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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am working on a 1973 446 Tractor Serial # 9678679 with a Onan 170-2968 engine. I did a tear down of this tractor, cleaned , repaired and painted it. During the reassemble I noticed the ( Borg Warner Hyd. pump) elbow fitting coming from the rear cover seamed loose, it rotated easily. Well it came apart and I replaced the O ring (1" od x .100 thick) that was worn, thinking that was the problem I greased it up and put it back together. It still rotates but not as much. My question to all is, what is supposed to hold this together and am I missing something?
 

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The fitting you are talking about is on the SUCTION side of the pump. In other words, there is no pressure on this fitting at all. The O-ring is adequate to hold the fitting in the pump and seal it at the same time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well let me say this, during the assembly of the hose to the tank, the elbow pipe came out of the pump. N :crazy: ow I need to remove the radiator and slide the engine forward to reassemble it. Seems to me this could have been designed to stay together better. :crazy:
 

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The grease you put on that fitting works both ways. It lets the fitting slide in easily and slide out easily. Wipe everything off and use Brake Cleaner to remove the rest. You might be able to do this by removing the access panel on your dash tower.

Thousands of tractors were sold with that pump and fitting combo. Your tractor ran for many years with that pump and never had a problem.
 

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I should have said,...... many years without it having that fitting ever come loose from the pump. :thumbsup: This time around, after inserting the fitting dry, see how much resistance it has to being pulled out.
 

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Just wondering if the replacement o-ring is of the 'right' material. The ones I bought at Ace for my kids pool filter are just cheapo's I think and were pretty soft. Dont know what material they are. Certain o-ring materials will swell quite a bit as they absorb oil over time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I'll be going back at it tomorrow. The reason I used grease was I didn't want to cut the O-ring while trying to push it back together, but I'll remove the grease and try it again. It only fits together 1/2 inch and bottoms out.
It may be just a cheap O-ring, it was one I had laying around in my stash of misc. parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I couldn't wait til tomorrow. I pulled it apart and cleaned off all the grease and sprayed with break cleaner, added a drop of oil onto another new O-ring and reassembled it. It still moves of course but shouldn't leak. This time before sliding the engine back in place I took a heavy gauge wire and wound it around the pump and hose/clamp, holding it in place. I may reach in there and cut it off but I don't think it would hurt to leave it on. Everything is back on and soon I'll be able to start it up and see if it leaks. :facepalm:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well, it doesn't leak but... I must have air trapped in the lines somewhere because when I move the travel shifter it doesn't move right away, it pauses then jumps and stops. Maybe I need to crack the lines and let air out? :think: :???:
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yes, I have moved the gear shifter into all three positions. With the engine running, I shift it into forward or reverse it doesn't move at all then it jumps like the pumps starts working then stops again.

I totally disassemble this tractor and removed all the oil. This pump was working before I removed it. I removed the hex screw in the control valve and started the engine to drain all the oil and it spurted oil then stopped, then spurted again then stopped etc.
Now I have it back together and was wondering if I needed to bleed the hydraulic lines or ??
 

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Well, I wouldnt run it with the test/drain plug removed. You only need to remove it, move the travel lever into full forward or reverse, and turn the engine over with the spark plug removed (with axle in neutral). Doesnt take long at all to drain it.

After I filled mine I kept the axle in neutral and turned the engine over a bit (spark plug still removed) and kept the travel lever in full forward or reverse . I then ran the engine at low speed (axle in neutral) and changed travel directions a few times and also worked the lift cylinder to full travel in either direction a few times at well. I had no problems after doing that.

You may be sucking air enough to keep the pump from priming? I would suggest doing the above and probably remove the wire you'd installed in case its pulling the suction pipe in such a way as to allow some air into the system. If you can get at that area easily you may also run a plastic tube or hose to the pipe pump housing interface and apply some hyd oil around it as the engine is running and see if its sucking it in. I would try the above first.

So, did you get an o-ring for that pipe at a hydraulics shop and how do you know for sure the section diameter is the correct size?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
gator, It is a new hydraulic hose!
Rockdog, I had another O'ring in the stash, and it is the same size. I was a toolmaker and I measured it with calipers.
I too think it is "sucking air enough to keep the pump from priming" I will remove the wire I put on, and try your procedure today.
 

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There's a difference between regular hydraulic pressure hose and suction hose. On my '72 the suction tube and tank fitting almost tough so just went with the regular hydraulic hose and it doesnt 'breath' at all. take a look at yours and make sure it isnt collapsing.

If I were you and it is leaking and wont prime I'd call a hydraulics shop and ask them about it. They may be able to tell you whether there is a special o-ring or oversized one or give you a pointer or two. Its not like there arent any in your area!
 
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