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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
SO, there is power to the + side of the coil.
The coil has 4 ohm on the primary side and 14k on the secondary.
The points break and there is no spark across them.
I installed new points and condenser and nothing.
Adjusted the gap to .020.
I tried the coil off the other Onan and nothing.
I tried wiring power directly to the coil and nothing

So, to sum things up. There is no spark. I have a feeling Im overlooking something pretty simple. Thanks
 

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Points are nothing more than an ON/OFF switch that is controlled by the camshaft. Forget the points and condenser for the moment and let's focus on the coil.

DISCONNECT THE wire from the points that goes to the - terminal on the coil. Take a good piece of electrical wire that you know has continuity and firmly ground one end to the engine block. With the ignition key on (verify that you have 12 volts reaching the coil), take the other end of the wire and touch it to the - terminal on the coil and remove it instantly. You should get spark if the coil is good every time you touch and remove that grounded jumper wire. All YOU are doing is exactly what the points do. They turn the coil on and off.

If the coil gives you spark, then you need to check the continuity of the wire going between the coil and the points. Maybe it's broken internally or maybe it is shorting out. Maybe you have dirt or grease on the points. Maybe the actuator rod is sticking. Maybe the points are not grounding properly.

You are right.. this is something simple and you just need to divide and conquer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Funny thing is I typed this post and when I went back out there I sprayed some brake cleaner down the intake and it fired right up... LOL

Anyways!

Runs pretty lean. One of the intake manifold bolts is stripped, might be a problem. I was talking to Mr Onan, Boomer and he said use some propane to find any possible vacuum leaks. Good idea

Took it for its first drive. It was bucking like a bronco. Looked at the hydro tank and 1) it was low 2) it looked like milk. Sucked that out of there. Poured some other oil in, ran it with the end jacked up forward and back. Pulled that out and repeated that. Drives a whole lot better. The steering shaft needs new bushings, the ball joints are junk and the front axle pivot has some good wear.

Thanks for the help
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The intake manifold was definitely a problem. I could see the gap change when i pulled it by hand. I drilled the rivets out on the drill press so the holes would be straight. Then I clamped it together and ran the 10-32 tap down from the bottom up. Then I reamed out the bottom side so no threads were left. Slopped some gasket sealer on there, ran the nuts down. Came back 20 min later and tightened them, and left to cure overnight.



Went out to start it today and had the hardest time. I noticed that the clear fuel filter I had on there was empty. Looks like I will be in the market for a fuel pump. Once I got it started it runs much better and will go full throttle. Runs with about 1/3-1/2 choke now. Havent used the torch trick yet but that will be next. Maybe just try some seafoam or something in there and see if it can be worked out. Was going to try the mower deck but the clutch doesnt lock up. Went to go adjust that, couldnt figure out how to get the engine not to spin. Stuck some 3/16" fuel line in the cylinder worked great. Mustve been awhile since this was adjusted because it was a bear. Did get it adjusted, but too tight. When backing it off the nut broke at the wrath of the Knipex Cobra pliers LOL. So, $17 for a nut and $20 for a friction disk kit which I will pick up tomorrow.

Did take this baby up the road and it flys.

Pretty excited about it. Once the mechanics are squared away will do a paint job on the top side.
 
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