[Hawthicket]

Have any of you replaced the entire clutch assembly-including the hub-on a first generation 442. The pressure plate appears to be welded to the hub—no screws to remove. I cannt figure out how to get the pressure plate off to access the 4 bolts to remove the hub from the engine. The hub is in pretty bad shape. Is the pressure plate pressed on? A wheel puller only bends the plate—doesn’t slip off.

 

[bobneumann]

Have any of you replaced the entire clutch assembly-including the hub-on a first generation 442. The pressure plate appears to be welded to the hub—no screws to remove. I cannt figure out how to get the pressure plate off to access the 4 bolts to remove the hub from the engine. The hub is in pretty bad shape. Is the pressure plate pressed on? A wheel puller only bends the plate—doesn’t slip off.

Have you looked in the PTO section of the manuals?

The hub bolts to the flywheel. Then the screen then the pressure plate and two countersunk screws through both the pressure plate and screen.

It shouldn't be welded or pressed on. Could it be so badly worn that the screw heads are hard to see?

Bob

 

[Hawthicket]

Have you looked in the PTO section of the manuals?

The hub bolts to the flywheel. Then the screen then the pressure plate and two countersunk screws through both the pressure plate and screen.

It shouldn't be welded or pressed on. Could it be so badly worn that the screw heads are hard to see?

Bob

I understand your comments for the newer style clutches with the 2 screws that hold the pressure plate against the flange. It appears from the parts manual the older style clutches used a design where the hub and pressure plate were 1 fixed assembly—no screws to separate. At least that’s how I read the manual and see what is installed on my tractor. I don’t see how to get it off.

 

[bobneumann]

I understand your comments for the newer style clutches with the 2 screws that hold the pressure plate against the flange. It appears from the parts manual the older style clutches used a design where the hub and pressure plate were 1 fixed assembly—no screws to separate. At least that’s how I read the manual and see what is installed on my tractor. I don’t see how to get it off.

If you're talking about a c14 152 clutch, then the pressure plate and the shaft are a single unit. And you'll have to pull them using a puller as a single unit.

Which I presume means threading the bolt most of the way down into the hole and screwing your puller screw up against that bolt head so that the bolt holds still and the shaft and pressure plate slide outward/off.

 

[Hawthicket]

Thanks Bob for your help. This is the clutch setup I have. I did use a wheel puller—but screwed the puller directly over the 3/8 bolt hole —I didn’t reinstall the bolt. Not sure why the bolt should be reinstalled, but will give it a try today. When I used the puller is simply bent the pressure plate, but nothing moved.

 

[Hawthicket]

If you're talking about a c14 152 clutch, then the pressure plate and the shaft are a single unit. And you'll have to pull them using a puller as a single unit.

Which I presume means threading the bolt most of the way down into the hole and screwing your puller screw up against that bolt head so that the bolt holds still and the shaft and pressure plate slide outward/off.

If you're talking about a c14 152 clutch, then the pressure plate and the shaft are a single unit. And you'll have to pull them using a puller as a single unit.

Which I presume means threading the bolt most of the way down into the hole and screwing your puller screw up against that bolt head so that the bolt holds still and the shaft and pressure plate slide outward/off.

Thanks Bob for your help. This is the clutch setup I have. I did use a wheel puller—but screwed the puller directly over the 3/8 bolt hole —I didn’t reinstall the bolt. Not sure why the bolt should be reinstalled, but will give it a try today. When I used the puller is simply bent the pressure plate, but nothing moved.

Bob—I installed the bolt like you said, installed the wheel puller and the clutch came apart almost without a wrench. This was not obvious to me. Thanks for the help. Worked perfectly.

 

[Bob MacGregor]

There should still be a stub shaft bolted onto the flywheel?

 

[Hawthicket]

There should still be a stub shaft bolted onto the flywheel?

Yes. Pressure plate and shaft slid right off. I did not see that setup in the parts diagram!!

