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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, so I did some looking around and didn’t see what I was looking for. Maybe I’m blind. But the 644 I recently picked up has been robbed of its rear pto. So my question is what is the difference between the 400 series and 600 series pto???? I know the 600s are harder to find! And also what is the difference in the different style 3 point hitches? Thanks in advance,
Steve
 

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Steve:
I have both 446 and 646 equipped with PTO's. The valve itself is identical between the models, the piping however is routed differently. You could always use hyd hose instead of the original piping if you can't find a set of 646 pipes. The main difference between the hitches appears to be the shape of the link arms themselves, but again I can't see any reason why a 446 hitch won't fit quite nicely on your 644 and is actually a preferred addition according to some previous posts from members who have done this.

Bob
 

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Steve,
Like Bob indicates,
The rear PTO valve shares the same part number valve wise across several models, of 446's and 644/646's. The plumbing is different, which I'm sure can be done with hoses versus OEM tubes/hoses.

Rear 3 pts,, I'll show you 2 3pts,, the nice shiny one is for a 446. Pay close attention to the top face of the 3pt plate.

On the 446 3 pt, you will not see 2 bolt holes at the top, front of face, to attache the 3 pt. (Those 2 holes are actually, there, but on the short arm at the top, so on a 446, it bolts down from the top)

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The next picture, is a 3pt I took off a 648, which shares the same attachments as the 646/644.

Ignore the poor quality, but again watch for the top attachment,, on it, you'll notice 2 at the top, but on the face of the mounting plate,, versus the 446 one. Not having done it,, I think, the 446 one could be modified to mount in the similar fashion, but again, I'm not saying that with solid knowledge. (IE, by drilling 2 holes on the front of the plate, at the top section)
 

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Ok, a few pictures. Both of these tractors are not restored, so don't worry if they are a little dirty! This is a 446, 1st picture show detail of the hitch mounting, picture 2 shows upper mounting flange with 2 upper bolts,picture 3 shows detail of the pto valve mounting
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Next up is a 646 setup, pictures 1 and 2 show detail of hitch mount and picture 3 shows pto valve mounting. As you may notice this tractor has 16" turf tires on it now, so after modifying a pair of 446 fenders, I am in the process of remounting the pto valve and making up new hoses. This is the correct position for the valve however. As Lionel stated it should be pretty easy to drill the 2 top holes into a 446 hitch plate to make it fit.
 

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'68 - Case 155, '73 - 646a
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Well, I HAVE put a 4xx 3 point on a 64x and its NOT as simple as drilling a couple of holes. the 64x tractors FRAME is taller at the rear than a 4xx. Think About it BOTH use same rear end, one has 16 inch rims and tires and the other uses only 15 inch rims and tires.

Because the 64x frame is taller at the rear the top lip of the 4xx 3 - point hitch hits, keep in mind the hitch ALSO bolts onto the rear end where the tongue - hitch bolts on AND, there is a hole in the 3 point backing plate to allow access to the Transmission's fill - check plug..AND, the bolt holes in that top flange are in different spots so those don't match either.

In my case what I wound up doing was raising the entire backing plate UP so that the LIP of the 4xx 3 - point is above the frame in the 64x and I added a plate BELOW the backing place for a place to install the tongue - hitch bolts. the biggest PITA was to bore a new hole for the oil check - fill plug. I had to use an 1 1/2 inch hole saw..

I'll have to take some pictures tonight. I don't have anything in my library show that very well.
All I have is a shot looking down behind the seat at the top left side of the 3 point and it kind of shows the mis-alignment of the bolts. What I have is a steel spacer bolted onto the underside of the LIP so that it is physically resting on the 64x frame.
 

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There is a couple of inches difference between the frame heights of the tractors and a corresponding difference in the height of the hitch mounting plates. So the method used by sdunt is probably the "easyist way"(maybe not really so easy but doable) At any rate it has been established that the 446 hitch will fit with a few modifications, so that is a viable option if the OEM hitch is not easily available.
 

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That's part of the hitch allright, so can't do that and also can't drill the 2 upper holes either because of the couple inches of height diff on the mounting plates. Not enough material there. See, I learned something today, so will file that away in memory. But at my age,that may not be for long!:grin:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thank you all for the replies and pictures! I believe I have located a rear pto and 3 point hitch specifically for the 600 series. Now just saving my pennies :thumbup:
 

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I want to finish off this thread for future reference (since I took the pictures anyway)..

1st off this is a photo of an 'ingersoll' HH 34 - 3 point hitch on the left, and a Case H/J 26 - 3 point on the right.. The HH 34 fits ALLLL of the tractors, notice that it is TALLER than the H/J 26. The H/J 26 ONLY fits on the 44x tractors and NOT on the loaders, 64x's..
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The problem with putting an H/J 26 onto a loader 64x is that the frame on the loaders at the rear end is taller and the upper lip - flange of the 3 point backing plate sits below the top of the frame.

