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· Registered
579 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First off, this is a LONG post. Here's why.
After picking up an Ingersoll 6018 loader a couple years ago, I started reading the forums to learn more about the unit. It sometimes took weeks or months of reading, researching, and filling in the gaps to piece together information.
I kept thinking, it would really be nice to have the information I learned distilled into a single article that was easy to find, and easy to read. Like a Frequently Asked Question (FAQ) on steroids. That way others would not have to go down the same rabbit trails to find the information.
Also, I owe a debt of gratitude to the guys who have taken their time to help others and post information about these amazing little tractors. So, I decided to write up a sample article and post it here to see how it goes. The finished article will be formatted for easy reading (and printing).
Hopefully, if it is received well, the complete article will be saved in the reference section. Here is a sample of the formatted article-

This is the full article text.
Travel Controls on CASE/Ingersoll
Compact Wheel Loaders
Case 644, 646, 648 and Ingersoll 6018, 6020, 7020

After picking up an Ingersoll 6018 Compact Wheel Loader a couple years ago, I started reading the Case/Ingersoll garden tractor forums to learn more about the unit. I noticed a number of posts from new owners about travel performance. Typically, the complaints center around weak or poor performance in forward or reverse or the direction lever moving out of position.

Issues affecting travel performance of Wheel Loaders can range from simple adjustments to major repairs. However, in most cases the problem can often be traced to the overall condition and adjustment of the Travel Control components and linkage. If you just want to get the thing going, jump to page 3. If it is too cold or rainy to play with your tractor, and you want to expand your mind, then keep reading.

Colt/Case/Ingersoll garden tractors utilize a hand-operated speed control lever. The lever controls both the direction and speed of the tractor. On the loaders, the operator needs to make quick changes in direction, speed, and bucket handling. Absent a third appendage, how do you get everything to work smoothly? Case engineers solved the problem on the loaders by adding a foot-operated travel pedal.

Loader Travel Control
Adding the pedal required some changes in the traditional GT travel control layout.
Look at the loader control layout. Notice the GT speed control lever now becomes the direction control lever on a loader. Moving the direction control lever alone doesn't result in any motion. The operator must press the travel pedal (right foot) to get moving.
With this arrangement, the operator uses the left hand to "shift" between Forward-Neutral-Reverse (and operate the steering wheel as needed) while the right foot operates the travel pedal. The right hand handles the bucket control lever (and operates the steering wheel as needed). After a little practice, the setup allows the operator to make smooth, seamless transitions.
Adding the pedal necessitated some changes in the control linkage. No doubt, most guys reading this article could crawl under one of these tractors, move the controls around, and immediately "get" how the linkage works. If you don't have access to one of these jewels, you will have to visualize how everything operates. You might have to reread the awkward description a couple times and look at the Travel Linkage diagram from the Ingersoll 6018 Wheel Loader Operator's Manual to get comfortable with what is happening under the floor.

Note: References to position or direction will assume the seated operator position. However, as is customary for Case/Ingersoll parts diagrams, the viewer is oriented facing the right - front of the tractor.

The key to making all this work is the control plate (sometimes referred to as the banana plate). Movement of the control plate operates the travel control valve and determines both direction and speed. Notice how the control plate is connected to the valve link-the valve link is connected to the ball joint-the ball joint is connected to the travel control valve (come on-sing along-you know you want too). Never mind.

Here's what happens:
The operator uses the directional lever to select Forward/Neutral/Reverse. Moving the lever rotates a small arm that rides in the slot in the control plate (it rides in the shoulder bushing). Look carefully at the slot and you will see an enlarged notch at each end (and in the center). Each of these positions in the slot creates a pivot point, or hinge, for Forward, Neutral, and Reverse. For proper operation, the shoulder bushing must seat in one of these notches.

In Figure 2, the directional lever is shown in the "near forward" position. This is not a usable operating position. For proper operation, the directional lever must be moved to the full forward, neutral, or full reverse positions. There is no "in between". The directional lever is not moved while in motion.

Forward Movement
Note: Ignore the Guide Brackets. The brackets are fixed to the frame and do not move, but act as a guide to stabilize the control plate.
To move forward, the operator moves the directional lever to the full forward position. This seats the shoulder bushing in the notch at the left end of the control plate slot.

