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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just picked up my first inger 446. Its full of old gas and will not throttle up (at least I hope thats why). What maintenance should I do to this thing with a 1000 hrs on it. Is it worth checking valve clearance? I only paid $550 and other than a sloppy front end theres no other known problems. Any other tips for a first time 446 owner?
 

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Yes you should probably check the valve lash. Decarbon the heads while you're at it.

Your carb is probably full of all sorts of junk as well as the gas tank and fuel line. I would remove the gas tank and clean it thoroughly and replace the fuel line.

Remove the carb and disassemble and clean it very thoroughly.

A new set of points and a new condenser probably wouldn't hurt either.


Where are you measuring voltage? Right off the stator?
 

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Was the tractor sitting outside unused for a long period of time? You could give it the $50 service just to get it running decent or you could go right through it and ensure that it will run correctly when you turn the key. I would highly suggest spending a few dollars and making everything right again. First thing I would do is pull the gas tank out and get rid of the old gas. Then clean the inside of the tank out and replace the rubber fuel line that goes to the engine. A new fuel filter will also be needed. The gas cap has a vent on it and they get clogged up over time so just look at it closely and clean it out if there is junk in there. The carb should be taken apart and cleaned out as well. I would also replace all the fluids in the tractor. We have a big tech section along with FAQ that will show you what fluids to use in your tractor. Read through those sections of the forum and also look for your manual here. it will give you a ton of info on what to go for service work on the tractor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It was actually garage kept and is in pretty good shape body wise(I was trying to upload a pic but cant figure it out). I will be taking the gas tank out cleaning and installing new line and filter. Also cleaning the carb and changing all fluids. Another prob was the battery so I replaced it and I put my meter across the post with tractor running and it reads 23 volts. Is that right or is it a severe overcharge?(Im used to seeing 14 volts for most charging circuits)
 

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There's no way you should be seeing DC voltage higher than 14 volts across the two battery posts with the engine running. I would try another meter first just to verify the first reading. Test instruments are only good when you know for certain they are good.

A new regulator would be in order if the second meter also reads 23 volts DC at the battery.


I suggest that you take a tour of the FAQ's and read the articles about the correct oil to use in the trans-axle and hydraulic system. There is also an article that explains how to drain the hydraulic system.


Check the bolts that hold your Onan to the frame. Make sure the rubber pucks UNDER the frame are there and not deteriorated. The bolts need to be tight but not over tight.

Make sure you have a brass float in your carb. Composite floats cannot withstand the alcohol in the fuels used today.
 

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take the stock battery out. make a box between the rear wheels, for the battery. this will keep the cables that go to the engine from corroding the cables. this will let you use a car size battery.
 

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What if you have a sleeve hitch or 3 point hitch or a factory weight box or a HydraBagger ?

On this forum, we look at such modifications as butchering a tractor for no valid reason. Sorry about that but it has to be said. Many thousands of these tractors were built, sold and used by happy owners with the standard size GT battery under the hood. If that isn't adequate, then the tractor has issues that need to be diagnosed properly and then corrected properly. :thumbsup:
 

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No Mike... it's actually a very bad idea.

Start/gen's are highly susceptible to overheating and destroying themselves if they are cranked for an extended period.

As I said, if an engine does not start fairly easily, then something is wrong. FIX IT. Band-aid solutions like this often cause more problems than they cure aside from making your tractor look like a piece of crap.
 

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Hydriv said:
No Mike... it's actually a very bad idea.

Start/gen's are highly susceptible to overheating and destroying themselves if they are cranked for an extended period.

As I said, if an engine does not start fairly easily, then something is wrong. FIX IT. Band-aid solutions like this often cause more problems than they cure aside from making your tractor look like a piece of crap.
Once again Hydriv read my mind and posted it. :wink: Well said! :goodpost: :goodpost: :goodpost:
 

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Mjoe7 said:
Hydriv said:
No Mike... it's actually a very bad idea.

