[CASE 220/4]

I have a chance to buy a holding valve setup for my 77 446. The seller has two different styles. My question is what style is superior over the other and why did C/I change the design? Here is a picture of what the seller has for sale. Which one would be a farily easy bolt in project where I do not have to either rebend lines or buy new ones

 

[unclecake]

He striped off everything he cold from the TCV! With that being said, is the rectangle holding valve from a tractor with the shorter frame like yours?

 

[tanandorange]

Hi, Brad.
I don't believe either design is superior. The holding valve was likely moved to the TCV to reduce assembly steps on the line. In other words, it was probably cheaper to have the TCV supplier make it part of that valve than to pay someone to install an extra item and plumbing on the assembly line. If the add-on kit has the proper lines for a short-frame 446 I would use it, as using the later valve will require moving the TCV back and modifying lines.
John

 

[tanandorange]

Brad, upon looking at the picture a second time, it appears that the longer of the two lines from the TCV to the holding valve is missing. you might want to contact the seller and ask if he still has it before buying.
John

 

[Hydriv]

I agree with both replies.


There was no need to remove the fittings from the integrated valve. That's just stupid and short-sighted.

Either type will do the job equally as well.

He is missing one of the lines to the holding valve kit but the most important one is there...which is the long one that does a 180. That valve mounts to the motor using the fitting on the lower left side. The long line screws on the fitting on the top left and then onto the other port on the motor.

The other fitting appears to be totally wrong for this valve because it has a 90 degree fitting on it. I suspect that this was off of the combo travel/lift/holding valve above.

I would value the bottom holding valve at $100.00 because of the missing lines. The combo valve without the fittings and two motor lines is worth $125.00.

Stupid people should not be rewarded for their stupidity. If you don't know how to part out a tractor, then don't part it out.

 

[unclecake]

I saw that 90 deg fitting also. I have seen the newer TCV, like a 3014, have the 90 on it.

I think that I have both types that would work on your tractor and they are complete. If you are interested, just send me a private message and I will see what I have and get some pictures and prices for you.

-Justin

 

[CASE 220/4]

The seller says that it came out of this tractor pictured below. he bought it as a parts tractor. I just dont want to buy a holding valve that is missing shit and now I have to look for lines just to install it. What is in the first picture is what he has. Nothing more.
You can see the add on holding valve still on the tractor in the picture.

 

[Hydriv]

Is he telling you that both valves came from that one tractor?

If so, that's bizarre. Why would someone put a holding valve kit on tractor that already came with a built-in holding valve?

And if both valves did come from that tractor, then where are all the fittings and steel lines that are missing?

 

[tanandorange]

:wtf: :headscratcher:

 

[CASE 220/4]

The older stlye came from the tractor in the picture he said. The other one was most likely bought and then not needed. Im still in contact with him about this. He said he has the missing line but it is broken. Im still doing some research and waying out my options here

 

[Hydriv]

First of all, that tractor he parted out is a long wheelbase model. Not sure if you have 46 or 48" wheelbase. You cannot BUY the lines from Ingersoll any more. They are made from unobtainium.

This is not a valve for you.

It would be better for you to buy the combo valve, wait until the nice weather comes and then install it.

I haven't done one but those who have say that it isn't a big deal to do.

But........don't forget that Justin has both styles. Whether he has a kit with the correct lines or not is something that needs to be determined. However, if he has a complete combo valve with all the fittings on it, then I'd choose that.

 

[tanandorange]

Just for ease of installation (a true bolt-on) if Justin has the early style kit with the correct lines for a short-wheelbase tractor I would go that route. JMHO, John

 

[CASE 220/4]

Just for ease of installation (a true bolt-on) if Justin has the early style kit with the correct lines for a short-wheelbase tractor I would go that route. JMHO, John

Thanks John, Im still trying to decide what I want to to. Im waiting on Justin to get back to me about what he may have. Id like to do a workshop thread about this upgrade come summer time.

 

[CASE 220/4]

Just for shits and giggles, I went down stairs and took a few pics of the control valve in the 1977 446 (dirty one) and the control valve in my 1986 220(clean one)

 

[CASE 220/4]

 

[Hydriv]

As you know, you have the incorporated holding valve on your 222 and you can clearly see the 90 degree fittings and short lines that I referred to in a previous post.

Your 446. is a short w/b model. If you bought that combo valve, it would appear that you could use the lines and fittings you have if you bent them a bit to shorten them once the newer valve is installed.

You could fill them with silica sand, warm them to a dull cherry red and then gently tweak them into position. Wash them out thoroughly and blow dry once you have them bent.

Grummy is the guy to talk to because he has done this.

 

[walter kern]

something i didn't count on when i changed my travel valve to one with built in hold was that when i tried to loosen the tube nut ,the tube twisted, the nut was frozen to the tube. Then i remembered , i had read about a guy (on the other site) was going to crawl under his tractor with a hack saw to change his valve. this problem must happen often, i used rubber hoses, another learning experience.

 

[Caseman2]

I did two of these by swapping out the tcv with the newer style with the holding valve, but on both of mine I drilled the mounting holes about 1" (or 3/4" - I don't recall) further back in the frame for mounting.

Notice on Case 220/4's 446 (compare to his 220) the two 90 degree fittings had to come off the hydraulic motor so straight fittings could go in - the top one would not clear the frame so I turned it downward (to keep shavings from entering the motor) and just cut it off then turned it out. Besides that it was a straightforward upgrade.

But I agree with Tom - without the correct lines these are not worth as much - there are to many reputable sellers on ebay that sell these complete with lines to mess with these.