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Hey guys I am working on a case 222 I believe is 1983 model .... what I need little help with is wiring what I could be missing as long as maybe finding a use harness as well ... my question is what style rectifier regulator would this model need to run ... it has a electric start most of the wires seem hacked an melted as well any insight would be awesome





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OH BOY!!!! You have a mess there :censored: That is the wrong ignition switch for a 83 model. Get the PIN# and contact one of the dealer for the proper switch. Also use the PIN to look up the manuals,I think the owners manual has the wiring schematic in the back of it. We recently had a big change here and lost our manuals, but they can be found at the link below


I see we lost the authorized dealer list too :mad: One or more should be along to introduce themselves.

Cheers,
Gordy
 

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HI Guy
Wiring being old is bad news all the way around, shorts, broken wires were ya can't see it.
One of our dealers I think sells brand new wiring harnesses
If I remember right they didn't hurt the wallet to much

bigman
 

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Discussion Starter #4
OH BOY!!!! You have a mess there :censored: That is the wrong ignition switch for a 83 model. Get the PIN# and contact one of the dealer for the proper switch. Also use the PIN to look up the manuals,I think the owners manual has the wiring schematic in the back of it. We recently had a big change here and lost our manuals, but they can be found at the link below


I see we lost the authorized dealer list too :mad: One or more should be along to introduce themselves.

Cheers,
Gordy
Thanks for the reply if it a 83 then it’s the same age as I am then as well ... I appreciate the reply I’m not sure what they where trying to do with this machine ... if I knew which manual to download I’d print it off as well so I would have it on hand ... yea I can tell it’s not the right switch as well ... I took the tins off the motor mice nest / cleaned up some of the grease as well much as I could.....


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Discussion Starter #5
HI Guy
Wiring being old is bad news all the way around, shorts, broken wires were ya can't see it.
One of our dealers I think sells brand new wiring harnesses
If I remember right they didn't hurt the wallet to much

bigman
Do you know what dealer would sell them ? Could one get them from a IH dealer or would I have to go to a different place to find a harness? It would help a lot since the motor does run which is a plus ... can one find rectifier yet ?


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Hello Cubcadetsouthdakota,

We have the wiring harness, rectifier and switch in stock as well as any other parts that you may need.

You can find the parts manual for your tractor here: http://eastmanind.com.mytempweb.com/LinkClick.aspx?fileticket=0sXl0AGZix0=&tabid=196

Here are links to the parts mentioned:




Hope this helps,

Bob
www.casegardentractorparts.com
[email protected]
(815)286-3920
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hello Cubcadetsouthdakota,

We have the wiring harness, rectifier and switch in stock as well as any other parts that you may need.

You can find the parts manual for your tractor here: http://eastmanind.com.mytempweb.com/LinkClick.aspx?fileticket=0sXl0AGZix0=&tabid=196

Here are links to the parts mentioned:




Hope this helps,

Bob
www.casegardentractorparts.com
[email protected]
(815)286-3920
Thank you I’m gonna have to check this out when I wake up is that harness for all the hook up ?


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Discussion Starter #9









I got my parts in for my 222 today ... new regulator/ harness / key switch that’s 4 pronged neutral switch something isn’t adding up here I got my solenoid as well seems like the ends arnt correct or do I have the wrong setup? I made sure to save the plug that would go into the regulator it has long wires on it as well to the coil which the harness would go to the coil as well I’m kinda confused here what’s kinda going on


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I got my parts in for my 222 today ... new regulator/ harness / key switch that’s 4 pronged neutral switch something isn’t adding up here I got my solenoid as well seems like the ends arnt correct or do I have the wrong setup? I made sure to save the plug that would go into the regulator it has long wires on it as well to the coil which the harness would go to the coil as well I’m kinda confused here what’s kinda going on
Looks like you have the earlier style solenoid (with small stud terminals) and the wiring harness is configured for the later style solenoid (with 1/4" blade terminals). You could fix that by changing the terminals on the harness. Or, I have seen adapters that come with some solenoids (basically a 1/4" wide piece of metal with a small hole in one end) that might be available separately.

