ADVISE ON PTO BACK PLATE 444
444 SER. 9635507
Need advise on how to get pto back plate off. I have no trouble with the newer ones, but this one has me puzzeled on how to get off. It looks like it rides on a key way but that is shot and gone. i have tried a puller with no luck getting it to move, i didn't put much torque on puller .
here a pic of it.
thanks
allen
Need advise on how to get pto back plate off. I have no trouble with the newer ones, but this one has me puzzeled on how to get off. It looks like it rides on a key way but that is shot and gone. i have tried a puller with no luck getting it to move, i didn't put much torque on puller .
here a pic of it.
thanks
allen
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
It looks like the key is no longer in the keyway and it has now jammed the peice tighter on the shaft. Are you trying to salvage these pieces to reuse them? They look rough from the pic but I need a bigger image with more detail to get a better idea of the condition of the parts. Try some heat on it and see if you can get it to move at least
Is this on a Kohler engine?
Looks like a shade tree machine job. If it was a stock Kohler clutch hub, the disc would have two flat head screws visable and the disc would be sitting farther away from the grass screen. Obviously the hub and disc are trash so I wouldn't be concerned as to how you remove it as long as you don't do any damage to the engine and hub mounting bolt holes in the flywheel.
Bob MacGregor in CT :mrgreen: :mowlawn:
Looks like a shade tree machine job. If it was a stock Kohler clutch hub, the disc would have two flat head screws visable and the disc would be sitting farther away from the grass screen. Obviously the hub and disc are trash so I wouldn't be concerned as to how you remove it as long as you don't do any damage to the engine and hub mounting bolt holes in the flywheel.
Bob MacGregor in CT :mrgreen: :mowlawn:
:goodpost: :goodpost:
I agree with Bob totally. You own one of the first 444's. Most likely a PK and there were two clutches used back then that preceded the EZ adjust model. I would use either a SawZall type of repro saw or a cut-off disc on an angle grinder to take that shaft off as close to the hub as possible. Then I would switch to a grinding disc on the angle grinder and grind the rest of the shaft down to where it is flush with the hub. A simple 2-jaw puller should be able to tug the hub off the shaft and then you can get access to the retaining screws that hold the stub shaft onto the flywheel. These are often best removed by using an impact driver with a socket/bit that fits the retaining screws snugly. Usually, one solid smack with a 2 LB sledge on the impact driver will loosen the screws enough for you to use other tools to finish the job. I would then look for a good, used EZ clutch on e-Bay for around $150.00 or so. Buy it, get it home, take it apart and inspect it carefully. E-mail the Seller using the e-Bay e-mail system before bidding on it. Get him to state that this is a good clutch that is in WORKING CONDITION. Then.....e-Bay will stand behind you if he lies about the condition.
I agree with Bob totally. You own one of the first 444's. Most likely a PK and there were two clutches used back then that preceded the EZ adjust model. I would use either a SawZall type of repro saw or a cut-off disc on an angle grinder to take that shaft off as close to the hub as possible. Then I would switch to a grinding disc on the angle grinder and grind the rest of the shaft down to where it is flush with the hub. A simple 2-jaw puller should be able to tug the hub off the shaft and then you can get access to the retaining screws that hold the stub shaft onto the flywheel. These are often best removed by using an impact driver with a socket/bit that fits the retaining screws snugly. Usually, one solid smack with a 2 LB sledge on the impact driver will loosen the screws enough for you to use other tools to finish the job. I would then look for a good, used EZ clutch on e-Bay for around $150.00 or so. Buy it, get it home, take it apart and inspect it carefully. E-mail the Seller using the e-Bay e-mail system before bidding on it. Get him to state that this is a good clutch that is in WORKING CONDITION. Then.....e-Bay will stand behind you if he lies about the condition.
ok. yes kohler motor.
i will wait for my son to come back to see what he wants to do with it.
See it brought it wedsday and we pick it up today and buyer said bolt worked out the front of clutch into the cooler which has a hole in it, so we are going to need a cooler for it. He started out buying it for $300.00 and then today got the owner down to $200. because of not knowing what is wrong with pto and needing a cooler for it. the po brought it brand new and had all the paper work and manuals for it to. I told son to just replace pto with the ezclutch. i just took and rigged up a cooler off a 222 to just hook up so we could get it running. crank awhile but started and runs good. will wait to see what son wants to do. i know he's going to sell it.
i will wait for my son to come back to see what he wants to do with it.
See it brought it wedsday and we pick it up today and buyer said bolt worked out the front of clutch into the cooler which has a hole in it, so we are going to need a cooler for it. He started out buying it for $300.00 and then today got the owner down to $200. because of not knowing what is wrong with pto and needing a cooler for it. the po brought it brand new and had all the paper work and manuals for it to. I told son to just replace pto with the ezclutch. i just took and rigged up a cooler off a 222 to just hook up so we could get it running. crank awhile but started and runs good. will wait to see what son wants to do. i know he's going to sell it.
Before you do all that grinding and all that stuff, squirt some penetrating oil in to the front hole, turn the engine over to spread it around, thread a bolt in to the treaded hole in front of the PTO and use a puller to get it off the stub shaft, the other thing you can do is take two square screwdrivers 180 degrees apart on the back side of the clutch plate and pry the clutch shaft from the clutch stub, if that doesn't work, take a square chisel and drive it in behind the clutch plate and the clutch stub and it will start moving.
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Well i got the back plate and shaft off. The back plate was broken off from shaft.I found the clutch to be #14152. The cooler has a pin hole in it to. So i rigged up another cooler to test tractor. Motor started right up and runs good. Everything works on tractor. It has f-26 hitch on back. Now i'm waiting to hear from my son today to see what he's going to do. (buy use pto and cooler) or what. I know he's going to sell it.
It appears that an EZ Adjust clutch, Kohler type, will fit your tractor. The oil cooler configuration on tractors with a front mounted hydraulic reservoir is different from the later model steering tower located reservoirs and you need to know that when looking for another oil cooler. You will also need the newer style cooling fan to mount on the EZ Adjust clutch should you decide to upgrade this tractor.
Bob MacGregor in CT :mrgreen: :mowlawn:
Bob MacGregor in CT :mrgreen: :mowlawn:
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