I just bought a 444 with a bad engine . The 444 uses a starter generator setup . I bought an engine off of a 224 with the starter alt. setup . How do I rewire the 444 so that I can use the starter alt. setup ? Would I be better to get a complete 224 wiring harness for my 444 ?
444 wiring problems
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I have moved your thread to the main forum (Case Colt Ingersoll Tractors). Once I see that you have found it and posted there, I will delete it from the Help and Feedback forum which is there to deal with problems members may be encountering with the actual site.
It's hard to say whether you would be better off with a harness from a later tractor or not because for all we know, the 444 you own may not have an ammeter. I think that you might want to consider installing the Start/Gen unit onto the newer motor. You will have to use the cowling from the early engine along with the pulley for the belt etc but at least you would not have to alter your wiring harness. I'm sure that one of our members has made this swap so hang in there and let's see what the responses are in the next day or two. :thumbsup:
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Basically the B+ lead off the voltage regulator will go off the ignition wire on the back of the keyswitch.
Before bklunk accepts the advice of anyone, he needs to post the serial number of his tractor so that all of us know which version of the 444 he owns. This is not MTF or some of the other sites out there. Here.... we deal in facts first so that members seeking help don't end up making expensive mistakes or dangerous ones. Right now, he has four wires running to the voltage regulator. He may have a 444 with the GEN light instead of the ammeter. I don't have a crystal ball any longer to tell me which wiring harness he has.
Secondly, if he does have an early Sunset tractor, then there may be MERIT in keeping the wiring system STOCK instead of butchering up a nice collectible tractor just for expediency.
Secondly, if he does have an early Sunset tractor, then there may be MERIT in keeping the wiring system STOCK instead of butchering up a nice collectible tractor just for expediency.
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You're right
If youre going to keep the ammeter or what you have then you would be better off working with the harness you have. I would just make a new harness, its not much more work
If youre going to keep the ammeter or what you have then you would be better off working with the harness you have. I would just make a new harness, its not much more work
I am sorry that I didn't give my serial number . Model 444-77 serial number 9738752 and it has an amp meter . When I bought the engine he gave me the rectifier with it . I'm not very good at wiring so I was hoping there would be a good way to fix my problem, that even I could understand ! Does anybody know where I can get new oil return hoses for my 444 ? Thanks, Bob K.
No need to apologize. You are brand new to this forum and it takes some time to get adjusted.
In looking at the wiring diagram on page 66 of this manual http://www.manuals.casecoltingersoll.co ... marked.pdf
it would appear that you have to do the following.
1. First .... remove the positive cable from the battery and set it in a spot where it cannot touch the battery terminal accidentally. This is a safety procedure.
2. The wire going between the F terminal on the regulator and the F terminal on the Start/ Gen is no longer needed. Disconnect both ends and tape them off.
3. The heavy wire going from the starter solenoid to the A terminal on the Start/ Gen can be relocated to the terminal on the new starter motor.
4. The wire going to the L terminal on the regulator can be removed from that terminal and installed on the B terminal of the regulator. This will put power directly to the B terminal on the key switch and still leave the harness and the fuse intact.
5. The wire going from the underside of the regulator to the solenoid should be disconnected at both ends and taped off.
6. The new-to-you engine will have two wires coming from the stator under the flywheel and into a connector. You need to have the regulator/rectifier that plugs into those wires along with the connector the regulator plugs into. You also need to find a suitable spot to mount that regulator and make sure that the body of the regulator is grounded to the tractor's frame. The red wire exiting the connector must be attached to the "I" or ignition terminal on the key switch, as shown on page 64 of this Parts Manual.
http://www.manuals.casecoltingersoll.co ... marked.pdf
That's as simple as I can make it so you don't have to butcher your existing wiring harness nor do you have to make a new harness. The existing regulator can stay right where it is because it is disconnected from the electrical system and is used as a terminal block to join two wires together.
Welcome to the group. Glad to have you here. Please...... read the STICKY messages at the top of each forum that say "READ ME FIRST BEFORE POSTING" . Those will help you understand what each forum is for. :thumbsup: :trink:
In looking at the wiring diagram on page 66 of this manual http://www.manuals.casecoltingersoll.co ... marked.pdf
it would appear that you have to do the following.
1. First .... remove the positive cable from the battery and set it in a spot where it cannot touch the battery terminal accidentally. This is a safety procedure.
2. The wire going between the F terminal on the regulator and the F terminal on the Start/ Gen is no longer needed. Disconnect both ends and tape them off.
3. The heavy wire going from the starter solenoid to the A terminal on the Start/ Gen can be relocated to the terminal on the new starter motor.
4. The wire going to the L terminal on the regulator can be removed from that terminal and installed on the B terminal of the regulator. This will put power directly to the B terminal on the key switch and still leave the harness and the fuse intact.
5. The wire going from the underside of the regulator to the solenoid should be disconnected at both ends and taped off.
6. The new-to-you engine will have two wires coming from the stator under the flywheel and into a connector. You need to have the regulator/rectifier that plugs into those wires along with the connector the regulator plugs into. You also need to find a suitable spot to mount that regulator and make sure that the body of the regulator is grounded to the tractor's frame. The red wire exiting the connector must be attached to the "I" or ignition terminal on the key switch, as shown on page 64 of this Parts Manual.
http://www.manuals.casecoltingersoll.co ... marked.pdf
That's as simple as I can make it so you don't have to butcher your existing wiring harness nor do you have to make a new harness. The existing regulator can stay right where it is because it is disconnected from the electrical system and is used as a terminal block to join two wires together.
Welcome to the group. Glad to have you here. Please...... read the STICKY messages at the top of each forum that say "READ ME FIRST BEFORE POSTING" . Those will help you understand what each forum is for. :thumbsup: :trink:
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:thumbup: And a good practice to follow whenever you're working on the electrical system. However, to be even safer, remove the NEGATIVE (ground) cable first. Electrically speaking, the results are identical but there is still one difference. When you are removing the positive cable, and the negative cable is still connected, your wrench is live. If you swing it around and the back end touches something ... bad things happen. I've seen it. Don't ask :grin: If you accidentally touch the wrench to something while it is on the negative terminal, nothing happens. Remember: Negative off FIRST, on LAST.Hydriv said:
This is also a good time to clean and inspect both terminals, and while you're at it, inspect the other end of the negative cable too.
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