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So I have ued my 444 to cut grass three times. One thing I do not like is going down grades. On my MTD the motor works to keep to going a consistant speed. When on the 444 it just races down, makes a grinding noise and you have to use the brakes witch in turn send you straight to neutral if pused too hard. Is this something I just have to lear how to overcome? Or is there something out of adjustment?
 

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Early Case tractors will do this 'runaway' downhill. They lack a 'holding valve', which was optional and then later in production integrated to the main travel control valve as a standard feature.

You do have a 'retard' feature, which is well explained in the owner's guide. In summary, keeping the engine at full speed, pull the speed control into the retard position, and this will provide a degree of downhill braking. Basically, this position creates a hydraulic pressure which prevents the drive motor from free wheeling and letting the tractor run away.

The optional holding valve kit will show up used periodically. They are unique for 400 and 200 series tractors, so look for the right one. Get the whole kit ... separate tubes are increasingly hard to find. I see complete kit prices ranging $200-300 on eBay.

Good luck ...

Brian
 

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What you need is a "Holding Valve Kit". This began as an option that could be either ordered with a new tractor or added to the tractor after delivery. The holding valve will put an end to your "runaway" problems.

There are two ways to add this feature. The simplest way is to buy a used BUT CORRECT kit for you tractor off of e-bay or elsewhere. They cost anywhere from $150.00 to $250.00 depending on the demand. The 2nd option is to purchase a used travel/lift valve from a newer tractor that has the holding feature built into it. Same kind of money. You have to drill two new mounting holes for the later valve and do some tweaking of the motor lines to get everything to fit.


In the meantime, I suggest that you locate the Operator's Manual for your tractor and read the section that talks about descending grades and how to use the RETARD sections on your Travel Valve.
 

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animalsonly said:
So I have ued my 444 to cut grass three times. One thing I do not like is going down grades. On my MTD the motor works to keep to going a consistant speed. When on the 444 it just races down, makes a grinding noise and you have to use the brakes witch in turn send you straight to neutral if pused too hard. Is this something I just have to lear how to overcome? Or is there something out of adjustment?
AO Take a look at this FAQ on holding valves. Your operators manual will also discuss how to control a Case garden tractor without the holding valve on a grade. You don't use the brake.
Personally, I really like having the holding valve.

viewtopic.php?f=17&t=1036

:222: :446: Best Regards, Rich
 

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InTroubleAlltheTime said:
You don't use the brake.

viewtopic.php?f=17&t=1036

:222: :446: Best Regards, Rich
Correction: Based on operators manual you can use the brake in conjunction with travel lever as a second option. Quote: "Remember however if the brake is applied, the speed control lever will automatically return to neutral. The travel lever can be moved to forward or reverse while your foot is still on the brake."
:222: :446: Best Regards, Rich
 

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InTroubleAlltheTime said:
InTroubleAlltheTime said:
You don't use the brake.

viewtopic.php?f=17&t=1036

:222: :446: Best Regards, Rich
Correction: Based on operators manual you can use the brake in conjunction with travel lever as a second option. Quote: "Remember however if the brake is applied, the speed control lever will automatically return to neutral. The travel lever can be moved to forward or reverse while your foot is still on the brake."
:222: :446: Best Regards, Rich
In other words, you can use your brake at the same time as using the RETARD feature as long as you keep a firm grip on the travel lever to keep it from returning to Neutral.
 

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ken222 said:
can you tell me what the tag says on the valve
Sure...... we could tell you what it says but that info won't do you any good.

Here's why.

The steel lines you see in the pics are custom bent for these tractors and they change depending upon the model. Only one of those lines can be bought brand new at the moment. When that one is gone, then that's it. The cost of the bare valve will be more than the cost of buying a used HVK off of e-bay. If you add in the cost of making custom lines to the cost of a new valve, you will be really in the hole. Trust me...... this issue has been examined several times in the past on other forums to no avail.

If you desire the holding feature, then a used travel/lift valve with holding is the other way to proceed.
 

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ken222 said:
i work in a hydraulic shop, pipe is free :thumbup:
That's not fair. In fact, it's cheating. :sidelaugh: :sidelaugh: :sidelaugh:

Perhaps your shop may be able to get the valve for you at distributor price. That too, would put you at a huge advantage over the rest of us peons. :lol:
 

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Sometimes it's good to have friends in greasy places. :thumbsup:

The valve that I posted pics of before says on the tag Racine 3 988284 79
It came off a short wheelbase 446.
These pics are of one off a 222 and it says 3265LR Dukes Fluid Power 1491AA
It sounds like if you can fab the steel lines you need to buy this one and start producing them.