What I did to put an H/J 26 'type' 3 point on a 646 was to raise the entire mount up so the top flange can stick over the top of the frame, Drilled holes to match the loaders mounting holes and drilled a new hole for the Oil fill - check plug. Finally, I added a bracket below the 3-point assembly so I can bolt it to the tongue - hitch bolts.

I say H/J 26 type hitch because my hitch was HOME MADE. .This homemade one was CHEAP so I did feel bad about hacking it up a little. The home made 3 point is also different from an H/J 26 in that the hydraulic cylinder is on the RIGHT side and it has a tongue - hitch welded to it.

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I attempted to point out SOME of the changes I had to make with the white writing on the picture. If you look at the UPPER left corner of that picture you can kind of get an ideal of just how high I raised the hitch, its about 3 inches above where it would be if this were a 4xx tractor. Coming down the picture from the upper right, the bolt I circled is 1 of 2 newly drilled 1/2 holes that align with the OEM attachment points on the loaders. Below that on the same side, the Original hole for a bolt into the tongue - hitch mount (on a 44x) , is hiding behind the hose, and the NEW location is below the hitch on a new plate that I added to the hitch. (I have a picture of that later.)

On the right side of the photo the white is pointing out how far the Oil Fill - Check hole had to be moved down. And YES there is an elbow and 'riser' pipe in there on Purpose.. I run an entire gallon of gear oil in my rear end to make sure the axles are bathed in oil, and that length of pipe lets me check the level and also over fill it.. Again this is a LOADER and you can not access the transmission bolts with out taking the seat and gas tank off.

Here is the bracket I ADDED to the bottom of the 3 point mounting plate:
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Those 2 bolts are in the rear end casting where the tongue - hitch would normally be bolted on. To 'orient' yourself the 2 holes just to the left of the white box are where a sleeve hitch would bolt on...

All model of the 3 points are designed to bolt on to where the tongue - hitch would normally be and then the hitch is added back on after the 3 point is installed. This Home made hitch has a Tongue welded to it so not bolt on hitch needed :)

Now, some explaining.. This photo is the upper right side looking between the 3 point's backing plate on the left and the tractor in the right, the pecky upper flange of the H/J 26 - 3 point mount in the middle
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And YES the 3 point mounting plate is spaced out away from the tractor, at the TOP. This is necessary because if you look at the previous photo you will see that there is a flange - lip on the BOTTOM of the H/J 26 mounting plate. That flange - lip normally sits BELOW the transmission.. When I raised the hitch UP, that flange now hits the transmission casting..

I 'solved' that on the lower end by welding the bracket to the edge of the flange so it sits flush with the rear end casting. At the top, its not quite sooo easy.. What I did was figure out how much thickness I needed to fill in from the top flange down to the frame and I added scrap metal to under the top flange, such that the entire thing is resting on the frame. Not ideal, but unless I find an HH-34 for a Junk price some day, this is it.. ( I have a 300 pound weight box hanging off this 3 point 90% of the time..) https://casecoltingersoll.com/showt...ox-on-3-point-on-646-loader-with-custom-hitch

(The silver stuff in that last photo is aluminum duct sealing tape. On my 646 there is a 1/16 inch gap between the rear seat mount and the edge of the frame.. IMO, any rain, snow, Sh(*& that gets back there is going to get down inside and ON TOP of the transmission.. That was my method of weatherproofing - sealing that area..

So, YES, you CAN put a 44x 3 point on a 64x loader, but it WILL require modifications.. Might almost weld one up yourself to the correct dimensions.. The arms and other parts needed to build one are readily available.. for example the arms come pre-made: https://www.compactractorparts.com/tractor-parts/hitch-kits/lower-lift-arm-0

Or you can Order a partial kit: https://www.compactractorparts.com/tractor-parts/hitch-kits

The dimensions for the 4xx hitches are in the plans section of this site: https://manuals.casecoltingersoll.com/FAQ/3pointcomplete2.pdf

IMO the drawings make it look too complicated.. I would not bend the backing plate to make the flanges.. I would simply weld angle iron to a flat plate instead of making the bends.

(may 2020 edits - since I made up this photo. Will add it here.)
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I would SERIOUSLY take a look at how the HH-34 hitch is built, because the way they changed where pivot points of the arms attach, it makes the anti-sway setup amazingly simple..
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks all for the info and pictures! I’m pretty handy with fabrication and know I could make a 400 series hitch fit. Still going to try and get a 600 series hitch first. I do have a welder friend who could easily help me fab up a 3 point. Thank you sdunt for posting the links for the partial kits. If I don’t have luck locating a 600 series 3 point I may fab one up!
 
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