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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Good morning all,
I am in the process of fixing up my 44" mower deck and have a question regarding the spindle nuts (and how much to tighten them).
I replaced one of the outboard spindles, outboard bearings, and both outboard pulleys with new cast iron ones (and new woodruff keys) . All has gone well, but I'm not sure how much to tighten the jam nuts that hold the pulley onto the spindle. When I first cranked it down, I clearly went too far, because the blade did not turn. I backed it off but now I'm wondering if there is a rule of thumb for setting these nuts. Seems like a fine line between too tight and not tight enough.
Is there a spec for how tight?
Also, should I paint the spindle flange to prevent rust? Probably a bit late now that it's installed, but I could give it a bit of a rattle can paint job if it would help.

Thoughts?
Thanks in advance.

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122468
 

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These nuts should be super tight. We use an air impact to a 'very solid' joint degree of sound. This is likely in the range of 125-150 ft lbs on that 3/4 inch locking nut.

If your spindle would not turn after tightening, then something is incorrectly assembled in the spindle cross section. Perhaps missing a washer/spacer, or the spacer inside the housing (between the bearings).

I don't see the large washer or debris shield above the mower blade mount. I suppose also possible the new pulleys on the top are upside down, but seems that would be fairly easy to spot if the pulley is rubbing.

Refer to the parts manual illustration and make sure it is all in the right order.

Brian
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks, I'll recheck the manual and the assembly at lunch to see what I'm missing. The deck that I have does not have debris shields (just fender washers) and was functioning fine earlier this spring until my son hit a large rock and sheared one of the spindle plate from the weld (hence the new spindle). While I was in there I found that the outboard pulley keyways were reamed out so I replaced the pulleys. I believe they are in the correct orientation, but I'll double check those as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I tried mounting the pulley on both sides, and I did have it right, but after referring to the manual, it looks like I'm missing a bearing washer that goes between the pulley and the top bearing. The part number is C28972. I assume that this washer sits on top of the bearing (a bit proud of the housing flange) allowing the spindle nut to be cranked tight on the bearing and not the housing.

Does anyone know what the dimensions are and if it's the sort of thing that could be sourced locally?

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks Brian,
I just ordered 4. I will look around locally, but you can never have too many washers.
In my bin of misfit parts I found a few 3/4" x 1.5 x .060 inch washers, it seems like they would fit in the housing flange, but I assume that extra diameter would impede bearing?

-matt
 

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Good morning all,
I am in the process of fixing up my 44" mower deck and have a question regarding the spindle nuts (and how much to tighten them).
I replaced one of the outboard spindles, outboard bearings, and both outboard pulleys with new cast iron ones (and new woodruff keys) . All has gone well, but I'm not sure how much to tighten the jam nuts that hold the pulley onto the spindle. When I first cranked it down, I clearly went too far, because the blade did not turn. I backed it off but now I'm wondering if there is a rule of thumb for setting these nuts. Seems like a fine line between too tight and not tight enough.
Is there a spec for how tight?
Also, should I paint the spindle flange to prevent rust? Probably a bit late now that it's installed, but I could give it a bit of a rattle can paint job if it would help.

Thoughts?
Thanks in advance.

View attachment 122467

View attachment 122468
Matt,

The torque spec for the spindle nuts is 100 ft lbs. I torque the nuts down and then strike the shaft from top and bottom with a dead blow hammer (you could use a block of wood and a steel hammer) to seat the bearings and then retorque the nuts. If the blades to not turn freely and silently something is wrong. A missing washer under the top pulley will not make a difference, the problem is likely the spacer that is between the bearings, either missing or too short in length due to running with a loose retaining nut. Minimum length of the C10810 spacer is 1.823".

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Matt,

The torque spec for the spindle nuts is 100 ft lbs. I torque the nuts down and then strike the shaft from top and bottom with a dead blow hammer (you could use a block of wood and a steel hammer) to seat the bearings and then retorque the nuts. If the blades to not turn freely and silently something is wrong. A missing washer under the top pulley will not make a difference, the problem is likely the spacer that is between the bearings, either missing or too short in length due to running with a loose retaining nut. Minimum length of the C10810 spacer is 1.823".

Bob
Thanks Bob, that makes sense. I just placed an order with you for 2. BTW, I think I spoke with you on the phone a few weeks back when I ordered a spindle and 2 pulleys. It's nice to know that you and others in the business are monitoring this forum and helping out. Of course some day I will actually order all the parts at once instead of being a cheapskate and trying to replace the minimum # of parts. I always end up spending way more in shipping costs than if I had just bought everything at once.

-matt
 
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