Also looks like you have the neutral safety switch mounted upside down. The black wire (that is part of that switch assembly) should plug directly into one of the 2 terminals on the PTO clutch neutral start switch. Then another black wire (that is not part of the main harness) runs from the other terminal on the PTO switch to one of the small terminals on the starter solenoid. The yellow wire (from the ignition switch) goes to the other small terminal on the starter solenoid. Again, adapters or changing to ring terminals to match your solenoid will be needed here.

Of the 2 wires you're holding in your 2nd photo, the one with the blue insulated fork/spade terminal goes to the ignition coil + terminal. And I believe the one with the un-insulated quick connect is for the headlights. It plugs into a "Y" adapter that splits the connection to each headlight.

I believe the red wire you're holding in your 3rd photo (also with an un-insulated quick connect) should be inserted into the connector that plugs into the voltage regulator. You'll have to extract the old wire/terminal from the old harness if you haven't done so already. The other two cavities of that connector should be occupied by the wires from the stator.

The orange wire (with the inline fuse) should run from the "B" terminal on the ignition switch to the "-" terminal on the ammeter. And I believe the blue wire should run from the "+" terminal on the ammeter to one of the large stud terminals on the starter solenoid (same terminal as connected to the positive battery cable).
 

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I got my parts in for my 222 today ... new regulator/ harness / key switch that’s 4 pronged neutral switch something isn’t adding up here I got my solenoid as well seems like the ends arnt correct or do I have the wrong setup? I made sure to save the plug that would go into the regulator it has long wires on it as well to the coil which the harness would go to the coil as well I’m kinda confused here what’s kinda going on


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Difficult to tell what you got there, But.
Looking at several manuals within your serial # the one thing I don't see is a "blue coded wire". Page #30 on this manual (double check your serial number across to this manual) Inside the harness, there should be 7 wires. (No blue there that I can see. The wire that comes from the neutral start switch goes to the (Last picture you attached,) goes to another neutral start switch wire, normally in or around the clutch lever arm. 1 black wire (inside the harness) goes from that last switch, to the solenoid. Go page 30, wires are all clearly color coded, and follow that schematic (after you check serial number of your tractor). The one posted earlier in the thread, is a bit more difficult to follow, and it doesn't have the color to match to the wires. The below does. (Perhaps, that blue wire is supposed to replace the 1 black wire that goes from the lower neutral start switch, to the solenoid (one of the ends of the blue wire, would tend to show that, with that big eyelet it has, but it isn't exactly to the color code of the attached wire code attached below.) When looking at the picture on page 30, you'll notice the hash lines around the wires coming from ignition switch? All of those wires, inside those hash lines, should be included.

 

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Looking at several manuals within your serial # the one thing I don't see is a "blue coded wire". Page #30 on this manual (double check your serial number across to this manual) Inside the harness, there should be 7 wires. (No blue there that I can see.
Yeah, none of the diagrams I looked at show a blue wire either. Although, as I wrote in my earlier response, I believe that blue wire in the new harness is intended to take the place of the originally black wire that runs from the ammeter "+" to the large starter solenoid terminal that's shared with positive battery cable. The large diameter of the ring terminal installed on that wire would seem to fit with that.

(Perhaps, that blue wire is supposed to replace the 1 black wire that goes from the lower neutral start switch, to the solenoid (one of the ends of the blue wire, would tend to show that, with that big eyelet it has, but it isn't exactly to the color code of the attached wire code attached below.) When looking at the picture on page 30, you'll notice the hash lines around the wires coming from ignition switch? All of those wires, inside those hash lines, should be included.
That's also a possibility. Although I'd think it would have a smaller diameter ring terminal installed since the wire from the neutral start switch goes to one of the small starter solenoid terminals. Also, one of the other diagrams I was looking at (in the B1375 parts catalog from the Eastman site) shows that wire outside of the hash lines and lists it as a separate part (C25563), which would seem to indicate that it's not part of all main harnesses.
 