This becomes the pivot point for the control plate. When the operator presses the travel pedal, the control pin moves the right end of the control plate forward. This "pulls" the travel spool forward in the same direction.

Reverse Movement
To reverse, the operator pulls the directional lever to the full rearward position. This seats the shoulder bushing in the notch at the right end of the control plate slot. This becomes the pivot point. When the operator presses the travel pedal, the control pin still moves the right end of the control plate forward. Only now, because the pivot point is located at the right end of the slot, the left side of the control plate moves rearward and "pushes" the travel spool inward.

Placing the directional control lever in the Neutral position seats the shoulder bushing in the center of the slot. This position is in-line with the spool and pressing the travel pedal causes the control plate to rotate around the center point and results in no spool movement.

What Can Go Wrong?
Note: Before starting work, make sure the tractor has the proper grade of motor oil (not hydraulic fluid) in the hydraulic system and is it filled to the recommended level. A lot of performance issues can crop up because of an oil issue.

Now that you have an idea how the basic travel control system works, let's look at what can go wrong. The Operator's Manual (a must-have) covers basic adjustment and maintenance procedures. The last page of this article contains information from the 6018 Operators Manual and provides step-by-step instructions for making adjustments. Contact your local Ingersoll GT dealer to obtain the appropriate manual for your tractor.
If you don't have a trusted local dealer, contact Brian Hildreth, Salem Power Equipment. Brian (bhildret) is a member here and contributes a lot of time and expertise.

Common Issues
A common complaint with the loaders is that the direction control lever moves out of place. The lever relies on a friction washer to keep it in position. Inspect the friction washer (it may be missing entirely) and replace if appropriate.
Another common complaint is that the tractor lacks power or moves better in one direction than the other. Usually, this is a result of improper ball joint/valve link adjustment. The travel spool in the Travel Control Valve (TCV) moves no more than ¾" (full forward to full reverse). The slightest incorrect adjustment will affect performance. Adjusting the linkage may solve the problem.

The last area affecting performance involves the number of interrelated components involved in travel control linkage. Any wear, looseness, slack, or incorrect adjustment in the linkage can result in significant travel performance issues.
Although you can crawl under the tractor and visually watch the control plate in action, a number of wear points are not visible. The control plate should be removed and carefully inspected, along with all components in the system. Replace anything with even the slightest evidence of wear. If you have a 600 series Case Loader, check with your dealer to see if an improved style control plate is available.

Big Finish
If you are reading this and don't have a loader but you are intrigued by the foot control, you have a few choices:
1 Go get a loader (come on, you know you WANT one)
2 Contact Brian and order a brand-spanking new 4200 series Ingersoll GT
3 Update your GT with Grummy's excellent foot control modification

If, after following steps outlined here, you still have travel control issues, well, you are on your own. I've told you all I know.
Good Luck!

Ingersoll 6018L & 6018BH Operator's Manual 8-59730
Page 2 footer - "7-95-RP-200"

The direction control lever adjustment is important to full speed and power.
If the lever will not stay in full "FORWARD" or "REVERSE" position, adjust as follows:
1. Find the position of the lock nut on the bottom end of the directional lever shaft.
2. Turn the nut clockwise to get more tension on the friction washer.
3. Check for correct tension by pushing on the travel pedal. The direction control lever must not move when the travel pedal is actuated.

If the direction control lever cannot be adjusted correctly check the friction washer for wear and replace if necessary. To replace:
1. Disconnect the direction lever and valve link from the control plate.
2. Remove the lock nut from the direction control lever.
3. Pull the lever up and remove the washers from the lever shaft.
4. Replace the worn friction washer and also replace the nylon bushing at the same time.
5. Install the remaining washers according to the diagram.
6. Connect the control plate to valve link and direction control lever.
7. Adjust the lever tension according to steps above.

The direction control lever is connected to the control plate with a shoulder bushing.
Check the condition of this bushing at regular intervals. The bushing must fit tight for correct function of the control valve.

To replace:
1. Remove the cotter pin and washer.
2. Free the bushing from the control plate and remove.
3. Install the new bushing as shown. The smaller diameter of the bushing must fit into the slot in the control plate.
4. Fasten with the washer and cotter pin.

