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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I tried to eyeball the ball joint adjustment on my 7020 today. Tore it all apart, shortened the ball joint, put it back together, jumped on, put it in drive, went backwards...

Then put it in reverse and went backwards even faster!

Is there any documentation on how long the ball joint section is supposed to be? I am tired of this trial and error.

Thanks!
 

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I'm not aware of anything but then again, finding manuals for the Ingersoll 6000/7000 Series isn't easy because not that many were made. You could call Brian and ask him if he has a Service Bulletin that would help.
 

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I always adjust reverse on my 646-78 put forward and reverse lever in reverse then crawl under right side just ahead rear tire to so see travel spool in valve from under tractor I pull down on pedal hard and adjust ball joint until just move pedal up as I hold down on pedal. another thing I use a long pry bar on linkage pull pedal down then pry spool into valve bank that give some ideal how many thread you need turn out to make linkage longer so spool bottom into valve bank.

If make above adjustment Forward be ok as long there no slack in linkage.
 

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Hops_Farmer said:
I tried to eyeball the ball joint adjustment on my 7020 today. Tore it all apart, shortened the ball joint, put it back together, jumped on, put it in drive, went backwards...

Then put it in reverse and went backwards even faster!

Is there any documentation on how long the ball joint section is supposed to be? I am tired of this trial and error.

Thanks!
Hops,
What do you mean by "tore it all apart"?
The 6xx and 6xxx loaders can be adjusted without removing anything. We just use two (short) 5/16" open end wrenches to loosen the nut and adjust the link. This is a shot of a 646 Nutcase2 posted not long ago.



What is blocking your access to this area? I know the 7020 has some additional hardware for the Hilliard front drive, but I haven't found any photos showing the arrangement.

Also, I believe you have a later unit 7020 (pin 17193801 and after). This changed the travel pedal from a solid piece travel control pedal (item 6), to a travel control pedal (30) and travel rod (36) connected by the travel pedal link (32). This change added more wear points to the travel linkage. Have you inspected these items for excessive wear?

Here is the 7020 Travel Control Linkage:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The good news is I think I have it adjusted properly now. It's almost like I have a new tractor. I wouldn't say I have it dialed in 100%, but it is sooooo much better. When I go in reverse, it really seems to hook up to the ground and is a bit abrupt. Forward is perfect and a great speed in high gear.

By tore it all apart I took the ball all the way out of the valve and the banana plate each time I adjusted it. I would count the threads each time I made an adjustment, reinstall, and try again. I ended up shortening it almost all the way so that only 3 threads were showing. The tools I have were the limiting factor for me. My wrenches were too long, there were too many hoses, the bar that the travel pedal is attached to was in the way. If I ever need to do this again I am going to buy a cheap wrench and cut that sucker down to the perfect length so I don't have to do it the way I did it. The 7020 travel valve is covered by the banana plate more than in the picture you've got. Not by much, but by enough to make things tight. There are also some micro switches down there that are a PITA. I disconnected the wires to them, and that just left 4 sharp metal tines for me to skewer my hand on when the wrench slipped. And don't even get me going on those cotter pins. The one that holds the shoulder bushing on, you have to install blind!

For the record,I am cheap, I have huge ideas, I am not very mechanically inclined and I often don't have the right tools.

But it's fun to try!
 

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Since this is a common adjustment item, it is worth keeping an eye out at rummage sales and picking up some cheap open end wrenches that can be cut down or bent to make the job easier.

The way the linkage is designed, pedal response between Forward and Reverse is not equal. I have noticed that even when I get the link adjusted, Forward is smoother than Reverse. Reverse is a little "touchy".
 
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