A couple Case 120 questions

Brad Gyde said:

So tonight was the night I decided to start playing with my 120 and as I worked, I cam up with a few things made me scratch my head..

First thing being does anyone know what the front tires were originally? Mine has 4.00/4.80-8 Carlisle "saw tread" on the front. I'm assuming the size is right, but are they the correct tread for the front?

The parts manual is unclear on the issue of tread pattern but the size is shown. Off hand, I'd say that the saw tooth pattern is "period correct" and that's all that matters in a restoration. The factory did not use the exact same tread pattern for all models in a given year. I have two models of 1966 Colts with original tires on them to the best of my knowledge and they are different from one another.

Next question is I need to clean the fuel tank out (and likely patch the hole in the bottom LOL).. what is the least labor intensive way to do so? I've used the diesel fuel and rocks/nuts/bolts trick a time or 3, but it never seems to work out all that great.

You can take the tank to a rad shop and they will boil it clean. However, I don't know if that will remove the rust. Consult the local rad shop. Here are some links on the topic. Read them. They will help you decide on what course of action is best for you.

http://www.motorcycleanchor.com/motorcy ... krust.html

http://www.instructables.com/id/Electro ... le-Gas-Ta/

Third question would be how deep into the engine should I go? I'm planning on trying to fire it tomorrow (err, today..) I know I'll have to clean the carb and whatnot (likely new points and so on), but say it runs and don't seem to smoke and no abnormal noises.. Should I still open it up and give it some rings and a valve job? I want to do it right, so I'm betting I should, but figured I'd ask for a few opinions.

I would begin by removing the spark plug and then rotate the engine by hand for a few full rotations by gripping the PTO clutch. If the engine turns freely with no hard spots, then I would clean and gap the plug before putting it back in. Of course, I would make sure that the engine has oil in the crankcase at an adequate level. With the tractor hooked to booster cables from a car or truck battery, I would see if the starter/generator would spin the engine over. Then, while the engine is spinning, I would give it a short shot of Quick Start into the open carb throat (air filter removed) to see if it will fire once or twice. If no fire, then I would check the points to make sure they were opening and closing, that they were clean and properly gapped. Then I would try the ether test again. I would not worry about doing anything with the carb until I had the ignition issues solved. Once I got the engine to run using ether or an alternative, then I would remove the carb, dismantle it totally and soak it for a couple of days in proper carb cleaner. Wash it in solvent,to remove the carb cleaner, use compressed air to blow out all passage ways, perhaps chase some of those passage ways with fine wire, blow them out again and then put the carb back together.

At that point, I would use the spare gas tank I have to gravity feed fuel into the carb after setting the float level and putting the carb back on the engine. If no flooding occurred, then I would try to start the engine. It should at least run now that the ignition issues have been corrected and some fine tuning of the needle screws may be necessary to smooth it out. It is quite normal for a Kohler to smoke a bit when first started but that should clear up and go away as the engine comes up to temperature. The colour of any continuing smoke is a clue to what's wrong. Black smoke indicates a rich fuel mixture but blue smoke indicates oil being burnt. A leak-down test will tell you a lot about the condition of the rings and valves once you have reached this stage. If the engine runs well, does not smoke badly, makes no nasty noises, then you could stop there if all you intend to do with the tractor is show it. If you intend to parade it, then pulling the head, de-carbonizing the combustion chamber, setting the valve lash etc are all good moves. If the leak-down test does not show any problems with the rings or valves, then leave the engine alone.

Thanks in advance (and I'm sure I'll have more to ask tomorrow..)

Brad

Click to expand...

Brad Gyde said:

Thank you so far guys..

I have some work related duties this late morning but then I'll get some shop time this afternoon (seein how the war dept. stayed home this weekend :lol: )

After lookin at the links there, I may look into the por15 route.. looks kinda like everything I need would come in one box to fix my tank issues.. and I kinda like that.. I believe my local paint supply store sells por15 products, so another bonus.

As for the engine, I know it turns freely.. I played with that last night. I'm gonna put a "temporary" muffler on it, as I know the one and only time I fired it it was louder than I care to hear (and I don't hear none too good for my age LOL)

Checking the oil made me think too.. I see where I add, but instead of a dipstick (like my 110 Deere has) it seems to just have a pipe plug. I've never pulled the plug, but is there a dipstick hooked to the plug then? If not, how do I know how much is enough? The more I think about it, I kinda wish the Deere just had a plug too though :lol: That darn dipstick don't like to stay in place.

When we talked on the phone, I told you that we had an extensive library of manuals right on this site. You have been logged onto the forum many times since joining so I don't understand why you are asking this question when the answer can be found easily by you on page 10 of the parts manual. It's not that I object to being asked questions by members because I do like to help others out. However, some questions can be answered just by YOU looking in the Library first. If you can't find the answer, then ask the question. I just want to see members exercise a bit of self-help first. :sidelaugh: :sidelaugh: Click on the link below and give it some time to open for you. :thumbsup:

http://www.manuals.casecoltingersoll.co ... marked.pdf

Front tires.. well.. one was bad.. very bad.. the other not too bad.. But I got mighty lucky.. a while back I ended up with a brand new tire from a farm sale or something, and this never happens, but it was the proper size and A MATCH!! I guess a blind squirrel does find a nut every now and then.

I'm sure more of my lack of knowledge will shine through after a while.. Thanks for the help so far.

Brad

Click to expand...