For full speed and power the travel pedal and linkage must work correctly. When you actuate the travel pedal:
1. The pedal must not hit the foot rest.
2. The control pin must not hit the end of the slot in the control plate.
If this occurs, check the linkage for wear or check the ball joint adjustment, make sure the control pin is tightened fully.
1. Replace any worn linkage parts.
2. Adjust the ball joints. Turn either in or out to get equal speed and power in both "FORWARD" or "REVERSE" travel. Make sure ball joints are tightened fully.
end of article

Assuming you made it this far, please give me feedbck, comments, or corrections.

· Registered
579 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the comments guys.
The only direct experience I have is with the 6018 loader. I have probably read everything out there (that I can find) at least once. I found myself getting frustrated trying to locate information I had read in one of the forums. I started copying snippets of text so I wouldn't lose track of the info. Eventually, I started to draft the article as a way to pass some time.

After this forum started up, I finished up and contacted Tom about the article. Tom suggested I post in the main forum and the finished document would be placed in the reference section. I can see this as an on-going effort and I will edit and update the article as I run across relevent info.

I already noticed something I missed. I made no mention that the information applies to the Case/Ingersoll backhoes.
If anyone notices anything else I missed, let me know.

· Registered
210 Posts
Hops_Farmer said:
I'm having the issues you're talking about. I'm gonna print this out, take it to the barn, crawl under my 7020 and get to work!
I just spent 4 hours under my 7020. It is a bitch to change out the bushings on my banana plate. Everything under there is so tightly packed in there. I pulled out the entire travel pedal and assembly to try to free up some room. I got the bushings in there, but I think I damaged them a bit. The cotter pins are the hardest thing to get at. At this point, I have the linkage apart, and am trying to get the valve link back into the bushing. It was a bitch to get off, and now a mother #%&@%& to get back on. I am hoping that this will be the hardest part, and I should be able to get the rest of it back together Monday or Tuesday. Oh, did I mention it's 10 degrees in my barn.

Now I am sitting in my lazy bastard chair sipping vodka.

I still love my tractor! (just not working on it)

· Registered
241 Posts
Well this is going to be an addon, on my 446... Found most of the part on Ebay and Brian will be getting me the rest...
I am actually working on getting heat in my garage today and [email protected]#$ its cold.. I am installing a coal burner so I can get enough heat to work on my BIG wood furnace.

Well I will keep everyone posted on the Travel Control

Any help, guidance, 2 cents etc will be greatly appreciated...

That goes for you to Hydriv.... (I am kidding Tom A)

· Registered
2,546 Posts
Wow, Greg, I just noticed all the cute young tractor drivers in your avatar! I thought with 2 daughters and 4 granddaughters I was leading the pack but you seem to be right there with me. I plan to give each of mine a tractor as a dowry when they get a little older. :sidelaugh:

· Registered
210 Posts
I'm not sure if this is the right place to post this, but here I go anyway.

I replaced all the wear items under my 2001 7020L. For the record, it sucked. However the difference is considerably better. The number one thing I found was the balljoint was the ultimate culprit to my lack of reverse. I took a picture of the new one and the used one.

It's sort of hard to tell in the picture, but the old balljoint has more angle to it. The newer one has less range of motion and fixed the problem. I think all of the other parts helped too, but this was the most noticeable difference.


· Banned
12,618 Posts
It's sitting right in the middle of the Board Index page that lists all the forums, bulletin boards and so forth on this site.

You will have to excuse me but.... I am wondering why you joined this site considering the fact that the loader/hoe you own is not made by Case, as you originally thought? Do you have other Case garden tractor equipment?

· Administrator
3,535 Posts
Hydriv said:
You will have to excuse me but.... I am wondering why you joined this site considering the fact that the loader/hoe you own is not made by Case, as you originally thought? Do you have other Case garden tractor equipment?
Maybe he heard that there are some really attractive ladies on this site that go by the names of Bart and Hydriv :sidelaugh: :sidelaugh:

Shas, welcome to the group! This site has lots of great information about Case/Colt/Ingersoll tractors and the folks here will answer any of your questions.
:thumbsup: Tim

Back to the main subject... Great article! Thank you for taking the time to put that together.

· Banned
12,618 Posts
When I posed that question, I should have included this link.

If you read it start to finish, I think that my question might be more understandable in the circumstance. No one should construe that Shas is not welcome as a member of this forum because I asked what I asked. To the contrary, he is most certainly welcome. I am hopeful that he wants to be better educated about the 600 Series. In any event, that thread is worth the review.
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