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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was watching 2 sleeve hitches on ebay 1 was reapired once and had a nut broken off it, looked well used and abused. The other looked like new and was complete. I got the good one for 127. The broken one went for ove 200. Crazy but i'm happy. Never thought I would get one in my hands for less that 300.
 

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The hitch that went for $127 was not complete. It's missing the parts that the nut was broke off on the other hitch (the pivots that mount on the rear end). The seller added that info to his listing the second day of the auction. The last time I saw those sell separate from a hitch they went for over $100 and that was probably better than a year ago. The one that went for $260 may not have been as nice but it was complete.
You'll probably be able to make the pivots for $20 though if you can weld. But then it's not nice and factory built.
 

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cp7 said:
You'll probably be able to make the pivots for $20 though if you can weld. But then it's not nice and factory built.
I've made a bunch of the pivot brackets of each style and it's easy to make an OEM reproduction if you can scare up some 1.25" x 3/16" square tubing. Depending on the equipment you have available you may need to make a jig to make the angle cut on the tubing but the rest involves drilling 3 holes and tacking in two nuts and a short piece of 3/4" rod. Even easier are the right hand pivots used on the 200 series that are simply a piece of 3/8" bar stock with the pivot rod welded on. You could make all of them the same way and nobody but Tom would notice that they weren't "correct". :sidelaugh:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
cp7. I never saw that it wasn't complete. I asked if it was for a 200 or 400 series and the answer was there. I have to go back to the listing and see if I see that. So any one interested in an incomplete sleeve hitch?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks cp 7. That is more clear than the pictures in the operators manuals. Do you have this diagram that is mentioned on the drawing? sleeve hitch plate.jpg Guess I'll have to make the draw bar plate also.
 

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Here's the specs on the plate which you will already have and the build notes that have been credited to our fine and talented friend Bart.

"This file was actually created by "barttractorman". I only edited it
so that it is all displayed on one page and does not spread way out
to the right. That is the reason I am now listed as the creator in the
index instead of Bart.
So if you have questions ask Bart not me. Larry E.
**********************************************************

I have built a number of sleeve hitches and it is not terribly difficult.
I used 2.5" x .25" angle iron for the two side rails. The rear bar can be
made from 2.5" x .25" square tubing with the one side cut out to provide
access for welding. I used 3/4" ID x .125" DOM tubing for the pin tubes but
I think that 3/4" black pipe would work just as well.

The mounting brackets can be made from 1.5" x 3/16" square tubing. Note that
the left side mounting bracket used on some tractors is different due to
the tight clearance between the drive motor and the axle housing--these are
made from a piece of 3/8" x 1.5" flat stock with the 3/4" pin simply welded on
in the proper location. These flat brackets are required for the 200 series
and may be required for the 3000/4000 series also.

There are two different lift arms depending upon the length of your tractor
frame, the short frame tractors and 200 series require the lift arm with
the dimensions shown in the diagram in this folder. For the longer frames
you need to add 2" to the pin to pin dimension. Note the short frame has a
measurement of 13" between the seat pedestal and the steering pedestal on
the floor between the footrests, the longer frame measurement is 15".

Note that the hole for holding the hitch in the raised position when the lift
arm is removed is NOT centered so measure before drilling the hole or welding
up the cross member."

 
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