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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Wait, don`t answer that, it`s rhetorical.
`87 446 has always had a perfect mid mount PTO, snappy lever action,no drag,no slip.
Swapping short blocks required it`s removal and having read countless threads of members struggling with adjustment, I carefully removed and ran string through the parts together in the proper order. Start to reverse the procedure today ( new wavy gravy washers) and figure it can`t hurt to consult the parts diagram. Exploded view shows one .100 spacer behind the pulley bearing and one .100 spacer in front. My "parts on a rope" has both .100 spacers forward of the pulley bearing between pulley and C32169 cam. Therefore I assemble it according to the "bible"
Go through multiple adjustment permutations, no dope, won`t work. I understand that this adjustment is similar to solid tappets and you will change the clearance when you tighten the locknut. No big deal, you get a feel for it and learn to compensate for the change. After a fair amount of sweating & swearing, I relent and reassemble in the order in which it was removed. VIOLA !
Another day or so to mount the intake , side tin , heat exchanger etc and I `ll be ready to light this candle. :grin:
 

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When the friction disc wears too thin some do that with either a .050" or .100" spacer to stop the clutch from slipping, however not a recommended practice. Is the pulley bearing the correct one and installed all the way into the pulley?
But more than likely the friction disc is worn too thin.
I'm heading for Fostoria, OH Tuesday AM with some fellow model railroad club members to watch trains, we like tractors too, but this trip is trains!!!! We will visit Deshler and Marion before we head for Altoona and Harrisburg, PA.
Bob MacGregor in CT :mrgreen: :mowlawn:
 

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If you look closely at the various parts and service literature, you will see that some clutches are spec'd to be assembled with the .200" or 2 .100" spacers out front.

I can't say I've totally interpreted it ... but some clutch pulleys have a raised shoulder (or counter bore) where the disk is. This requires a spacer to set the pulley bore slightly farther forward with more spacer stack on the engine side. The new pulley I have in stock features this counterbore.

It seems that 'early production' was set up for this '2 shims in front' geometry. Would have thought your '87 had the counterbored shoulder originally. Maybe it was changed out along the way and ended up with an older pulley.

Brian
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
^ Thanks Brian ! :thumbup: Now I feel better, :clap: I thought the heat in the tractor shed was making me more stupid than usual..( assuming that`s possible)
 

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Hi Brian and group,
Having got into EZ Adjust clutches over the years I had wondered why there was so little space left on the stub shaft when the clutch was engaged which didn't alow for much friction disc wear before the pulley bottomed out compressing the wave washers and causing clutch slippage. Also the last time that I ordered the .100" spacers I was told that they were no longer available and only .050" spacers were available.
I does make sense to me that there may have been a minor engineering change to the pulley. I rebuilt an EZ Adjust clutch a while back and I had to play with it as if it was a Shim Adjust clutch to make it work. I don't remember exactly what I did but I know that it wasn't the same order of spacers as shown in the service/parts manuals.
A long while back I decided to adjust EZ Adjust clutches so they didn't drag when disengaged and not to the .002"-.007" gap which takes three thickness gauges and a third hand to accomplish.
Bob MacGregor in CT :mrgreen: :mowlawn:
 

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Previous posts make sense to me as well. I have a '72 444 and it has the hub with the raised pilot diameter. The disc on it was virtucally brand new when I bought it (course it was set up tight with no engagement fork/arm cause it was running a hyd pump. I thought it strange that the pilot pretty much makes half the thickness of the disc useless (allowing for about 1/" of wear).

I purchased a bunch of new shims and wave springs after mine ate some of the ones it came with. Because my shaft is worn under the hub bearing I thought I'd try three sets of two wave springs (per manual for clutch design I have) as it came with only two sets of two (earlier style clutch) as I figured it may get me some more life out the thing. When I pushed on the hub pretty hard the disc wouldnt engage the plate. So I then tried two sets of three and it still didnt seem like it would touch up right. So I left it at two sets of two. I dont see how three sets of two would work with the disc worn down 1/8" to that pilot but it must.

Maybe that pilot was put there as some form of wear indicator cause it sure seems way too big just to be there for easy positioning of disc during assembly.

I too set the gap using the "remove shims til the thing JUST slips when disengaged" method as the gap measuing is a bit 'fuzzy' due to sloppiness of hub on shaft.
 

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Hi Brian,
I just read thru my EZ Adjust clutch manual and I see what you are reffering to. The key to the process is to identify the parts and their locations when dissassembling the clutch as the manual spells out several variables not noted in the assembly picture in the manual.
Mad Mackie in CT :lol: :crazy: :wtf:
 
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