brake issue - broke the drum off

Seems doable to me, assuming that you don`t have excess slop in the bush that supports the shaft. :headscratcher:

It's do-able....but the real question is whether the heat will take out the oil seal or not. The odds are 50/50, I suppose. I would just go ahead and do it. Use a MIG and tack it in place first. Cool it off. Then add weld, stop, cool it down, add weld, stop, cool it down and so one until you are happy. If you wreck the seal, then out comes the trans-axle anyway. Take your time and perhaps you will prevent the need for that. Good luck and let us know how you make out.


Don't forget. Tack the drum, then rotate the drum while checking how true it is, then tack again in another spot and check again. You don't want that drum wobbling all over the place. When doing the final welding, keep checking and go from one side to the 180 degree opposite.

I'll roll the dice, but is the only way to remove the shaft is to remove the entire rear end from the unit? just prepping myself for all options at this point...

Yes.. The frame of the tractor sits on top of the trans-axle and sandwiches the sheet metal cover of the trans-axle between it and the cast iron housing. There is no option here. If you ruin the seal, the trans-axle must be dropped away from the tractor. It's not a huge job but it often turns into one of those "well.......while I am already in there" scenarios that have you thinking about replacing the axle seals and shifter seal along with the motor O-ring. And then..... well... perhaps I should clean out the fuel tank, destroy the filter screen that is often inside and install a brand new fuel line and in-line filter while I am here.

I already have one of those "while I'm there" scenarios if I need to pull the rear end: one of the threads for the lug bolts is stripped and has been replaced with a regular nut/bolt, works but, not what i would like.

I'll keep y'all informed on how it goes - I'll tackle the welding this week

The simplest solution to that problem is to put a helicoil in that stripped hole.

Make sure that you attach your ground to the drum only.

miles44 said:

I already have one of those "while I'm there" scenarios if I need to pull the rear end: one of the threads for the lug bolts is stripped and has been replaced with a regular nut/bolt, works but, not what i would like.

Click to expand...

A few members have installed (longer) bolts from behind so they can use "regular" lug nuts, which makes it easier to mount a heavy tire. In your case (no pun intended) you could do the same, and then just tack the head of the bolt (the one in the stripped hole) to prevent it from spinning.

If you decide to replace the entire drum assembly PM me, I have an extra laying around here. :thumbsup:

got around to this repair, and the welds wont hold, its like sticking hot glue on glass - it keeps popping back off????

thoughts?

What kind of welder are you using? Is it hot enough for decent penetration? You need heat to weld or else its just chicken scratching. When you let off the mig gun the weld should be orange, if it cools off before you get your mask up turn up the power.

I have not tried my MIG yet, we have a guy here in town and he tried using an ARC. He also brazed my fuel tank leak as well...

I guess if it melts the seal, it gives me a reason to take a peek inside :grin:

I was able to try welding it this weekend and it worked - seems to be holding, but I have an extra laying around in case it breaks off again