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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

I've finally got around to editing some of the build for my FEL. Check out the first video, with more to come.


I have about 50 hours on the FEL, snow plowing, excavating a spot for my pool, moving heavy equipment and moving yards of gravel and sand around the back yard. Biggest issue was traction, but that was sorted with AG tires filled with washer fluid.
 

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Looking good. Like the editing too, gives the process with out drawing it out :thumbup: Some of those How I did it videos get so boring :speechless:

:cheers:
Gordy
 

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Your video was done well. I have one suggestion though. You should add some re-enforcement to the tractors frame. They have been known to crack under less stress than the loader will put on it. It will be better to do that now instead after the frame cracks.
 

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1973 Case 444, 1974 Case 644, 1976 Case 446, 1977 Case 646
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I agree with L.Fure. Reinforce the frame is an excellent idea. I liked your welds and I'm sure you realize that GMAW does not give much penetration. I would prefer to bevel the metal at the weld joints. Since your welds look so nice I would leave them alone and not grind them. They look much nicer than a lot of the original welds on these tractors. Just my opinion BRE!

Keep the Peace :trink:
Harry
 

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I agree with L.Fure. Reinforce the frame is an excellent idea. I liked your welds and I'm sure you realize that GMAW does not give much penetration. I would prefer to bevel the metal at the weld joints. Since your welds look so nice I would leave them alone and not grind them. They look much nicer than a lot of the original welds on these tractors. Just my opinion BRE!

Keep the Peace :trink:
Harry
I was wondering about the weld penetration too. I'm still old school and use a DC stick welder. I feel I get better penetration with it.
 

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A mig can penetrate,,,, burn through too.:facepalm: Just turn up the heat. Ask me how I know,,,,:eek: When you see deformation on the backside of the weld, you are getting warm.
 

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I like it. Nice work , as removed the lift cylinder(don't cut grass with it) on mine I went underneath with main support eliminating the chance of twisting the side rails under load . You might want to look at bracing that area . Waiting to see the rest of the build . :trink:
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks for the feedback. I'm always working on small improvements. My joke is that it will be ready for paint in 20 years.

I've been monitoring the frame and front end for any distortion or cracks and haven't seen any issues yet. The plan is to add few gussets, when I disassemble for paint.

The 3rd video shows some more support bracing. You might want to check that out.

I have about 50 hours on it now, moving loads around the yard. It's designed to replace my wheel barrow and make life easy around the house. I don't rely on the tractor to make an income, so if it needs repairs, I fix it and and continue on.

Last summer I dug up about 8 yards of dirt, levelled a pool with 2 yards of sand. It got hot but didn't let me down. I also use it to plow the driveway and move my boat around. I have a set of forks, but I don't often used them due to weight restrictions

Upgrades are usually done in spring and fall, when I can afford the down time with it.
 

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I see you shop at P.A. for your cylinders as well. Why did you go with 3" cylinders ? I have 2" surelift on Frankie and still have more than enough to lift the rear wheels off the ground and the rear tire are loaded and with ballast the rear weight is about 1400 lbs with me in the seat !
Dave
 

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That make more sense . I am doing more up grades to Frankie (446 on steroids ). Been trying to up load picks but ever since the smart a$$ phone did an update it won't talk to the computer . So where are you located , I am up near Midland .
Dave
 
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