If you have been checking out our Library, then you should know that there are several Kohler manuals in the Service Manual section. Lots of good information there.Brad Gyde said:So tonight was the night I decided to start playing with my 120 and as I worked, I cam up with a few things made me scratch my head..
First thing being does anyone know what the front tires were originally? Mine has 4.00/4.80-8 Carlisle "saw tread" on the front. I'm assuming the size is right, but are they the correct tread for the front?
The parts manual is unclear on the issue of tread pattern but the size is shown. Off hand, I'd say that the saw tooth pattern is "period correct" and that's all that matters in a restoration. The factory did not use the exact same tread pattern for all models in a given year. I have two models of 1966 Colts with original tires on them to the best of my knowledge and they are different from one another.
Next question is I need to clean the fuel tank out (and likely patch the hole in the bottom LOL).. what is the least labor intensive way to do so? I've used the diesel fuel and rocks/nuts/bolts trick a time or 3, but it never seems to work out all that great.
You can take the tank to a rad shop and they will boil it clean. However, I don't know if that will remove the rust. Consult the local rad shop. Here are some links on the topic. Read them. They will help you decide on what course of action is best for you.
http://www.motorcycleanchor.com/motorcy ... krust.html
http://www.instructables.com/id/Electro ... le-Gas-Ta/
Third question would be how deep into the engine should I go? I'm planning on trying to fire it tomorrow (err, today..) I know I'll have to clean the carb and whatnot (likely new points and so on), but say it runs and don't seem to smoke and no abnormal noises.. Should I still open it up and give it some rings and a valve job? I want to do it right, so I'm betting I should, but figured I'd ask for a few opinions.
I would begin by removing the spark plug and then rotate the engine by hand for a few full rotations by gripping the PTO clutch. If the engine turns freely with no hard spots, then I would clean and gap the plug before putting it back in. Of course, I would make sure that the engine has oil in the crankcase at an adequate level. With the tractor hooked to booster cables from a car or truck battery, I would see if the starter/generator would spin the engine over. Then, while the engine is spinning, I would give it a short shot of Quick Start into the open carb throat (air filter removed) to see if it will fire once or twice. If no fire, then I would check the points to make sure they were opening and closing, that they were clean and properly gapped. Then I would try the ether test again. I would not worry about doing anything with the carb until I had the ignition issues solved. Once I got the engine to run using ether or an alternative, then I would remove the carb, dismantle it totally and soak it for a couple of days in proper carb cleaner. Wash it in solvent,to remove the carb cleaner, use compressed air to blow out all passage ways, perhaps chase some of those passage ways with fine wire, blow them out again and then put the carb back together.
At that point, I would use the spare gas tank I have to gravity feed fuel into the carb after setting the float level and putting the carb back on the engine. If no flooding occurred, then I would try to start the engine. It should at least run now that the ignition issues have been corrected and some fine tuning of the needle screws may be necessary to smooth it out. It is quite normal for a Kohler to smoke a bit when first started but that should clear up and go away as the engine comes up to temperature. The colour of any continuing smoke is a clue to what's wrong. Black smoke indicates a rich fuel mixture but blue smoke indicates oil being burnt. A leak-down test will tell you a lot about the condition of the rings and valves once you have reached this stage. If the engine runs well, does not smoke badly, makes no nasty noises, then you could stop there if all you intend to do with the tractor is show it. If you intend to parade it, then pulling the head, de-carbonizing the combustion chamber, setting the valve lash etc are all good moves. If the leak-down test does not show any problems with the rings or valves, then leave the engine alone.
Thanks in advance (and I'm sure I'll have more to ask tomorrow..)