 

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bhildret said:
Early Case tractors will do this 'runaway' downhill. They lack a 'holding valve', which was optional and then later in production integrated to the main travel control valve as a standard feature.

You do have a 'retard' feature, which is well explained in the owner's guide. In summary, keeping the engine at full speed, pull the speed control into the retard position, and this will provide a degree of downhill braking. Basically, this position creates a hydraulic pressure which prevents the drive motor from free wheeling and letting the tractor run away.

The optional holding valve kit will show up used periodically. They are unique for 400 and 200 series tractors, so look for the right one. Get the whole kit ... separate tubes are increasingly hard to find. I see complete kit prices ranging $200-300 on eBay.

Good luck ...

Brian
Brian

I've read that the 200 and the early 400 (SWB) are the same.

I've read that the later 400 (LWB) are the same as Grummy's 226 S. :thumbsup: :sidelaugh: :sidelaugh: :sidelaugh:

:headscratcher: :headscratcher:
 

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Stewart said:
bhildret said:
Early Case tractors will do this 'runaway' downhill. They lack a 'holding valve', which was optional and then later in production integrated to the main travel control valve as a standard feature.

You do have a 'retard' feature, which is well explained in the owner's guide. In summary, keeping the engine at full speed, pull the speed control into the retard position, and this will provide a degree of downhill braking. Basically, this position creates a hydraulic pressure which prevents the drive motor from free wheeling and letting the tractor run away.

The optional holding valve kit will show up used periodically. They are unique for 400 and 200 series tractors, so look for the right one. Get the whole kit ... separate tubes are increasingly hard to find. I see complete kit prices ranging $200-300 on eBay.

Good luck ...

Brian
Brian

I've read that the 200 and the early 400 (SWB) are the same.

I've read that the later 400 (LWB) are the same as Grummy's 226 S. :thumbsup: :sidelaugh: :sidelaugh: :sidelaugh:

:headscratcher: :headscratcher:
That's what happens when you read in the wrong places. :sidelaugh: :sidelaugh:

There is but ONE Holding Valve kit for all 200 Series tractors and that is the L-7

There is ONE Holding Valve kit for all 442, 444 and 446 tractors with the 46" wheelbase and that is the L-9

However, that kit will not work on the very early 442 and 444 tractors that use the old style drive motor that was carried over from the 195 models. And if you have an pre-73 tractor that has the brackets welded to the frame for the pre-Snap Fast Utility Blade, then you must cut the left side bracket off.

There is ONE Holding Valve kit for all 600 Series tractors and that is the LL-9

The M-9 and N-9 Holding Valve kits are for the 444, 446 and 448 tractors with the 48" wheelbase.
 

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The valve would be the same in the kits but the lines from the travel valve to the holding valve
is what is different.
The shorter lines in the pics is for the L9 kit and the longer lines are for the L7 200 series kit.
You wouldn't think that the shorter tractor would take the longer/taller lines.

I've got both the L7 200 series and L9 400 series short wheel base kits that I would sell.




 

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Hydriv said:
ken222 said:
can you tell me what the tag says on the valve
Sure...... we could tell you what it says but that info won't do you any good.

Here's why.

The steel lines you see in the pics are custom bent for these tractors and they change depending upon the model. Only one of those lines can be bought brand new at the moment. When that one is gone, then that's it. The cost of the bare valve will be more than the cost of buying a used HVK off of e-bay. .....
Couldn't I just buy a couple 18 to 24" flexible hoses from surplus center and twist them into whatever shape necessary?

I agree steel is better, but hydraulic hoses can last for years. And I HARDLY ever inspect the underside of my tractor for neatness.... :grin: :

Bob
 

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It is certainly possible to use a combination of fittings plus hoses to make the connections.

Keeping in mind that this is a garden tractor, having hoses hanging down where they might snag on something is a potential disaster. Careful routing plus clamps or ties would solve that problem. The second issue is the one I touched on before and that is the combined cost of hoses, fittings and the valve. Now, I realize that you work in a hydraulics shop so that gives you access to items at cost or better. Used HV kits sell on ebay for $200.00 on average. Only you can decide if buying a new valve and then making hoses and buying fittings to make it work will be less expensive than an e-bay purchase plus the shipping.
 
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