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646 Power Steering Alternative

3K views 16 replies 8 participants last post by  Nobrand 
#1 ·
Has anyone put one of these inline with the steering shaft in order to gain mechanical advantage since the diameter of the actual steering wheel is limited by the seat location?


I'm thinking half the effort (using the gear reduction direction) would make it much easier to steer.

--Ken
 
#5 ·
Does anyone remember what the outcome was good or bad? I'm sure mine will be much easier to steer as soon as the backhoe takes some weight off the front but I wouldn't mind reducing the steering effort even more so you could use a spinner on it.
 
#9 ·
As I recall good results, just more turns of the wheel to get from stop to stop as expected ;)

You could also add the "Poor Man's Power steering". It is a couple hardened washers and roller bearing added between the bottom of the axle and spindles. Here's a quick search results. Don't forget to measure your spindle diameter to get the correct washers and bearings.


Cheers,
Gordy
 
#7 ·
I think Grummy found the steering quickener to be beneficial but he did have to make some modifications to make it work. It’s worth noting that he installed the quickener on a 448, not a front loader model. So, while I’m sure there would be some benefit to one of these on your 646, it may not improve the steering as dramatically as you think especially with a heavy load in the bucket. Perhaps one of our more experienced 600 series owners will offer their thoughts.
 
#10 ·
Well, this 600 owner fabricated an entire power steering subsystem on my '73 646 and I love it. But I also run a machine shop in my garage..

Since then I have seen a 646 for sale where someone took the parts from a 4020ps and fit them onto a 646. I never personally saw that tractor, but that would be a possible route. My hesitation with converting the 646 steering to hydraulic power is the connection of the top arm to the left hand steering spindle:
122790

The 644 - 646 has a SINGLE key way to attach the arm to the spindle. When Case went to Power steering on the 648, they changed that joint to the Multi splined joint for more strength.

IMO a hydraulic cylinder attached to the arm on a 646 is going to work that joint loose over time. A large part of the engineering I went through was to apply the Hydraulic power to the Tie rods instead: Power Steering Added to 646a

A mechanical quickener should work OK for the loaders because it does not move as frequently or with as much force as the hydraulic cylinder. With PS you tend to correct the direction you are steering more often and its not a 'ride' the steering to one side that you do with manual steering.

New ball ends - Heim joints and needle bearings on the spindles , and a general steering system overhaul will also help:

I'm not sure with wider front tires on a NON PS machine if it would be easier or harder to steer. In theory its the same amount of weight spread on a wider area, but its also a wider area. And the swap does take a little engineering on the 646's: Wider front tires on 646 - 648 tires on 646

Perhaps one of our more experienced 600 series owners will offer their thoughts.
 
#11 ·
Sounds like the poor mans thrust bearings is a great (and cheap and easy) start and then i can go from there. Still think the 2-1 ratio of the 'quickener' will improve things too. This 646 came as somewhat of a basket case so I'm slowly putting it back together into a complete and useful unit. I appreciate all the feedback. I'll post some pics after I'm home later.
 
#16 ·
i am assuming you are referring to how to get the Arm on the top of the left hand spindle OFF. Of course lots of penetrating oil. Also assume you dropped the axle to make it easier to work on , but if not still can do. If I recall I pried it apart mainly. Once I had the top bolt off, I used pry bars to lift the arm up and also pried on the bottom side to pull the spindle down.

you could also put a jack under the axle and with a BRASS punch try driving the spindle down. IMO in that case I would probably also screw a short bolt into the hole in the top to protect the threads and use brass drift to pound on the bolt head.
 
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