[Fireman]

Thanks for the replies and welcome, folks!

I bought the 444 about a week ago. I started to mow with it, then it started raining and had to quit. Just want to bounce a few things off of you guys right out of the gates.

1. The PTO clutch seems like it's either slipping or the belt is loose. I used the clutch adjustment PDF file I found online to work on it, but it didn't seem to help (if I did it right...). I'm gonna try again today.

2. Another issue I'm having is loose steering. By the looks of the parts list (I downloaded the correct list for my serial number already), there are some bushings that may be worn. I've read where the steering wheel is a bear to remove, so I'm thinking about just welding a couple heavy washers to the bottom end of the frame where the steering shaft passes through to tighten things up. I can go back later on and remove those washers and replace the bushings... I just need to use the mower (my yard looks like a jungle).

3. Finally, it seems to have an oil leak. I haven't determined for certain whether it's the hydraulic system or the engine oil pan, but when I do get that figured out... are oil pan gaskets still easy to come by? What about the hydraulic oil cooler behind the grill.. are replacements available?

Thanks again, I really appreciate everyone's hospitality and assistance.

Damon

 

[Hydriv]

Thanks for the replies and welcome, folks!

I bought the 444 about a week ago. I started to mow with it, then it started raining and had to quit. Just want to bounce a few things off of you guys right out of the gates.

1. The PTO clutch seems like it's either slipping or the belt is loose. I used the clutch adjustment PDF file I found online to work on it, but it didn't seem to help (if I did it right...). I'm gonna try again today.
When asking questions about your tractor, it is important to provide the serial number every time so that we can see how your particular tractor was built. Assuming that your front PTO clutch is engaged by a lever on the left side of your dash tower, that lever should move very easily at the start of the push and then quickly become harder and harder and harder to push as you move it toward the front of the tractor. When it is ALMOST to the end it its travel, the hard push should suddenly stop and then the lever should almost pull away from your hand as snaps into the fully engaged position. If you lever is an easy push and you don't feel it snap into the "locked on" spot at the end of the travel, then you don't have the clutch adjusted properly.

2. Another issue I'm having is loose steering. By the looks of the parts list (I downloaded the correct list for my serial number already), there are some bushings that may be worn. I've read where the steering wheel is a bear to remove, so I'm thinking about just welding a couple heavy washers to the bottom end of the frame where the steering shaft passes through to tighten things up. I can go back later on and remove those washers and replace the bushings... I just need to use the mower (my yard looks like a jungle).
Sloppy steering is often caused by worn out rod ends on the drag link and tie rod. The second problem is the shimming of the sector gear as it relates to the pinion gear that is welded to the steering shaft. The Operator's Manual outlines the procedure for adjusting the slack between the pinion and quadrant. Go to our LIbrary under Operator's Manuals and see if you have the one for your tractor. If not, just pick one of the other manuals because all of them have that information.

3. Finally, it seems to have an oil leak. I haven't determined for certain whether it's the hydraulic system or the engine oil pan, but when I do get that figured out... are oil pan gaskets still easy to come by? What about the hydraulic oil cooler behind the grill.. are replacements available?
ALL Kohler parts are easy to come by. Used oil coolers can be found on e-Bay but you must make sure that you get the correct one for your tractor.

Thanks again, I really appreciate everyone's hospitality and assistance.

Damon

 

[Fireman]

Thanks for moving my post to the proper forum, I apologize for improper use of the message boards.

My tractor's serial number is [highlight=#ffff00:1wvs3war]14072843[/highlight:1wvs3war], which I was told was a 1985 model. It has the 'easy adjust' clutch, and the manual shift lever on the left-hand side of the tractor.

After working on the clutch again today, I realized I didn't adjust it properly the first time. I think I'm getting closer to home, but I have a couple questions:

1. The PDF file I read states regarding the two parts into which the shift arm fits "positioned with shorter side up" on the front hub, and "positioned with shorter side down" on the rear hub. What exactly are they talking about? It appears to me that the ears on the hubs aren't on the centerline, I assume that's what they're referring to.

2. I adjusted the clutch again today. The lever bogs the engine down and sparks start to fly out of the clutch hub assembly. I loosened it up, but there's far too much clearance (way out of the 0.002-0.007 spe'c) when I take that tightness out of it.

What the heck am I doing wrong? Or... is there something wrong with the clutch and it all needs to be replaced?

Thanks again for all of your help.

