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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well since there's no snow in sight this year I figured now would be the time to find out what is wrong with the wiring on the 446 #14073738. After the first hour I had the oil tank out :sidelaugh: as I wanted to replace the ammeter too, anyway it's ugly for sure, has been worked on before I could tell by all the tape. After I removed 200 yards of 3M's finest I found all the factory connections are gone (melted/burnt) and what's left is just taped together. My plan is replace all the wiring with new soldered connections and shrink tubing as I go, but the one thing stopping the process is the rectifier wiring, I have the two white wires from the stator and one large yellow wire and one little red wire on the rectifier, can anyone tell me the best way to wire this with-out the factory connection? Thanks John

P.S. I did search this but found nothing that helps me with the yellow / red wires
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
gator_rider2 said:
http://www.manuals.casecoltingersoll.com/ServiceManuals/Electrical%20System%20226,446,448,646,648%20Manual%209-51721_watermarked.pdf

Yellow- start wire at key switch S plugin to solenoid small terminal
Red I (i) Ignition terminal switch to rectifier
On your 446 I ignition terminal could have 3 wires feed off Ignition terminal one hourmeter blue
other coil wire black with white strip + on coil.
Thanks Gator, but I have that part of the wiring. What I'm looking for is at the rectifier which has two wires from it, one is a large yellow wire and one small red which is connected to the two white stator wires thru some type of factory loop connecter with the small red wire some how ends at the coil. Looks like I could just connect the rectifier wires to the two stator wires with a third leg going to the coil, but through I would ask first. I would've bet I'm not the first person on here to find this problem, but maybe I am.
 

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The older tractors don't have a rectifier. They are DC start/gen setups with a reg, like my 190. I have messed with Honda motorcycle rectifiers on occasion. They have four wires or three and a ground. You saying that the one on your tractor has two? Doesn't make sense. If someone who knows more than me hasn't posted by tomorrow night I'll explain what I know about the four wire setups if need be...

I'm also an electrician by trade, we can figure this out with a test light and multimeter if need be.
 

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rob,
The OP has a tractor with an Onan engine in it and start/gens were NEVER used on Onan's. He definitely has an alternator with a stator coil inside the flywheel area that feeds AC voltage to the regulator/rectifier.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
case680rob said:
The older tractors don't have a rectifier. They are DC start/gen setups with a reg, like my 190. I have messed with Honda motorcycle rectifiers on occasion. They have four wires or three and a ground. You saying that the one on your tractor has two? Doesn't make sense. If someone who knows more than me hasn't posted by tomorrow night I'll explain what I know about the four wire setups if need be...

I'm also an electrician by trade, we can figure this out with a test light and multimeter if need be.
Thanks rob,
This 446 is a '84 or '85 if I remember right, been a long 14 hour work day here :crazy: and yes it has only two wires. The wiring diagram shows a connecter from the rectifier with a wire loop on it that plugs into the two wires from the stator. My biggest problem is all of the factory connecters are unusable due to being melted/burnt and some just gone. All of the wiring has been hacked by others over the years and I would like to get it right. I do wiring all the time (hvac trade) this loop connecter has me over a loop, John
 

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John,

The correct wiring diagram for your tractor is found in the Tech Library/Operator's Manuals/Onan Powered tractors/manual 9-9930 - page 17.


As I understand it, you no longer have the plastic plugs and sockets that were part of the OEM wiring harness. The diagram does show a light coloured wire and a dark coloured wire exiting the rectifier. It would appear that the two wires coming from the stator are hooked to the red and yellow wires of the rectifier but the jumper is coming off the red wire of the rectifier and going into the third terminal on the front side of the socket so that it will connect to the red 2 wire in the plug. That wire ends up at the "I" terminal on the ignition switch that has the black wire with white tracer from the coil and the 8 blue wire that feeds the hour meter.

I believe that's pretty much what gator was saying.

To be absolutely sure, we need one of the members that own a mid to late 80's 446, 448 or 226 to pull of their inspection plate and confirm how the plug/socket at the rectifier is actually wired.


Any volunteers? Please !!!!!!!
 

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The rectifier needs 2 white wire from stator at 3 prong connector the side by side.
The third one from connector red from ignition terminal switch that feeds charge voltage back to battery switch on.
Any fourth wire at Rectifier be ground wire to base mound to __ post on battery color should be black no strip.

If there been colors add to harness then go by ends location.

With all connects burn there bad shorts in wiring a harness needs building or purchased.

Short can be in ignition switch best choice for switch is dealer other switches will short meditatively and headlight terminal not there.
 