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Yeah, none of the diagrams I looked at show a blue wire either. Although, as I wrote in my earlier response, I believe that blue wire in the new harness is intended to take the place of the originally black wire that runs from the ammeter "+" to the large starter solenoid terminal that's shared with positive battery cable. The large diameter of the ring terminal installed on that wire would seem to fit with that.



That's also a possibility. Although I'd think it would have a smaller diameter ring terminal installed since the wire from the neutral start switch goes to one of the small starter solenoid terminals. Also, one of the other diagrams I was looking at (in the B1375 parts catalog from the Eastman site) shows that wire outside of the hash lines and lists it as a separate part (C25563), which would seem to indicate that it's not part of all main harnesses.
Yes, you are correct, on Eastman's manual it shows it outside the harness with a different part number. It's interesting that it would show as inside on the owners manual. Regardless, I couldn't find a blue wire in any of the manuals I've looked at,

The manual I attached was for this, which I believe has the owners serial # listed, fall within this manual,,
Case 220 PIN 9762275 to 14035005,
222 PIN 9763700 to14036630,
224 PIN 9765195 to 14038300,
444 PIN 9766840 to 14039740.
Operator's Manual 9-7072 and 9-7074


This manual, also shows it falling out of the harness, so it's not part of the harness.
 

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I've pulled a C25564 from new stock and compared to the wiring diagram in the parts manual. Not sure why colors have changed from the original production but regarding the mystery blue wire it should run from the solenoid terminal shared with the + battery cable to the ammeter as Ray notes. Yellow from key switch "start" terminal to starter solenoid primary (either one), orange with inline fuse from ammeter to key switch for power, black from key switch to headlights and last the double wire connector (red and black with white tracer) from the key switch to the regulator three wire plug (red) and the black/white tracer to the ignition coil +. The starter solenoid pictured is not OEM as it has studs instead of spades as mentioned, those connectors will have to be changed on the harness or the correct C33025 solenoid ordered and installed. Thanks to Ray and Lionel for their accurate input, you don't get this kind of support for your new big box store tractors.

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks guys I’ll send a little more detail response in little bit I’m at working for the time being I totally appreciate the comments .... the reason why I got a new harness is cause the other one was rather hacked I think they left alone the wire to the stator to the regulator from what it looks like





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The neutral start switch you have it your hand (in the below picture) don't throw it away,, Save it for now.
You may not like the new one you put in. If you look super close, you'll notice a difference, which you may like or may not like. Did you by chance, clean up the shift pin that resides in that neutral start switch? They wear out, which cause them to slip on those little grooves on the neutral start switch. A long chunk of sanding cloth typically can take care of that little detail,,,

Since you're into this wiring. It is now time to do this. Take an ohm meter, and test for continuity from the shift rod (anywhere on the rod), to the end of the black wire of the neutral start switch. Move the lever around a bit, do you get continuity all the time, (You should). If not, just post back here, and whiles you're doing the rewire, we can take care of this if it doesn't show continuity all the time. Intermittent continuity means, intermittent starting,,,, so it is quite important.

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Discussion Starter #17






The more I look at the wiring digram today I had the wrong solenoid for it went an exchanged what I got to another style so I had a 4 pronged solenoid.... I believe I have everything right now the only thing I did was slapped pin in the wiring on the safety neutral stuff at first I wasn’t getting any power I moved that blue wire to the top post that came from my battery an it started to crank that’s a positive note ... My question is would it be better to just bypass that switch or hook it up an see if it work? I have video of it cranking ..... it helped putting the motor in as well .... the other thing that I did was I took out one of the wire that connected the regulator an stator out an put in the wire from the new harness an now everything seems to be in place .... I appreciate all the help from everyone


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