Damon

 

[Fireman]

Forgot something... is there an easy way to tell the front cam from the rear cam? Or does it make a difference which is in the front or rear? Maybe that's my problem. I didn't mark them when I removed them to check the rest of the parts on the shaft. The only part numbers I see on either one are the bearing numbers.

Thanks again.

Damon

 

[Hydriv]

Thanks for moving my post to the proper forum, I apologize for improper use of the message boards.

My tractor's serial number is [highlight=#ffff00:3c86xrup]14072843[/highlight:3c86xrup], which I was told was a 1985 model. It has the 'easy adjust' clutch, and the manual shift lever on the left-hand side of the tractor.

After working on the clutch again today, I realized I didn't adjust it properly the first time. I think I'm getting closer to home, but I have a couple questions:

1. The PDF file I read states regarding the two parts into which the shift arm fits "positioned with shorter side up" on the front hub, and "positioned with shorter side down" on the rear hub. What exactly are they talking about? It appears to me that the ears on the hubs aren't on the centerline, I assume that's what they're referring to.
The two cams are identical. There is no "front" and "rear". They are interchangeable. However. there is a slight offset in the casting where the throwout fork resides and you have to spin one cam so that it is installed the way the PDF explains it. If you just watch the slots where the fork goes as you spin one cam against the other, you should be able to figure it out pretty fast.

2. I adjusted the clutch again today. The lever bogs the engine down and sparks start to fly out of the clutch hub assembly. I loosened it up, but there's far too much clearance (way out of the 0.002-0.007 spe'c) when I take that tightness out of it.
You have an assembly issue and most likely, the fork is hitting up against something. Go over the PDF instructions again. Correct assembly of all the parts is absolutely crucial to making the clutch work properly. Even if you popped $500.00 for a new clutch, you would still have to dismantle it, in order to install it. If you put the new clutch together incorrectly, then you would still have the same problem. It takes a bit of time to understand the instructions but once you do, then the clutch adjustment becomes quite simple.

What the heck am I doing wrong? Or... is there something wrong with the clutch and it all needs to be replaced?

Thanks again for all of your help.

Damon

 

[Rockdog]

Sparks?! I'd take a good look and make sure the screws which hold the clutch plate onto the shaft arent hitting the hub or your clutch disc isnt worn down too thin.

If you're engaging it without the belt installed and the engine is still lugging down there is too much torque through one or both of the cam bearings (reacting through the arm). Make sure nothing is touching anything but the inner race of the cam bearings.

 

[Fireman]

Yea, sparks. And Rockdog is right in the diagnosis. There are 0.050 washers in the exploded view of the parts break down that are missing on the tractor I bought. I'm calling the seller tomorrow with that information. Hopefully he will get me back on the right track, and I can finally use this tractor!!

Damon

 

[Fireman]

I installed the missing spacers and the mower has been cutting like a champ. However, today the outer two blades quit spinning while mowing, so I'm guessing the deck belt has either snapped in two or come off the pulleys. If it needs replaced, how do I find which belt I need? I've poked around online but can't find the deck model number anywhere, and the parts books I have don't list decks.

Thanks for any help you can offer.

Damon

 

[Hydriv]

You will have either a 44 or 48 inch deck on your tractor. It's easy to figure out. Flip it over and measure across the outer blades when they are in line with each other.

In our Tech Library, Service Manuals section, there is a belt guide that will tell you the size of the belt needed for your deck.

In our FAQ's section, there is a document titled "ingersoll Dealers". You can purchase an OEM belt from Brian Hildreth by either phoning him or e-mailing him.


Check those documents out and if you need further help, then just ask.

 

[Fireman]

Thanks. I knew I had a 48" deck, I just didn't know if more than one model of the 48" was made.

I will keep that info in case I need a new belt, I appreciate it!!

Actually, the belt was off the center bottom pulley on the deck. I took the top cover off and reinstalled the belt. Somehow a small piece of tree bark made its way in there, and I think it caused the belt to jump off the pulley.

Thanks again for the help.

Damon

 

[CASE 220/4]

Glad to see that things are starting to work out on your tractor. When it comes time for you to purchase a new belt or two for your machine I encourage you to buy them from the dealer. There are many companies out there that sell off the shelf belts that are the same advertised length as the one you need but the width is different.

This is a picture of exactly what I am talking about. The belt on the left if some off the shelf no name brand that was listed as a compatible replacement for my mower deck. THe belt on the right is the CORRECT belt that I bought from the dealer. Notice the difference in widths? The belt on the left will end up sitting deeper in the pulleys and this causes it to become to long and the tensioner cannot take up all that slack.