 

[Bob MacGregor]

Here is a link to your tractor. Look at page 16 item #38, pages 18, 24, 26-27.

https://www.casecoltingersoll.com/d3/manuals/PartsManuals/Case%20220,%20222,%20442%20Parts%20Manual%20A1123_watermarked.pdf

The latest P/N for a replacement clutch assembly for your tractor is C27150 which is a Kohler mount EZ Adjust clutch. This clutch is expensive and I recommend that you evaluate the tractors overall condition before you spend the money on this clutch at $582 plus shipping. Screen P/N C26758 is also recommended however no longer available.

 

[bobneumann]

Bob—I installed the bolt like you said, installed the wheel puller and the clutch came apart almost without a wrench. This was not obvious to me. Thanks for the help. Worked perfectly.

If you have a local machine shop he could replace just the pressure plate on your existing part. Assuming the rest of your clutch assembly is complete enough.

I hate to see a whole tractor lost to the cost of a new clutch.

 

[Hawthicket]

Here is a link to your tractor. Look at page 16 item #38, pages 18, 24, 26-27.

https://www.casecoltingersoll.com/d3/manuals/PartsManuals/Case%20220,%20222,%20442%20Parts%20Manual%20A1123_watermarked.pdf

The latest P/N for a replacement clutch assembly for your tractor is C27150 which is a Kohler mount EZ Adjust clutch. This clutch is expensive and I recommend that you evaluate the tractors overall condition before you spend the money on this clutch at $582 plus shipping. Screen P/N C26758 is also recommended however no longer available.

Thanks. I have plenty of newer style easy adjust clutches ( used ) that I can install and will. Interesting that I really wanted a 195 with the hydro e25 lift kit package. A 195 came available in my are ( Pittsburgh ) with manual adjust. At the same time a 442 ( first generation) came available with the e25 lift kit package. I read the 442 hydro lift parts could be used on the 195. Trouble is when I got the 442 it was in such good shape there is no way I can part it out. Now I have a 442 that needs alittle work and still need to find a lift package for the recently acquired 195. My family was the original dealer in this area. I get these old ones, fix them and give to family members. Have you ever installed new seals in the flow control valve? The one on the 442 leaks badly. Not even sure if the seal parts are available.

 

[Harry]

Welcome Hawthicket to the CCI forum. Sounds to me like your no stranger to these great machines. My 644lbh came from Pittsburgh Pa where your from and I've have relatives that live in the Pittsburgh area. Glad to have you here and look forward to your posts with pics of your tractors.
Keep the Peace ✌
Harry

 

[Bob MacGregor]

Bear in mind that the hub shafts on Kohlers were originally made of cast iron which in time and use has turned out to be a not good combination with steel bearings that need to be able to move on the shaft as the clutch is engaged/disengaged, new replacement hub shafts are steel. The shift forks have been redesigned to make them more resistant to bending and the cams have also been redesigned to reduce the cracking problem and tolerance problem where the bearing gets loose.
The hub shaft on early 442s was actually a Kohler part and the clutch hub slipped onto it. This clutch configuration was short lived as Case installed their own version of the shim adjust clutch which they changed several more times before settling on one configuration that was used until the EZ adjust clutch was produced and installed on all tractors until the engines were turned around, electric clutches installed and R/H discharge mower decks were then needed. I have number 24 of the first production run of 4018s that were designated as 1989 model year tractors.

 

[chrisprocyk]

The real problem, as far as I know anyway, with the older clutch is no matter how perfect it is - and mine is - if you (when, if you use it as a regular mower) wear out the friction surface they are made of unobtainum.

I really like cutting with my 195 & roller deck but I just don't because of that. And I want to keep it original, and there is an endless succession of $600 Craftsman/Husky/MTD tractors on Craigslist so no sense in risking it. The 195 is not entirely a museum piece, I till with it in the spring and never put the deck on just to prevent temptation.

Sigh, and I can't get tiller blades either so it's narrowed once already. I'm thinking in my old age I might get some stock and just try to make them.

NVM, this seems like some intermediate clutch between my 195 and my 1969 222?? So the "later" disc I guess fits.