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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just finished swapping a NOS CCK short block in to my 1973 Case 646. The process was easy and I figured I would pass along what I learned.

1. You're not likely to find an exact replacement for the 646 version of CCKa engine. I found a NOS #110-3422-05 short block with an 1-1/2" crankshaft (Original OEM Onan 50 CID Short Block for CCK CCKA CCKB Engines 110-3422-05 | eBay) Which means I had to order a new half of the AL-110 Lovejoy coupler and cut the crankshaft off. Page 15 of https://www.lovejoy-inc.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/Jaw2010catalog.pdf has the part numbers

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The short block I wound up with has mechanical "spark advance" on it which changes the timing setup.

2. You'll need some gaskets - previously discussed in post cck block differences?

Gaskets and seals I ordered:

154-2769 Intake/Exhaust Gasket
509-0008 Oil Seal Governor Shaft
102-1369 Oil Base Gasket

Got the gear cover gasket and new front crank - ala gear cover seal from this kit: New Gasket Fits Onan CK, CCK, CCKA, CCKB, LK, All B, P & N Series Onan Engines | eBay

Also a de-carbon gasket set which supplies head gaskets, and valve cover gaskets. I RE-used the exhaust gaskets since I had replaced those recently.

3. The block I got was unpainted, so I cleaned it up and hit it with rattle can engine primer and paint. I put the heads and gear cover on and masked the manifold holes, etc before hand. I wanted to make sure it didn't rust is all.

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4. Everything swaps over pretty much without a hitch. I put a new starter on it at the same time I swapped in a Nikki carb instead of the VD 65. VD 75 Carb

I also routed the charging stator wires outside the engine covers so I could use an off the shelf voltage regulator. (as opposed to the OEM one that is under the flywheel and the covers and the front of the tractor, and, and, Basically I wanted the Voltage regulator somewhere serviceable.

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The short block comes with a new oil pump you just need to swap the pickup screen over. Be advised to prime the oil pump with clean motor oil while you have access to it.

'course cleaning 48 years of gunk out of the oil pan and the oil pickup took some time. Plenty of almost sand stuck to the bottom of that oil pan.

In addition to the gaskets I replaced the seals in the gear cover. The large seal for the crankshaft and a small one for the governor shaft. Also make sure there are only 5 ball bearings in the camshaft gear. Short blocks typical ship with all 10 balls, ala governed speed = 1800 RPM for generators.

The original wiring harness on this '73 allowed me to separate the oil pressure sender wire and the power to the coil wire from the rest of the engine loom without having to cut anything. I put new coverings on the wires and they plug right into the tractor wiring harness.
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While you're swapping the points box over, it's a good time to check the push rod length length.Onan CCKa Timing Issues

Make sure to reset the governor to Carb rod length.. You’re changing lots of stuff, in my case a totally different model of carburetor. But to set the governor rod length, set the throttle control to wide open or turn the governor arm as far as it will go in the direction of wide open. Adjust the governor rod length so it slips into the hole on the carb butterfly when you are holding the butterfly wide open. From the Onan Manual:

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The rest of the story:

I had not initially primed the new oil pump and having cranked the engine A LOT getting the starter mesh sorted and confirmed. I thought I would see oil in the filter. But the filter was dry!!

After panic set in, is my block bad? What did I screw up, etc. I went back and primed the oil pump and I also installed the engine without the hydraulic pump into the tractor so I could use the oil pressure light and key switch to start, monitor, and if necessary kill the engine if it did not have oil pressure.

Thankfully the new engine started, it has oil pressure and ran very well. I did some video of checking the spark advance. This mechanical advance is interesting. You set the static, engine not running, timing at 1 degrees AFTER top dead center. When the engine is running the advance moves the timing back to 24 degrees BEFORE TDC. Normal timing for this version of CCK is 20-21 degrees Before TDC

Information included with the short block, and YES the copy in the box was this poor, thats the best scan I can get of it.

Photo album with more photos.. Onan CCKa Short Block swap - installation
 

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Wow sdunt !!! That's quite the project and a really nice job !!! Something to be very proud of!!! Thanks for sharing your adventures and info with us.

Enjoy
Capt Dan
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It IS really nice to think that the tractor now after 48 years has a 'new' engine in it.. When I pass it on to the kids, etc. it will KEEP running for maybe another 48 years?

I probably need to start working up a binder of all the repairs, when I did them and what was replaced so, even I, have an idea going forward, whats original, whats custom, whats been replaced, etc.

But, yes, it is VERY nice to stick the key in the ignition, and hear that 'new' engine just purrrrrrrrrrrrrr
 

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Thanks Sdunt. Lots of useful information in your post. I think my governor is misadjusted so I'll follow your instructions above and see if it fixes my surging. I do have a question regarding pulling the engine: does the pump need to be removed with it or can it be blocked up and left in place w/o having to drain the hydraulic system? I'm thinking of re-ringing mine and trying to understand what all is involved.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Both times I have had the engine out of my 646 I came at it from the front and just drained the system and removed the tank and cooler. Pulling the engine out the side would be an interesting feat. On a 646 A, SER# 9680512 the mounts for the reserve tank are pressed right up against the engine.. And to get to the bolts that hold those brackets in place without being the india rubber man, means you have to pull the cooler, and to pull the cooler, you drain the system.

I have some advantages when draining my tractor, When I did the PS install I now have a screw on oil filter that is the lowest spot in the drain line, so I can drain the cooler and alot of the tank through that.

I have a vacuum oil change - oil extractor that I use to suck as much oil out of the lines as possible : https://www.amazon.com/America-2005...m/dp/B000OQIGA6/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3G1VTBPB5841X

Brigs sells something similar and cheaper: https://www.amazon.com/Briggs-Strat...r/dp/B009POW2CG/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3G1VTBPB5841X
 
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