Cab Possibility

6630 Views 32 Replies 16 Participants Last post by Hydriv, Jan 20, 2012

JSB Case

Discussion Starter · May 30, 2011

4

I picked this up today. It was inexpensive and it looked really close to the Case cabs that I have seen. It will need some fab work and canvas work on the doors and hood. But, I think it should be usable. Did I mention it needs a PAINT job? :sidelaugh:

See less See more

1 - 20 of 33 Posts

Snotrocket

· #2 · May 30, 2011

That is pretty much identical to a Case cab. The windshield isn't quite as long and the front supports are to short but it's workable.

How much did you have to fork over for it?

JSB Case

Discussion Starter · #3 · May 30, 2011

It seems like the front supports are too short. But, if I lengthen them it will create a larger gap between the hood and the window. I am not much of a fabricator or welder, but I get by with a little help from my friends.

Snot, it cost me $60 and a 10 minute drive. I couldn't pass it up, it was worth the chance that it would fit.

Hydriv

· #4 · May 31, 2011

Lengthen the front supports and have a boat shop make up a canvas closure that can be unsnapped to allow the hood to swing up.

InTroubleAlltheTime

· #5 · May 31, 2011

Great find JSB! Looks like you can adapt it up nice with some minor work.
:222: :446: Best Regards, Rich

dbeiter

· #6 · May 31, 2011

PLEEEZZEE get rid of that nasty green and yeller paint......... :sidelaugh:

BowlBuilder

· #7 · Jun 1, 2011

Maybe cutting some off of the bottom of the back section and drilling new holes would be a simpler way to level out the top.

Hydriv

· #8 · Jun 1, 2011

You have to get in there to refill the gas tank unless you are going to put solar cells on the roof and convert the tractor to electric drive.

JSB Case

Discussion Starter · #9 · Jun 2, 2011

A friend with a welder stopped by to look at the cab tonight. We came up with a possible solution. I think we are going to add on to the top of the front section, above the windshield. This will lower the front support arms down where they should be, shrink the gap between the hood and windshield and level the roof all at the same time. I still need to take some measurments to see how everything will work, but I am now optimistic about keeping and using the cab. :fingerscrossed:

Caseman2

· #10 · Jun 2, 2011

dbeiter said:
PLEEEZZEE get rid of that nasty green and yeller paint......... :sidelaugh:

Naaah, just get a matching yellow seat. :mrgreen:

mjodrey

· #11 · Jun 2, 2011

Caseman2 said:
dbeiter said:

PLEEEZZEE get rid of that nasty green and yeller paint......... :sidelaugh:

Click to expand...

Naaah, just get a matching yellow seat. :mrgreen:

Now you're talkin',go with the flow..... :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: .....No wait,if everybody jumped off a bridge,.......or something like that. :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

Maynard :canada:

BowlBuilder

· #12 · Jun 2, 2011

Perhaps I'm missing something. The best way to level out this cab is to disassemble the back panel from the piece (or pieces) which bolts to the fenders. Cut the predetermined amount needed off the bottom of the back panel, duplicating the angles and hole pattern. Bolt it back together and there you have it. This could be accomplished with a hacksaw, a file and a hand drill if need be. This way would not only level out the top, but also move the piece which bolts to the fenders back a few badly needed inches. Raising the front would either require welding, which would probably end up looking cobbled, or requiring a booster seat to see out of the window. I don't see how this would hinder putting gas in the tractor and it would still look completely factory standard to the unknowing. You can even cut a little extra off if you want to bring the front down a little. Am I missing something?

dbeiter

· #13 · Jun 3, 2011

Caseman2 said:
dbeiter said:

PLEEEZZEE get rid of that nasty green and yeller paint......... :sidelaugh:

Click to expand...

Naaah, just get a matching yellow seat. :mrgreen:

Yeah, that would complete the package!! :sidelaugh: :sidelaugh: :mrgreen:

Bart

· #14 · Jun 3, 2011

JSB Case said:
A friend with a welder stopped by to look at the cab tonight. We came up with a possible solution. I think we are going to add on to the top of the front section, above the windshield. This will lower the front support arms down where they should be, shrink the gap between the hood and windshield and level the roof all at the same time. I still need to take some measurments to see how everything will work, but I am now optimistic about keeping and using the cab. :fingerscrossed:

It's looks to me as if that cab would fit without modification on a 200 series tractor. Since those cabs are more rare than the 400 models you may be able to sell/swap for the correct cab but you'd have to fix the paint first.

JSB Case

Discussion Starter · #15 · Jun 3, 2011

Bart said:
It's looks to me as if that cab would fit without modification on a 200 series tractor. Since those cabs are more rare than the 400 models you may be able to sell/swap for the correct cab but you'd have to fix the paint first.

Never even gave that a thought Bart. My neighbor has a late 70's 220 that I could set the cab on to check for fit. I was thinking of blasting and priming everything right away to prevent any further rust. But, if the cab fits properly, I will probably do a complete paint job and go the route that you suggested. Cabs of any kind are fairly scarce in this area, so I don't see the need to molest one that would be perfect for someone else. Thanks for the tip. :thumbsup:

JSB Case

Discussion Starter · #16 · Jan 15, 2012

6

Since it is now cab season, thought I would give a progress update for this cab. After taking a bunch of measurements and setting the cab on various tractors, it turned out to not fit any Case/Ingersoll tractor. Since it came from a Deere, I figured why not try to make it fit my 1987 448.

I extended the bottom of the front posts so it would look more like a Case cab.

Then I needed to level the roof by 4". I decided to cut a 4" section out of the middle of the rear section and then weld the shortened halves back together. I did it this way because it was a much more simple cutting and welding process. If I cut the 4" off the top or bottom, I would have to make multiple cuts to recreate the original shape of those pieces.

Welded back together.

Placed on the tractor to check for fit.

Currently working on some steel doors and misc. panels similar to Snotrocket's machine. Then the green and yellow paint will turn Power Red! I will update with progress.

See less See more

Snotrocket

· #17 · Jan 15, 2012

Looking good!

Tired of freezing your ass off during a snow storm? :lol: :lol:

CASE 220/4

· #18 · Jan 15, 2012

What do you have for headroom in there when you are sitting inside? The pics may be misleading but to me, it looks a LOT shorter then a Case cab now.

JSB Case

Discussion Starter · #19 · Jan 15, 2012

CASE 220/4 said:
What do you have for headroom in there when you are sitting inside? The pics may be misleading but to me, it looks a LOT shorter then a Case cab now.

That was my original concern. My first plan was to raise the front of the cab up 4" to level it out. I spent some time taking measurments and even attached a 2X4 on the front to mock up the potential height. Doing that would have given me 8"+ of headroom. Now I have 4-5"+ of headroom. I am 6'1" tall, 215lbs and sitting in the cab is pretty comfortable for me.

InTroubleAlltheTime

· #20 · Jan 15, 2012

Nice work JSB!
:222: :446: Best Regards, Rich

1 - 20 of 33 Posts

This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.