Case 448 snowcaster belt options

Several factors contribute to premature V belt failure on tractors with a mechanical clutch:
Case and Ingersoll have been particular about V belt widths in designing attachment drives. Many of their V belts are 9/16" wide which is not a common width in the industry where 1/2" and 5/8" are. It is important to have the correct OEM V belt on these tractors.
Another problem is worn pulleys, as the belt is going onto and away from the pulley it can get snagged in a worn pulley, the heat from the friction will heat up the belt and cause it to fail prematurely.
Worn bearings in pulleys to include the bearings in the clutch of which there are three, can also cause problems with the belt.
Shim Adjust and EZ Adjust clutches are installed on 200 and 400 series tractors and if they are slipping, the drive pulley which has the friction disc mounted to it will get hot and actually cause the belt to soften or burn if the temperature gets high enough.
3000 and 4000 series tractors have electric clutch/brakes installed rather than mechanical clutches however the attachments are similarly driven. Electric clutches have their own possible set of problems, some similar to mechanical clutches.

Haddon 448 said:

Hi,

I just got my first Case tractor and I’m thrilled! As expected I am learning how to use it and I am finding a few challenges. Specifically, the blower seems to be eating belts. I replaced the belt that came on the blower because it was frayed and jumped off twice in the first 10 minutes. The picture is from a new 81x1/2 belt that was only used for about 20 minutes. I am told that original was 80.5 and it appears that tension bar is a little misaligned. What belt is recommended?

Click to expand...

OK, first problem is I recognize that belt and they are crap. I have that same sno-caster on my 446 Demonstrator. Now for the fun part (and I know this will start an argument) CASE/Ingersoll used several different clutch pulleys. There are at least 2 different diameters (1 is a half inch bigger) and at least 2 different groove widths. (I have a collection of these, been down this path before and no I am not going to dig them out and take photos again)

I use mine professionally (some of you know this and occasionally in the past give me a light hearted ribbing about using my demonstrator for real work)

The best and least expensive belt I have found (and holds up extremely well) is a JASON Industrial B79, red and white label sleeve. Typically about $10 these days. (However a few places like to gouge you on the price) I usually get a full season out of them and occasionally several (but occasionally go through several a season)

If needed I can run a 5L820 but prefer the Jason B79
Things you need to check, adjust/repair as needed.
#1, mule drive attachment. If your lower frame guide pins are worn out, replace them! If your lower frame guide pin ears are bent, straighten them out. Inspect your mule drive lower attachment slots for wear, weld and regrind them into size as needed. The upper attachment points rarely give trouble but the lowers take a real beating.

#2, sno-caster to mule drive pivot points. If they are sloppy, fix as needed. When worn they can do some silly things like belt alignment and maintaining belt tracking and tension issues.

#3, Belt tensioner pivot wear. If its flopping around, you'll be fighting belt alignment. Same goes for the idler and tensioner pulleys.

#4, Tensioner spring. Once you have sorted out mounting and piviot wear, work your snow caster up and down and right to left twist. Watch that spring! Ideally, you want to see at least 1.5 times the spring wire diameter as a gap between turns with no less than gap = wire diameter.

Today I dealt with 9.5 inches of very wet heavy snow here in Arkansas and the old girl did just fine on what is now her 3rd season on this belt. I wish I could have shot video today but had zero time. However here is a video from 12 years ago.

446 Demonstrator W/Snocaster