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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all, I replaced my transmission fluid and noticed it leaking out of the axle ends. I figured I would replace the seals. When I opened it up it appears the gears are welded. Am I missing something? Unserviceable now?
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'68 - Case 155, '73 - 646a
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Wow, that might just be welded. Its supposed to have a 'C' clip on the end of the Axles so you can pull them out. and looks kind of like this:


Since a 648 has the SAME rear end casting (unless this is a Webbed - Backhoe rear end) and gears as any of the 2xx, 4XX and 30xx, 40xx tractors, you should be able to source a replacement rear end (complete) from a lot of places... The drive motors are different on the small wheel tractors. but otherwise they're the same casting and gears.

Based on what I have picked up used entire rear ends for, torching out that welding and buying a set of axles plus the gears could run more than an entire used rear end.

Where are you located?? Since I have some parts in my Barn, as do a whole lot of other folks.

I'm attaching a print out of an old thread, the online pictures are GONE so this is the best I can do, but it shows the various models of rear castings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Wow, that might just be welded. Its supposed to have a 'C' clip on the end of the Axles so you can pull them out. and looks kind of like this:


Since a 648 has the SAME rear end casting (unless this is a Webbed - Backhoe rear end) and gears as any of the 2xx, 4XX and 30xx, 40xx tractors, you should be able to source a replacement rear end (complete) from a lot of places... The drive motors are different on the small wheel tractors. but otherwise they're the same casting and gears.

Based on what I have picked up used entire rear ends for, torching out that welding and buying a set of axles plus the gears could run more than an entire used rear end.

Where are you located?? Since I have some parts in my Barn, as do a whole lot of other folks.

I'm attaching a print out of an old thread, the online pictures are GONE so this is the best I can do, but it shows the various models of rear castings.
So it does have the d100 hoe on it. Is that a different rear end? I'm in Michigan. Thanks for the reply!
 

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1973 Case 444, 1974 Case 644, 1976 Case 446, 1977 Case 646
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IMHO I would lean towards trying to find another rear end, like Scott had mentioned. Getting the welded axles loose from the gears could be a very tedious job and still need new axles and gears.

Keep the Peace
Harry
 

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NBROWN, am I correct that this is a backhoe unit? If so, regardless you need to save the axle housing, which will I am sure feature the gusseted axle tubes and BH bearing ends.

As noted, a gear set could be easily sourced if you damage it during removal. The axle shaft is unique to BH models, so best to do what you can to preserve it, if possible. New axle shafts are available, but surely not free.

Brian
 

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If it's not a backhoe model, then you should probably just source a replacement rear end.

If it IS a backhoe model and you need to preserve the axles, then I'd go after those welds using a long neck electric die grinder like this: Long Shaft 1/4" Collet Straight Electric Die Grinder 789611013936 | eBay

and mount a small round ball carbide burr in it something like this: 1/4" SD-1 Spherical Ball Shape Burr 1/4" Shank, DoubleCut, Carbide | eBay

The idea is to jack up the rear and, and with th carrier held still, reach in there with running cutter and cut away at the weld while you slowly rotate the axle shaft.

The rear end will then have to be totally torn down and cleaned before re-assembly.

It would be a TOTAL pain, but it could be done. Once you have the axle out, it'll need to be welded to build it back up to full-round and then have the c-clip slot re-machined.

Or you COULD weld it back the way you found it, but then you're leaving the same mess you're facing now for the next guy down the line.

But I personally wouldn't judge you. It does belong to you, and it's not any worse than it is now.

Bob
 

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I doubt if the splines on the axles are savable with the welding in the area. No doubt the C ring grooves are botched up also. Not many options to get the axles to come out!
This transaxle was probably full of water, so if the axles are able to be removed, the rest of the internal area will need to be cleaned and inspected. If this housing is the non ribbed version, I would recommend finding a serviceable assembly. If this tractor is a backhoe model, then the real fun will start finding another assembly and or parts to make one!:cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
NBROWN, am I correct that this is a backhoe unit? If so, regardless you need to save the axle housing, which will I am sure feature the gusseted axle tubes and BH bearing ends.

