a bad ignition swtich, bad PTO switch, or bad electrical connection. A test light or voltmeter along with the wiring diagram (available in the operator's manual) can be used to check for power at each point along the circuit until you locate the trouble spot.
Its probably in the threads Gordy supplied for you but switches will make an audible click sound, when their levers are moved. You'll have to pull the battery and give them some slack. The sound may be strong, or faint. Listen closely as you move the lever with your finger. Then make sure the switch actuator moves through that operable range.OK...how do I know he switches are adjusted correctly and how do I adjust them if they're not?
As Dave said, listen for the audible click of the switches as you move the travel lever into the neutral position. I have seen some instances of only 1 or 2 of the switches being out of adjustment and it can be hard to tell if all 3 are clicking or just 1 or 2. So with the travel lever in neutral (and the battery removed for easier access), try to manipulate the switches by hand (gently try to push the little metal lever on the switch closer to the plastic switch body). If the switches are properly adjusted, they will have already clicked into position with the travel lever in neutral so gently pushing on the levers should not result in any of them clicking. But if you do hear a click, that indicates the switch is out of adjustment and not being activated.OK...how do I know he switches are adjusted correctly and how do I adjust them if they're not?
Hmm. First I've heard of that one.Kre, I don't know about your 4016, but on my '87 446 I had the same problem - jiggling the travel control lever so that the neutral start switch would allow it to start. On my 446 the travel control lever itself needs a good ground for this to work. I solved my problem by running a separate ground wire from the battery NEG to the lever shaft attached with a ground rod clamp. Problem solved and no jiggling since.
Yeah, what Bob described can be an issue on the 200/400 series tractors since they make use of the travel control lever itself to form part of the neutral safety switch circuit to ground. That all changed with the 3000/4000 series since they use micro switches that only need to be mechanically actuated by the travel control lever.Hmm. First I've heard of that one.