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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello all.

I'm building my own little GT. Finding a used one around here is rare, finding a Case just doesn't happen. Anything you buy new is too big and too expensive for me. I dont need a SCUT, this is just for my own driveway and moving some dirt around (bad back, shovel and wheelbarrow are not an option).

Don't shoot me since I'm planning to use Case parts, they all came from "un-salvagable" machines or ebay and I plan to give them all a new life, just under different sheet metal.

This started as a 90 (-ish) Murray Garden tractor, which is a half step between a GT and a ride on mower. Belt drive, MST (peerless 820), Briggs 18hp (opposed). I just don't want to deal with trying to "clutch" a belt drive anymore. It's been in a slow state of evolution to a more capable machine (it now sports a fully welded frame, 1/4"x4" steel), but it's just hit the limits of what I can do with it "as is". A johnny bucket style scoop and a snow plow is what i currently use on it (winch lift/lower), but I've got a hankering for a FEL. So I basically have to tear it down to nothing and start again. Frame, JD 345 front axle, sheet metal and the Briggs are about all I plan to keep. The rest gets "tossed". Well, it really goes on the shelf in the garage for possible future use. Never toss out steel, electrical or mechanical bits!

Since everyone seems to want pics in a thread these days, here's a couple pics of with and without the winter cab:

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The side plexi is foggy in those pics because I hadn't yet pulled the protective plastic off it and the last pic was while I was doing some work on it in the fall.

The plan is to have one system to run the power steering (transplanting a JD 318/Parker system) the impliments (plow, loader, 3 point, etc), and another for the drive system. Only thing they will have in common is the reservoir, which I will TIG up out of aluminum (so I can upsize it to deal with both system draws). The JD system is a load beyond system, so I'm going to use the JD supply to power 5 selector valves. 5 levers might seem a like a little over kill, but I've got a JD H3 valve and an H2 valve hanging around so might as well use them. Can't go wrong with more options for selector valves!

So the thing is; I'm transplanting a Hydrive under it.

I've got a collection of parts here and more on the way. When I get it all collected, I'll have the rear axle, drive motor, TCV, pump and cooler from the 200 series Case.

Rigid lines I plan to make myself, flaring 37 degree fittings isn't a big deal for me as I work with AN fittings a lot (I'm in aerospace). Flex lines I'm a bit undecided if I want to just stop into a hydraulic store (closest is about an hour away) or make my own (press, crimper, etc). I'd need to buy a few tool to crimp my own, but I'm always up for buying more tools!

What I would like to know is the Hydrive rigid line size and if they are single or double flare.

Thanks.
 

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Tubing is 5/8". The pump is 0.61cu in. Since your mixing and matching, I would suggest a variable pump for the tractive drive like the JD318 system. Variable pumps for mobile machines have charge pumps that can be used for accessories. Use a fixed pump for FEL. Use a bigger fixed pump for hydraulic PTO.

Do they use double flare in Aerospace? No such thing as 37 degree double flare.

I might be able to set you up with some stuff. Where are you located.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well poop.

My tools only go up to 1/2. Guess I'll have to buy one that goes to 5/8.

For JD system (Hyd steering) I'm using a .36 pump: 0.36 cu in Dynamic GPF2006PC Hydraulic Pump | Gear Pumps | Hydraulic Pumps | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com

The Case stuff I'm going to be running it off a Case pump from a 200 series. Bought used, hoping it's not totally thrashed, it just has to work reasonably well:

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Figured I go with the way case designed it and change things around if I don't like the way it performs. Pumps are fairly easy changes if they don't put out what I need. I need to get the systems built before I know if I need more volume.

I'm thinking I might have to build a "disengage" for starting in cold weather. Turning two pump in cold 15w40 might be a bit much for the B&S starter. I've got a couple car A/c clutches on the shelves, so turning up a shaft/mount on the lathe is a pretty quick job for me.

I'm in NS.
 

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I can get that Dynamic pump for less, but I would suggest you wait for a sale at Princess Auto; often they sell them under $100.00 CND. I've been tempted to buy this pump even though I don't have a need for it; its such a good deal and has capacity to original pump except variable.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I can get that Dynamic pump for less, but I would suggest you wait for a sale at Princess Auto; often they sell them under $100.00 CND. I've been tempted to buy this pump even though I don't have a need for it; its such a good deal and has capacity to original pump except variable.
Already bought and sitting on the shelf. I only paid 150 CAD to my door so it wasn't that bad of a deal.

Princess Auto is an hour drive away and it's in an "essential travel only " zone (HRM). I'm outside the "clamp zone", so no travel for me. I'm also immune compromised, which is another reason to stick to home and find shipped to door options.

I did have 4 cyliners for the loader build delivered from PA. Best price for new I could find anywhere. I liked the fact they also sell rebuild kits for them.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
This manual has charts near the end that lay out what line ID is needed for rate of flow: https://manuals.casecoltingersoll.com/ServiceManuals/General Hydraulic Information - Cross.pdf
It also has a chart of horsepower to pump displacement and pressure.
I used these online pump calculators: Hydraulic Pump Calculations - Womack Machine Supply Company when I was figuring out how to put Power Steering on a Case 646 loader: Power Steering Added to 646a
Those are useful links, thanks.
 
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