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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here are some pictures of my 646 project tear down.

I am having trouble removing the loader arms at the moment. The pins, cylinders and hydraulic lines have been removed or disconnected. I can't get the main connecting rod to move in/out to release the arms. (It will rotate up/down as the loader arms are lifted/lowered.) I have been spraying everything down with PB Blaster for two days with no progress. According to the parts book, it looks like I have everything removed so I am at peak confusion. :headscratcher:

Any suggestions are welcomed.

Before


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PITA Rod
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
The rod is out...

Brian Hildreth quoted a new rod at @$60 shipped and they are in stock.

I would like to thank the good people at Dewalt for all of their help with the removal! :chopwood:

The rod was completely bound up at the two places that it was designed not to be. In the two bushings that have grease fittings. If people would only take better care of quality equipment.

Progress updates and more pictures soon.
 

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JSB Case said:
The rod is out...The rod was completely bound up at the two places that it was designed not to be. In the two bushings that have grease fittings. If people would only take better care of quality equipment.
You can lead an owner to grease zerks, but you can't make him think.
 

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Rob_P said:
[quote="JSB Case":3ui4vvf4]The rod is out...The rod was completely bound up at the two places that it was designed not to be. In the two bushings that have grease fittings. If people would only take better care of quality equipment.
You can lead an owner to grease zerks, but you can't make him think.[/quote:3ui4vvf4]

Ha ha ha !! :sidelaugh:

Maynard :canada:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The loader is off, and the engine is out of the chassis.

I pulled the engine tins and heads for cleaning and decarbonizing and I didn't like what I found. The piston heads and cylinders look OK, BUT the valves are rusty and aren't working properly. What do I do now? I have very limited experience in this market and all suggestions are welcomed. (Maybe even a new Castoff checklist?)





 

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I don't know what sort of list that butthead castoff gave you but my advice is this.

1. you should be making a written log of the order you remove parts from that tractor

2. you should be taking lots of photos of every area of the tractor so you have a visual reference as to how things WERE put together. The parts book should help you figure out how things SHOULD be put together and you can check the photos against the parts book to see what was messed with.

3. I would have left the engine totally alone and totally together. For now, I would focus solely on stripping the tractor to the bare frame. Once the frame has been checked, repaired, primed and painted, the assembling can begin. When the tractor is sitting back on all four wheels and 60 percent of the parts are installed, that's when I'd check out the engine. Pulling too much apart at one time is a recipe for disaster unless you have one separate large workbench to dismantle the engine on it's own and not need that bench for anything else.

4. I'd talk to that Boomer dude about my engine cuz he's a lot smarter than Castoff when it comes to Onan's.

5. If you have not ordered decals, do it now. You cannot begin to put the tractor back together until the dash decal is nicely installed on the freshly painted frame.

6. Once the frame is painted and the dash decal is installed, focus on installing the steering, control levers, implement lift, control valves etc. In other words. leave the trans-axle and front axle until all that small fiddly stuff is back together such as the brake pedal . With help, you can lift the frame, lay it onto a table with an old comforter on it to protect the paint while you are feeding stuff in from the top and the bottom and connecting it up. Of course, if you like laying the floor to do stuff............
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I guess that my question was a little vague. I was asking what to do next with the engine.

My reason for tearing into the engine was to see where I stand with it. The tractor was purchased as a non-runner, so I had no idea what I might have to do to get it running properly. If I need a skilled mechanic or machinist, that is time and money that I have to figure into the entire project.

Thank you for reminding me about the dash decal... The mailman delivered the decal kit this morning and I forgot to order one for the dash.

I do have a battle plan for the paint and repair of the chassis. I have been taking pictures of the not-so-obvious items and I always have my brother's 646 to look at if I need a hint.

So, my question should have read something more like "What should I do to get this engine back in order?"

:trink:
 

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You are going this far with the tractor then why not go that far with the engine. Replace what is needed and freshen up the block. You will be glad you spent the time and money on getting the engine running the correct way.

Do you have a machine shop in your area that can take a good look at your engine for you and offer you some advice?
 

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JSB Case said:
I guess that my question was a little vague.
No sir. Your question was not the slightest bit vague. I was just pretending that I was butthead Castoff and gave you my own list. :sidelaugh:

I was asking what to do next with the engine. And I answered that with #4. This engine has sat for a long time. Moisture has got into it. Rust is not a good thing for valves and valve seats. These are expensive engines to rebuild if you blow them up. I would not attempt to just free up the valves, stick the heads on and start ti up. I'm not suggesting that's what you had in mind but I'm just covering all the bases like Castoff would.

Your best friend when it comes to this engine will be Boomer. He has his finger on the pulse when it comes to Onan's. He's torn lots of them down. He has engines and parts on hand. He is one of my select crew that made up the first 14 members of this site.

Considering what is revealed by removing the heads, I believe that Boomer will tell you to dismantle the entire engine and get a machine shop to mic the bores to determine how much wear has taken place. To me, that's where you start. Now let's say that they mic out just fine. Then at that point, you need to have them examine the pistons, rods and crank. If you are lucky, you may get away with doing a valve job, hone and cross-hatch the cylinders, polish the crank and put new rings on the existing pistons.


My reason for tearing into the engine was to see where I stand with it. The tractor was purchased as a non-runner, so I had no idea what I might have to do to get it running properly. If I need a skilled mechanic or machinist, that is time and money that I have to figure into the entire project.

Thank you for reminding me about the dash decal... The mailman delivered the decal kit this morning and I forgot to order one for the dash.

I do have a battle plan for the paint and repair of the chassis. I have been taking pictures of the not-so-obvious items and I always have my brother's 646 to look at if I need a hint.

So, my question should have read something more like "What should I do to get this engine back in order?"

:trink:
Have I covered it all now or should I call up Castoff and get him to join? :sidelaugh: :sidelaugh: :sidelaugh:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I would be much more comfortable having a pro take it from here. I will get in touch with Boomer and try to find a competent local machine shop.

Hydriv said:
Have I covered it all now or should I call up Castoff and get him to join? :sidelaugh: :sidelaugh: :sidelaugh:
Thanks for the good advice hydriv. That Castoff dude would be great to have around, but he probably wouldn't last too long before getting himself into trouble!! :sidelaugh:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Another update.

Still waiting for the engine to return from the rebuild... So, I have been keeping busy picking away at the body. I have been stripping the paint down to bare metal with a grinder and wire cup brush. Then, I clean and prime the parts with self etching primer so nothing has time to flash rust. Can I use epoxy primer on top of the self etching primer? I just want the best finish possible with my limited body work experience. Here are some more progress pics.






 

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No, you cant put epoxy over self etching. I would use the epoxy by itself. Get an electric random orbital if you dont have air and put 80 grit pattern on the metal and you will be suprised how durable it is. Looks good
 
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