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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am new to the forum so maybe this question has already been asked. I put ag tires and loaded them with wind shield washer fluid .I am happy with them I also put narrow front rims with tri rib 4.80x8 tires.I now want to use the mower I saved the old summer tires but I need 8x16 rims.Did Case use rims that were used on trucks I know the half ton trucks were 8x16 in the fifties I would buy the rims but the cost of shipping to Canada is high.
As I mentioned in my other post I put a new style travel holding valve on my 69 case and I am putting the newer style lift lever by the steering wheel.
Two questions is the bracket that the linkage from the travel valve hooks to on the lift rod for up down is it welded or held in with a roll pin. If it is welded I think I will have to cut the lift lever rod in two pieces to fit it thru the hole I drilled in the dash and then weld the rod back together. Any help or ideas greatly appreaciated.
I envision great things for this forum I just hope hope it stays light and objective and does not turn into a my dads tougher than your dad or lets start WW3 over synthetic versus dino.
Kash
 

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Lots of old 16" rims were split rims. Stay away from them.
I believe with the bolt pattern your going to have to go with some tractor/implement rims if you can't find stock Case ones.
 

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john_holbik said:
I am new to the forum so maybe this question has already been asked. I put ag tires and loaded them with wind shield washer fluid .I am happy with them I also put narrow front rims with tri rib 4.80x8 tires.I now want to use the mower I saved the old summer tires but I need 8x16 rims.Did Case use rims that were used on trucks I know the half ton trucks were 8x16 in the fifties I would buy the rims but the cost of shipping to Canada is high.

There is more to locating a rim than just the diameter. Two things set the Case rims apart. The first is the bolt pattern which is 6 on 6 meaning there are six bolt holes on a six inch diameter circle. That is not a pattern used by road vehicles that I am aware of. Secondly there is a thing called "Offset" and that refers to where the bolt pattern sits in relation to the edge of the rim. You can have zero offset which means the bolt area is dead center with the width of the rim or you can have either positive or negative offsets that shift the bolt area closer to the inside or outside of the rim. There is precious little room between the drive motor and the left rear wheel. If you get the wrong offset, then you may not be able to bolt the wheel onto the tractor or it may affect your ability to trim alongside of flower beds when cutting the lawn. Of course, there is also rim width that must be correct for the size of tire used.

If your lawn is in clay soil and not soaking wet, then you may be able to get away with the Ags. If you have fragile grass in sandy, loam or wet areas, then the turfs are needed. Why not put a Wanted Ad on the Bulletin Board here at the site. Tell people where you are located and give them contact info.
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As I mentioned in my other post I put a new style travel holding valve on my 69 case and I am putting the newer style lift lever by the steering wheel.
Two questions is the bracket that the linkage from the travel valve hooks to on the lift rod for up down is it welded or held in with a roll pin. If it is welded I think I will have to cut the lift lever rod in two pieces to fit it thru the hole I drilled in the dash and then weld the rod back together. Any help or ideas greatly appreciated.

It is welded. You are doing something that has not been done before, to the best of my knowledge. However, the normal procedure is to remove the handle from the lever by using a heat gun to warm it substantially to break the grip of the glue. The handle end of the rod is then inserted through the plastic bushing in the dash from the UNDERSIDE and twisted into position. However..... trying to do this with the engine in place is impossible. You also need the correct cast steel cross bracket that supports the lower end of the steering column along with both levers. Since your tractor was built very early, the original bracket may not have the facility to accept the lift rod.

I envision great things for this forum I just hope hope it stays light and objective and does not turn into a my dads tougher than your dad or lets start WW3 over synthetic versus dino.

No need for you to worry about that. There are four people in ADMIN that keep a watchful eye on the forum.
Kash
 

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The original 69/70 style steering bracket doesn't have the position for the lift lever on it. So you will need to install the later rectangular bracket to make that work. This will also require drilling holes in the frame as the early bracket bolts to the upper parts of the channel and the newer bracket has the bolts coming in from the side. Not a big deal just more work if you had been aware of it. If you haven't done so already down load the parts manual for your early machine and one from the mid 70's and you can compare the brackets and mountings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
First I want to say a big thank you to all of you for the info .I finished installing the travel holding valve on my 69 442. I am very pleased.Heres how I did it I wanted the new style lift control on the dash and wanted to save my old lift handle and valve to use with quick connects for an auxiluary PTO.
Installed new travel hold valve 7/8 of an inch back drilled two new holes
extended linkages using 5/16 hardened ready rod
drilled hole threw dash at an angle drilled hole threw steering bracket at an angle installed plastic bushing in dash hole
I had a clutch control rod with bushing and piece for rod to fit in held to the rod with a roll pin I cut the rod two inches from the plastic handle bar grip this let me fit it threw the hole in the dash I measured the distance from the bottom of the rod to the bottom of the steering bracket and welded a length of rod in between I now had two rods the long one with a short bend and the handle grip one I threaded both ends and joined them with a coupling nut I could have welded them but this way I can unscrew and remove the rod with out having to pull the steering wheel painted them black
I drilled the rod two inches above the steering bracket and put the piece that the linkage goes threw on and secured with a roll pin I put a coil spring and washers I drilled a hole at the very bottom of the rod and installed a cotter pin to hold it down hooked up and adjusted the linkages.
I screwed around trying to bend the steel tubes but ended up useing new hose they worked really well as I used swivel 90 degree connectors so they tuck up out of sight
I also had to buy new hoses to the old style lift cylinder as the old ones were way short
I installed quick connects on the old lift valve
The only thing that looks different than the day the tractor left the factory is the added lift lever on the dash.
Hope this makes sense to someone anyhow thanks again for the help and the site
Kash
 

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Kash.... can we talk???? :sidelaugh: :sidelaugh:


I don't quite know what you mean when you say that you want to use the original Hy-lift valve on the right side of your dash tower as an "auxiliary PTO". This valve would be fine if you made a snow/dirt plow blade into a Power Angle blade. It might also work for a three point hitch if it has a "float" position at one end of its travel. What it cannot be used for is rear mounted attachments that use a hydraulic motor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I understand what you mean I never intend to have any motor driven equipment on the rear I use mine for plowing gravel and snow it was a pain to have your hand away from the steering wheel.Since the Hylift was already plumbed in and mounted it just made sense to me to leave it in place than if I want to make it original just put the two original hoses on and put two plug caps on the lift plugs on the travel valve.All I wanted was oil flow into the hylift vave and oil out then I can contol devices such as you said. Thanks
Kash
 
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