[ckain]

HI, I have not had experience with the EZ clutch assembly. My 442 & 220 just always worked. recently I aquired a 1979 446. The mower would spin but had no power to mow. Blades would stop turning. I discovered if I pressed and held the pto lever, the blades would keep spinning. ( and the pto lever did not 'snap' in as expected ). So I thought the clutch might need adjusting. Then I discovered there were no spring washers. Some po apparently had worked over this clutch assy.

What is the purpose of the spring washers ? I figure they just indirectly drive the fan.
Anyway, I know somethings wrong and/or somethings missing. I obtained new spring washers and now cannot get the parts (with washers) to fit on the shaft. not enough lenght. I following IPB.
There are not many parts, from the bearing to hex nut. I have 2 inches of shaft available from the first bearing. Anyone know if that is normal ? Thanks, CKain

 

[Hydriv]

You must go to the Tech Library/Service Manuals/Clutch section and review the information contained in those bulletins.

First of all, the main shaft of the clutch that everything else sits on must be reasonably straight and smooth. When it was new, the shaft was totally smooth and all the same diameter along its entire length. Over time, the shaft begins to get worn where the bearings sit on it and the wear can become grooves with sharp edges that interfere with making proper clutch adjustments.

Secondly, it is critical that you put EVERY part shown in the exploded diagram in the clutch manual onto the shaft in the correct order and quantity. If you do not pay attention to this part of the procedure, you will have nothing but grief trying to set up the clutch.

The fan is actually bolted solidly to the main shaft. It does not rely on the spring washers to drive it. The spring washers are there to keep the clutch disc from contacting the pressure plate when the clutch is disengaged. The condition of the spring washers and the two cup washers (Belleville washers) is also important. If they lack tension, then they cannot do their job. You must also pay attention to the positioning of the cams when you install the clutch throwout fork. Working on these clutches for the first time is a bit intimidating but if you read the manual carefully several times and take your time assembling the clutch, you can master it. Even if you bought a brand new clutch, you would still have to take it all apart, install the main shaft on the engine and then place all the parts onto that shaft in the correct order before doing the final adjustment. In other words, one way or the other you are going to have to bite the bullet and learn how to do this.... especially since you now have 3 tractors with this clutch.

 

[CASE 220/4]

ckain, I just rebuilt two PTO clutches and took a ton of pics of it and posted them here in a thread that I believe is in the workshop section. I replaced everything on it including the old shaft. I highly suggest that you do the same and rebuild your old unit. That 442 isnt exactly a new machine and most likely needs a clutch overhaul anyway. Let us know if you need any help.

 

[ckain]

Thanks for the tips, I have studied the manual extensively. I don't ask for help quickly. I can reassemble about anything that ' I ' disassemble, however this tractor came messed up. When I asked about spring washers, item 12 in the IPB, I was referring to the 'Belleville' washers. I assume they keep pressure on clutch for staying engaged. I realize no one can determind my problem afar, my main question is why I don't seem to have enough shaft length. (if it has the correct bolt ?) I have no 'extra' parts involved, matching up what I have taken off with the manual. However I did not go past the two bearings, so I will remove the complete assy and see what I can figure out.
thanks again

 

[Hydriv]

You are correct. The two Belleville washers are there to put pressure on the clutch assembly when it is engaged. This is the "force" you feel when pushing the PTO engagement lever forward. You are also correct in your decision to dismantle the clutch down to the main shaft and inspect each item. There have been changes in how the clutch parts were manufactured and that is noted in the thread that Brad mentioned in his post above. I also suggest that you remove the bearings from the clutch pieces they are inserted into and carefully inspect them to make sure they are worthwhile to use again. You might be further ahead replacing them right now and thereby eliminating a potential early failure of the clutch. Those bearings MUST be inserted fully into the cams or you will have a problem fitting everything on the shaft.

If you are still having problems, then it would be helpful if you took some photos and posted them in this thread.



The length of the main shaft is 2 15/16" and the threaded bolt is 2".

 

[dwag]

During assembly the inner bellville spring will fit on shaft but outer spring has to be centered/lined up while tightening 1/2" nut, which draws assembly together. I actually prefer the old style shim type clutch over the EZ adjust type. john

 

[Hydriv]

If any of you guys found the need to reglue the friction disc to the clutch plate, what did you use for cement and how well did it work?

 

[Bart]

I found a loose one and glued it back with contact cement and it's still there. When you think about it you can understand that the bond of the disc to the plate doesn't have to be particularly strong because you've really got two plates squeezing the friction disc and all the mastic needs to do is add a little more friction to one side than the other.

 

[Mjoe7]

If any of you guys found the need to reglue the friction disc to the clutch plate, what did you use for cement and how well did it work?

I think MacGyver said he used some Trident chewing gum from the neighbor girl until he was able to make up his own cement from house hold cooking supplies. :gums:

 

[ckain]

Thanks for reply. I don't chew gum so will go with a 2 part epoxy. I have that on hand or would use Weldwood's contact cement. Guess the worse case (lol) senario is I would have to do it again, next year.
I was wondering if heat, in the clutch operaton, would be a concern.

 

[Bart]

I would NOT use epoxy as you'll never be able to clean it off if you need to reline the clutch again. The contact cement is quick, easy and inexpensive.

 

[Billygoat]

With contact adhesive, if you coat both parts and let it sit like the directions say, put it on in the correct place as re-positioning will be next to impossible. I helped put on Formica countertops back in the day with this stuff. Once you stick it-it's stuck!

 

[ckain]

Re: Case EZ clutch-still need help

Well, I don't think my friction disc was 'supposed' to be fixed to the pulley. I found reference in one manual that some have a pulley with a shoulder that 'holds' the disc.
Either way, being glued on should not be a problem.

I do have a problem getting this all back together. I have all parts listed, EXCEPT item 16, listed as a spacer. I would like to know what thickness it should be ? If thats important.

When I adjusted the nut to set the clutch gap, the nut ran into the larger part of shaft, before the clutch was even down to .010 . ??
According to the serial number, this is the correct manual: 446-9768450

http://www.manuals.casecoltingersoll.co ... marked.pdf

 

[CASE 220/4]

ckain, the part you are missing cost $3.10 from a dealer.
http://www.casegardentractorparts.com/c2spezad.html

Order new wave washers and spacers per the manual for your tractor and assemble it just as it is pictured in the manual. The thickness and order of the spacers and wave washers will be determined by which style pulley you have. Post up a picture of it and I will be able to tell you if you have the style without a shoulder or the style with the shoulder.

On a side note, It cost $20 for a new friction disc from the dealer. I would never even consider trying to reglue a used disc to the pulley when the cost of a new one is only pocket change. To me, its just not worth the risk of the bonding agent not holding up. It would really suck to have to take it all back apart again.

BTW, all friction disc are supposed to be bonded to the pulley.

 

[ckain]

OK . And I do have a pulley with a hub on it, and the friction disc fits right the hub nicely.
curious, there is no sign of any adhesive on the disc or pulley face.
I will order that spacer. Thank you..

 

[CASE 220/4]

If you have the cash then order a few other things to save on shipping. Just because the disc fits snug on the pulley doesnt mean it doesnt need to be bonded to it. If you have doubts then just buy a new disc for $20. Make sure you get the correct amount of wave washers and the correct shims (washers). There is two different diagrams that show the breakdown of the PTO clutch. Everything is based off your pulley design.