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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
1976-646 Serial Number 9732149
Plan of action is to rewire tractor and install a factory ignition switch.
Ordered a new switch from Brian. Harness is not available.
My operators manual has the wiring diagram clearly mapped by color for my 646. Parts Manual B1302 also has mapped as early model.
Electrical manual on site doesn't cover my tractor. But gauge of wire is not given in any case unless I am missing something. Want to go up as Stewart suggested.
So I am thinking of high quality marine #14 wire throughout except ignition to battery marine #10 wire and coil to starter #10. Will match colors identified in diagram if possible and install two 30 amp fuses. All will be neatly shrink wrapped with protected connectors. Does this sound like a good plan of action? I want it to be neat and correct and provide maximum electrical efficiency.
Any help is appreciated! :thumbsup:
B1302 http://www.manuals.casecoltingersoll.co ... marked.pdf:
:222: :446: Best Regards, Rich
 

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I just rewired mine about a month ago. I used regular automotive twisted copper wire. Colored to the manual. 14ga for all except went to 8ga for battery to starter and ground. That is what was on it.

I couldn't find the 2 piece connector that the rectifier plugs into the harness so I used a flat trailer connector and sealed it with silicon grease. I did replace all crimp lugs with new copper ones and soldered them on. I found several that the wire corroded in the crimps.

Where ever the wire might rub on metal by chance, I used heat shrink tubing for extra protection.

All I have left to do is buy a new switch and gauge. How much did that switch run and is it the old regular key style or the new universal key style?
 

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Ingersoll Dealer
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The common mid-years ignition switch is C30268, $24.75, with a universal key.

Early Case tractors useds a keyed switch, which is now replaced by C23839, $33.64. I've not had one of those in, so frankly don't know if that new one is universal key or not.

Connector bodies are pretty readily available through Ingersoll also ... most under $4.

Brian
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Gregad511 said:
I just rewired mine about a month ago. I used regular automotive twisted copper wire. Colored to the manual. 14ga for all except went to 8ga for battery to starter and ground. That is what was on it.

I couldn't find the 2 piece connector that the rectifier plugs into the harness so I used a flat trailer connector and sealed it with silicon grease. I did replace all crimp lugs with new copper ones and soldered them on. I found several that the wire corroded in the crimps.

Where ever the wire might rub on metal by chance, I used heat shrink tubing for extra protection.

All I have left to do is buy a new switch and gauge. How much did that switch run and is it the old regular key style or the new universal key style?
Thanks Greg, appreciate the reply. :thumbsup: Mine is a complete mess so I can't figure out what gauge should be where and I don't trust anything that was done previously.
:222: :446: Best Regards, Rich
 

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InTroubleAlltheTime said:
Mine is a complete mess so I can't figure out what gauge should be where and I don't trust anything that was done previously.
:222: :446: Best Regards, Rich
Rich,

There is no value in going crazy with heavy wire. The only places where you really want something heavy are the starter and ground connections--from the battery and through the solenoid. These are the only circuits where you get much of a load and I would use no. 6 wire.

I would use #14 for the charging circuit and everything else can be #16 or #18.
 

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Rich, I wouldn't waste my time using the crimper section on most wire strippers. Autozone sells ratchet type crimpers for about $25. Well worth it. I made my living doing electrical work, mostly industrial controls, and would stake my reputation on poorly made crimps. Those Autozone crimpers do as good of a job as $300 Thomas&Betts crimpers by the way.
 

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club
my harness are all 14 ga. min.
all connections are minus the outer shield
then they are soldered, then shrink tubing is installed.
and finally all connections are dialectric grease.
thank you. boomer (the used onan engine parts guy)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Billygoat said:
Rich, I wouldn't waste my time using the crimper section on most wire strippers. Autozone sells ratchet type crimpers for about $25. Well worth it. I made my living doing electrical work, mostly industrial controls, and would stake my reputation on poorly made crimps. Those Autozone crimpers do as good of a job as $300 Thomas&Betts crimpers by the way.
Thanks Billygoat. I am going to invest in a pair. I have the stripper type and I would always give it a test and sometimes it would come out. Learn something good here everyday.
:222: :446: Best Regards, Rich
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
boomers_influence said:
club
my harness are all 14 ga. min.
all connections are minus the outer shield
then they are soldered, then shrink tubing is installed.
and finally all connections are dialectric grease.
thank you. boomer (the used onan engine parts guy)
Thanks Boomer, I guess you can see I am slowly making my way to the carb and air filter housing.....
Just a few more setbacks LOL :sidelaugh: :sidelaugh: :sidelaugh:
:222: :446: Best Regards, Rich
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I went to PEP boys today and also West Marine to see what was available. Between the two I think they have everything I will need. Question. I found a 30amp fuse holder pre-wired with 12 gauge wire. I will need two of these within the harness and I know the rule is to not go from larger wire to smaller.
So in this case it would be 14 gauge wire to 12 gauge wire with 30 amp fuse then back to 14 gauge wire.

-----#14----#12----{30amp fuse}-----#12------#14----

Is this permissible since its fed with 14 and goes back to 14?
Thank you.
:222: :446: Best Regards, Rich
 

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That's not my style :thumbsup:

I would follow Boomers guidelines.

I would use 12 gauge on the fuse lines and 14 gauge on the rest. I would also
use heavy battery cables.

BTW. I would put the 10 gauge back into the drawer. :sidelaugh: :sidelaugh: :sidelaugh:
 

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InTroubleAlltheTime said:
-----#14----#12----{30amp fuse}-----#12------#14----

Is this permissible since its fed with 14 and goes back to 14?
Thank you.
:222: :446: Best Regards, Rich
No problem. The important thing is that there should be no wire be in the circuit that can't handle the amount of current allowed by the fuse. The #14 will handle 30 amps for short periods when the charging system peaks but any short will immediately blow the fuse.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Bart said:
InTroubleAlltheTime said:
-----#14----#12----{30amp fuse}-----#12------#14----

Is this permissible since its fed with 14 and goes back to 14?
Thank you.
:222: :446: Best Regards, Rich
No problem. The important thing is that there should be no wire be in the circuit that can't handle the amount of current allowed by the fuse. The #14 will handle 30 amps for short periods when the charging system peaks but any short will immediately blow the fuse.
Very good, thank you Bart appreciate the help. :thumbsup:
:222: :446: Best Regards, Rich
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
One last item. Thinking of replacing the amp gauge with a voltmeter when I redo the harness. I never seem to have much luck with the amp meters. They never seem to work and don't seem to tell me much. I put a volt meter on my big tractor when I converted to 12 volt system and I like it. Any thoughts?
:222: :446: Best Regards, Rich
 

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Rich

I've considered a Volt meter ever since reading Grummy's view on this one. :thumbsup:

I know that Grummy put a voltmeter on his 448. :headscratcher:

I think I'll keep my 224-79 stock and keep the Amp Gauge. :trink:

Good luck with your Rewire.
 

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If you're considering changes to the instrument panel I suggest adding an hour meter--makes it a lot easier to keep track of your maintenance work/requirements.

If it were easier to work on the wiring I'd have them in all my tractors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Bill.H said:
InTroubleAlltheTime said:
One last item. Thinking of replacing the amp gauge with a voltmeter when I redo the harness.
Do it! :thumbsup: I hooked mine up to the L terminal on the switch so I can check the voltage before I try to start it.
Bill:Thank you. I had one on my fishing boat with 350 GM. I could always get a good handle on what was happening with charging/battery condition.
:222: :446: Best Regards, Rich
 
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