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The older 446s used a different regulator/rectifier than the newer models and so the wiring connectors are somewhat different. Which regulator you use will dictate what connectors you want. If you already have the newer style regulator (a small device approximately 2" square) then the choice is easy but if you have the old regulator I would set up the wiring for the a new regulator and make an adapter to the old regulator which (someday) will go bad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hydriv said:
John,

The correct wiring diagram for your tractor is found in the Tech Library/Operator's Manuals/Onan Powered tractors/manual 9-9930 - page 17.

As I understand it, you no longer have the plastic plugs and sockets that were part of the OEM wiring harness. The diagram does show a light coloured wire and a dark coloured wire exiting the rectifier. It would appear that the two wires coming from the stator are hooked to the red and yellow wires of the rectifier but the jumper is coming off the red wire of the rectifier and going into the third terminal on the front side of the socket so that it will connect to the red 2 wire in the plug. That wire ends up at the "I" terminal on the ignition switch that has the black wire with white tracer from the coil and the 8 blue wire that feeds the hour meter.

I believe that's pretty much what gator was saying.

To be absolutely sure, we need one of the members that own a mid to late 80's 446, 448 or 226 to pull of their inspection plate and confirm how the plug/socket at the rectifier is actually wired.
Any volunteers? Please !!!!!!!
Thanks guys,
My answer may be in the other garage, after checking the part listings I found that my 224 and the 446 share the same connecter in the wiring harness so I will take a look at how the loop is wired in that connecter and make one up as needed.

Gator, my plan is to rewire this tractor like new, complete harness , new grounds, all soldered, shrink tubing and water proof :fingerscrossed: ditto on the switch, already have that from Brian, even have a set of the most expensive "Glass headlights" ever made.
Thanks again John
 

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John,

I was wondering what you found when looking at the 224. I have 74 446 and am in the same boat right now. I would like to install a newer 2 wire (one yellow and one red) rectifier but have the older 3 prong type. (two from stator and 1 pos from key). I cant find what wires are looped together.

Thanks

Rob
 

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Help guys.... I am in same boat. 2 white wires coming from stator. Then I have one 12g yellow from Reg. And one tiny red wire from Reg. Where do and how do these all tie together.. please... any actual pics wod help also... thanks. I love this forum, and I know someone will be able to chime in.. I hope. Lol. I have looked at schematic but it isn't clear.... thanks in advance guys
 

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So, you have

2 white wires coming from the stator,

2 wires going the rectifier- a yellow and a red one. Ignore the jumper red one for now because you don't have a connector block.

1 of the white wires,, doesn't matter which one, connects to the yellow from the rectifier,

The other white wire, connect it to the red wire coming from the rectifier, and, to that splice, add in a red wire coming from the ignition switch (ignition terminal)

The other thing,, not shown in the pictures or discussed often is proper grounding of the rectifier. It would seem a lot of owners rely on bolting the rectifier to the frame, (which provides the required ground) but, you should also,, connect a ground wire from the bolt that secures the rectifier to the negative side of the battery. When you buy the kit, that little black ground wire is also included in that kit. That way, you have perfect grounding and you don't have to worry about burning out the rectifier because of poor grounding.

That's the way I did mine, when I redid this last winter, All my grounds, are pigtailed to one common ground, which is wire to the negative side of the battery. I didn't rely on grounding to frame,, because those connections do rust after a whiles, causing you umpteen problems.

Audio equipment Cable Gadget Wood Eye glass accessory
 

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I think your right on the way to wire it all up but your soo wrong on grounds... I prefer using a rusty frame and all connections made with blue 3m scotch locks. :raised_hands::eek:k_hand: lmfao. Listen .... I sure appreciate the help!!!! And I was just joking about the way you ground... your alot like me... solder with dual wall shrink wrap with glue and over do it on your grounding.! Cheers!!!
 

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Ohh you just about got me there,

Anyways, not sure if you're doing the complete harness like I did, it's not difficult and here's how I did mine,

Took the old one off and filed it under a G file, because after multiple owners, I'm not sure what was there.

Purchased 10' of properly coded wires (did 3 harnesses with it so far), I love ebay, even the black one with a white dotted line,

Went back to the book, AKA manual, and redid from the manual. Excluding the rusty ground, you'll know your tractor fairly well after doing that, and then like me, you promptly forget all about it because you won't have a reason to tear into it again because it'll just work properly for you.
 

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Ohh you just about got me there
:lol: Me too! I was starting to think he was being serious there for a second.

... and all connections made with blue 3m scotch locks.
Oh man! I know you were joking, but I cringe every time I see those things clamped onto a wire. Especially when folks use them to tap into the rear light harness up under the back of a pick-up truck to add a trailer connector. After a few years of water & road salt getting into those unsealed connections the wiring is often a corroded mess!
 
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