Start/gen's are highly susceptible to overheating and destroying themselves if they are cranked for an extended period.

As I said, if an engine does not start fairly easily, then something is wrong. FIX IT. Band-aid solutions like this often cause more problems than they cure aside from making your tractor look like a piece of crap.
Once again Hydriv read my mind and posted it. :wink: Well said! :goodpost: :goodpost: :goodpost:
That's exactly what I did and I am forwarding all the hate-mail to you as a result. :sidelaugh:
 

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Hydriv said:
Mjoe7 said:
Hydriv said:
No Mike... it's actually a very bad idea.

Start/gen's are highly susceptible to overheating and destroying themselves if they are cranked for an extended period.

As I said, if an engine does not start fairly easily, then something is wrong. FIX IT. Band-aid solutions like this often cause more problems than they cure aside from making your tractor look like a piece of crap.
Once again Hydriv read my mind and posted it. :wink: Well said! :goodpost: :goodpost: :goodpost:
That's exactly what I did and I am forwarding all the hate-mail to you as a result. :sidelaugh:
Oops! :facepalm: :smile:
 

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mikebramel said:
Some people dont store their equipment inside. Good luck starting it at 0 especially if the engine has wear.
Case covered that issue by telling people in the Op Manual to change their oil for the winter time if extreme cold conditions are normal in your area. The engine oil on a Kohler or Onan can be swapped out for 0W30 synthetic and the hydraulic oil can also be changed to a synthetic such as 5W40. When people have a hard time starting their cars in the winter, then the smart ones do things such as install magnetic oil pan heaters or dipstick heaters or battery warmers. They can also toss a heavy tarp over the entire tractor and put some form of electric heat under it that can be controlled from inside the garage whenever use of the tractor is anticipated.

Using a car battery with 900 cold cranking amps certainly helps to make sure there is enough power there to spin the engine over but all of that is predicated on the starter motor or start/gen being in good condition. Back in the day when I worked in Service Stations, customers brought their cars in for a fall tune up and then a spring tune up. That is no longer necessary today with the modern ignitions systems but people seem to forget that most Onan and Kohler engines in these tractors date back to that era. They need attention to make sure they will light up when they are spun over just a few revolutions. The guy I use to rebuild start/gens etc has been doing it a long, long time and has seen many of them badly damaged thanks to being spun constantly while trying to start an engine that was badly out of tune.

If Colt, Case or Ingersoll felt that these tractors NEEDED a 900 CCA battery, then you can be sure that they would have put one in. If the engine is badly worn, then rebuild it. Applying band-aids won't fix anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well I got it all together finally and I gotta say I have never heard a GT Idle so smooth. It amazes me, I had to listen to it for 5 min. Replaced the regulator and got a sweet 14 volts coming out so that's good to go now. I went through every hydraulic connection and put new orings in, everything is dry as a bone now. Also sent the front axle off to have a new bushing and pin made(world of difference. The only problem is when I throttle up quickly it falls on its face I have to choke it slightly and it runs fine. I ran new lines with an inline filter and cleaned the carb out. I set the float height(Brass) and played with the adjustment but didnt seem to help. Maybe some left over dirt in the carb yet? When it falls on its face it sprays gas out the top of the carb :headscratcher:
 

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Hydriv said:
When people have a hard time starting their cars in the winter, then the smart ones do things such as install magnetic oil pan heaters or dipstick heaters or battery warmers. They can also toss a heavy tarp over the entire tractor and put some form of electric heat under it that can be controlled from inside the garage whenever use of the tractor is anticipated.

If Colt, Case or Ingersoll felt that these tractors NEEDED a 900 CCA battery, then you can be sure that they would have put one in. If the engine is badly worn, then rebuild it. Applying band-aids won't fix anything.
The first paragraph would seem to endorse "band-aids" while the second shuns them. :wave:
 
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