Case Colt Ingersoll Tractors banner
1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all, I replaced my transmission fluid and noticed it leaking out of the axle ends. I figured I would replace the seals. When I opened it up it appears the gears are welded. Am I missing something? Unserviceable now?
Motor vehicle Grille Automotive tire Bumper Automotive exterior
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Wow, that might just be welded. Its supposed to have a 'C' clip on the end of the Axles so you can pull them out. and looks kind of like this:


Since a 648 has the SAME rear end casting (unless this is a Webbed - Backhoe rear end) and gears as any of the 2xx, 4XX and 30xx, 40xx tractors, you should be able to source a replacement rear end (complete) from a lot of places... The drive motors are different on the small wheel tractors. but otherwise they're the same casting and gears.

Based on what I have picked up used entire rear ends for, torching out that welding and buying a set of axles plus the gears could run more than an entire used rear end.

Where are you located?? Since I have some parts in my Barn, as do a whole lot of other folks.

I'm attaching a print out of an old thread, the online pictures are GONE so this is the best I can do, but it shows the various models of rear castings.
So it does have the d100 hoe on it. Is that a different rear end? I'm in Michigan. Thanks for the reply!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
NBROWN, am I correct that this is a backhoe unit? If so, regardless you need to save the axle housing, which will I am sure feature the gusseted axle tubes and BH bearing ends.

As noted, a gear set could be easily sourced if you damage it during removal. The axle shaft is unique to BH models, so best to do what you can to preserve it, if possible. New axle shafts are available, but surely not free.

Brian
It is a Bh model. I was able to pop off the one really bad axle side and seal because of a poor weld on the gear. The gears seem in fine shape except the leading edge of the shifting gear on the small one.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
If it's not a backhoe model, then you should probably just source a replacement rear end.

If it IS a backhoe model and you need to preserve the axles, then I'd go after those welds using a long neck electric die grinder like this: Long Shaft 1/4" Collet Straight Electric Die Grinder 789611013936 | eBay

and mount a small round ball carbide burr in it something like this: 1/4" SD-1 Spherical Ball Shape Burr 1/4" Shank, DoubleCut, Carbide | eBay

The idea is to jack up the rear and, and with th carrier held still, reach in there with running cutter and cut away at the weld while you slowly rotate the axle shaft.

The rear end will then have to be totally torn down and cleaned before re-assembly.

It would be a TOTAL pain, but it could be done. Once you have the axle out, it'll need to be welded to build it back up to full-round and then have the c-clip slot re-machined.

Or you COULD weld it back the way you found it, but then you're leaving the same mess you're facing now for the next guy down the line.

But I personally wouldn't judge you. It does belong to you, and it's not any worse than it is now.

Bob
Thanks! Weighing options.... Would the backhoe have to be removed for the transmission to be pulled?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I doubt if the splines on the axles are savable with the welding in the area. No doubt the C ring grooves are botched up also. Not many options to get the axles to come out!
This transaxle was probably full of water, so if the axles are able to be removed, the rest of the internal area will need to be cleaned and inspected. If this housing is the non ribbed version, I would recommend finding a serviceable assembly. If this tractor is a backhoe model, then the real fun will start finding another assembly and or parts to make one!:cool:
It is a backhoe model 😬
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Ok, another crazy/unconventional idea: Instead of welding it back together, maybe you have room to drill through the axle shaft in a couple places and drive in some roll pins. I'd guess 2 roll pins per axle end, about 3/16" diameter. 1/4" would be great, I don't know if you have room for that or not. The larger you can fit the better, and two rather than one because if you're operating the machine on the side of a hill there can be some meaningful force trying to pull the axle outward. Multiple pins will serve to spread the force around the perimeter of the bevel gear so you don't get a big single point load in any one spot.

Something like this:
View attachment 126624

That way you get sufficient strength, sufficient maintainability, and cheap cost, since you can do it yourself.

In a perfect world, I'd get the weld ground out, and then immediately slide the axle back in place drill for the roll pins, so that you only have to clean metal shavings out the gearbox a single time.

Hope it helps.

Bob
Certainly something Im going to put on the board! Just trying to get the last axle out. Thanks!
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top