As noted, a gear set could be easily sourced if you damage it during removal. The axle shaft is unique to BH models, so best to do what you can to preserve it, if possible. New axle shafts are available, but surely not free.

Brian
It is a Bh model. I was able to pop off the one really bad axle side and seal because of a poor weld on the gear. The gears seem in fine shape except the leading edge of the shifting gear on the small one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
If it's not a backhoe model, then you should probably just source a replacement rear end.

If it IS a backhoe model and you need to preserve the axles, then I'd go after those welds using a long neck electric die grinder like this: Long Shaft 1/4" Collet Straight Electric Die Grinder 789611013936 | eBay

and mount a small round ball carbide burr in it something like this: 1/4" SD-1 Spherical Ball Shape Burr 1/4" Shank, DoubleCut, Carbide | eBay

The idea is to jack up the rear and, and with th carrier held still, reach in there with running cutter and cut away at the weld while you slowly rotate the axle shaft.

The rear end will then have to be totally torn down and cleaned before re-assembly.

It would be a TOTAL pain, but it could be done. Once you have the axle out, it'll need to be welded to build it back up to full-round and then have the c-clip slot re-machined.

Or you COULD weld it back the way you found it, but then you're leaving the same mess you're facing now for the next guy down the line.

But I personally wouldn't judge you. It does belong to you, and it's not any worse than it is now.

Bob
Thanks! Weighing options.... Would the backhoe have to be removed for the transmission to be pulled?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I doubt if the splines on the axles are savable with the welding in the area. No doubt the C ring grooves are botched up also. Not many options to get the axles to come out!
This transaxle was probably full of water, so if the axles are able to be removed, the rest of the internal area will need to be cleaned and inspected. If this housing is the non ribbed version, I would recommend finding a serviceable assembly. If this tractor is a backhoe model, then the real fun will start finding another assembly and or parts to make one!:cool:
It is a backhoe model 😬
 

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1973 Case 444, 1974 Case 644, 1976 Case 446, 1977 Case 646
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I have used a plasma cutting machine to scarf off welds, but it may be hard to reach into the area to do that. I think grinding with a Dremel might be your best option.

Keep the Peace
Harry
 

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Open to any ideas. Only have a mig though.
Well, especially if you've already gotten one side out, then you have a good sense of what is preventing you from pulling the other side out: that weld is acting as a fat ring that's preventing that axle from sliding out of there. By whatever means you have to get that weld cut down so that it's no longer has the ring and the axle shaft joined together, and it's no longer too fat to slide out through the hole in that gear.

My best guess at this point is the long neck die grinder like I described above. They make them in both air and electric, either one would work.

As far as the disassembly, other people would know better than me, but I'm pretty sure you can completely disassemble that rear end in place without removing the backhoe. Once you've pulled the axles out all the other gears and the carrier I think will come straight out the top. And you obviously already have the top open.

It does really look like this thing has had some water sit in it, so your gears and shafts are probably not in good condition. So I think you'd be well served to inspect all the contents and put it back together with parts that are up to spec. Whether that be new or used.

If I were in your shoes, I think I would reuse those existing axles and just weld it back together when I'm done. It's way less than ideal, but finding the proper axle for the backhoe model can be really hard to do. If you could just spend a couple hundred bucks and get them off the shelf that'd be great but you can't. So the welding may have to be good enough.
The one caveat I would make is that I don't think I would weld it together until I had function tested it with the wheels up in the air. In order to be absolutely certain that I have it back together correctly, I'd want to power up the machine and drive the wheels forward and reverse in both gears before I actually put the final weld in place to lock the axles to those bevel gears.

Of course if I personally had the machine here, I would weld build up the axles and machine them back to factory specs and reinstall them with the proper c clip. If you know a competent machine/job shop in your area, they could do the same. I'm not saying it would be cheap. But it is a bird in hand, and the job would then be done correctly. Especially if you're going to run this machine enough that you'll need to redo those bearings and seals at a later date.

Bob
 
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