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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, perhaps a dumb question but where does one get a replacement scraper edge for a blade?

I have what I believe is a H54 blade and the edge is worn down, not all the way to the main blade body but it's almost there. Something tells me this might be expensive, part number is C15525

Also need a linkage arm, not the one from the blade to the tractor but the smaller vertical one, mine is missing and the prior owner(s) bent a piece of rebar to make the lift work. Parts book states it's a C16531. Can anyone provide measurements of the rod, that would work too so that I can make something a little better.

Thanks
 

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Don't know if an L54 is the same, but I will measure my linkage arm tonight when I get home if nobody has gotten you an answer by then. (That's highly unlikely, some of these guys are walking manuals-totally amazes me how much info is in their heads) If one has a shop, one can also make their own cutting edge. Might not be cost effective if one has to buy the material though.
 

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The H blade is unique.

It is the very first Snap Fast style model and.....unlike the J, K, L etc models that came after, the lift arm passes OVER the front axle and needs no adapter plate on the bell crank to hook it up. Therefore, it is the only blade that uses the C-link that was replaced by rebar.

As for the cutting edge, there is nothing special about it other than the square holes for the carriage bolts. However, while carriage bolts are nice.........they are not essential. Use stainless steel with nylock nuts instead or just use ordinary zinc-plated hex head machine bolts with nylock nuts. Change the thickness of the edge steel from 1/8 to 3/16 or even 1/4 if you wish. Remove your old edge, clamp it to a new length of regular steel flatbar and use it for a template to drill the attachment holes.

If you can find the hardened steel (AZ) then so much the better.
 

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I've made several of these using 2"x1/4" bar stock which is relatively cheap when purchased in full lengths--not at Home Depot! You can square up the holes with a tapered square drift if you can find one otherwise a small hand file can do the job. I like the 1/4" material better because it doesn't chatter as much as the thinner material and wears longer. For extra wear you can run a bead of hardened steel on the edge.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks!

I will check out a couple shops in my area, I have friend who works at steel supply business and I bet he can fix me up with the blade edge. I will give Brian a shout out too but I would think shipping would be high.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
bhildret said:
Shipping is not free ... but $16.95 gets a blade and link there ...

Brian
Are you saying that the blade and lift pin rod is $16.95 or just the lift pin rod? If it's both I need to contact you to get the shipping fees to send it to zip code 65201. BUT.....

I made myself a new link which according to measurements that Bart provided, now I have a problem in that the rod (it's a home made stell bar too) is too short so the blade isn't going all the way down and when it comes up, it almost hits the hood.

I need either the measurements of the main lift arm that connects from the rockshaft lift on the tractor to the blade (it goes above the front right tire, not under). I'm think I can make this myself which I believe I should be a calculate the length I need by adding the existing length of what I have and add the distance that I need to blade to go down further.

Thanks Brian!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Hydriv said:
Looks like Bart needs to give you the correct measurement for the H-blade lift arm. Perhaps someone made the one you have now and it's too short.
Yes, it appears to have been made to fit when the prior owner(s) fabricated the rebar for the smaller lift rod the also found a long piece of steel to make the main lift arm too short. It's a very heavy 1/2 inch steel bar that I can tell is not "OEM" as there are cut parts on it's edge.

Something that may had an effect was that the rear pivot pin near the mule was lost and had been replaced with bolts so the entire blade was loose. I had a old steering wheel rod that had bad teeth at the end which I made a new pin out of that which helped tighten everthing up. Today if I have time I need to see what I can do to replace the main center bolt that the blade pivots on as that's the only really loose part.

I was lucky after I put the blade back togather, had the long lift arm been any shorter when I raised the blade all the way up, it would have crushed the top front of the newly painted hood that I just just put new decals from Maple Hunter on..... I would have uttered a few words that wouldn't have been proper for young children to hear.

Need to do a little forum searching, I think I have seen the main lift arm length discussed in the past here or somewere else.
 

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I made several of those lift arms and they are quite easy to fabricate. I used some old 3/4" water pipe I had laying around. I heated the ends with a torch and flattened them with a BFH. The way to get the length right is put some blocks under the blade to get it to the desired maximum height, move the attachment lift to to maximum lift position and then measure the distance between the two pins.
 
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