I think a hex bit with a ratchet would give you better leverage.
Bob
Bob
Thanks Gordy. maybe I should just pray for nothing below the teens. Thanks too for the links. I was first thinking of just getting the 1/4" but looks like there are other hex plugs too. I guess I won't get it done right away like I was hoping. I was thinking about disconnecting one of the hoses or hard lines but wasn't sure which one but hated messing with them too. I guess I figured too that if I got the majority out that would be better than what I have in it now for winter use. Thanks for the cautions above. cbSome have had big problems getting these plugs out, and some have not come out. Then you may need to remove the oil return hose going to the oil cooler, at the lower right front corner of the tractor. I have done this and pulled the spark plugs so I could crank the engine and use the pump to push out more oil. NOTE; do NOT run the engine to do this, too high of rpms will quickly remove all oil from the pump and wreck it. ALSO; with Onans it is important to either disconnect power from the coil, or ensure the plug wires are grounded before turning the engine over, some have reported wrecking the coil by not doing this.
I have a Craftsman allen set like this for use with a ratchet.
![]()
Amazon.com: LEXIVON Master HEX Bit Socket Set, Premium S2 Alloy Steel | Complete 32-Piece, SAE and Metric Set | Enhanced Storage Case (LX-144) : Tools & Home Improvement
Buy LEXIVON Master HEX Bit Socket Set, Premium S2 Alloy Steel | Complete 32-Piece, SAE and Metric Set | Enhanced Storage Case (LX-144): Hex Keys - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchaseswww.amazon.com
And a hand operated impact for small stuff, The big electric impact can easily break small stuffThe hand impacts are easy to use, just grip the handle applying force in the direction you want the item to turn and whack the back of the impact with a hammer. There is a ramp inside the tool that gives extra turning force and when that hits the end of its stroke it gives the impact to the threads to loosen them.
![]()
6 Bit Impact Screwdriver Set With Case
Amazing deals on this 6Bit Impact Screwdriver Set W/Case at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.www.harborfreight.com
Cheers,
Gordy
Thank you for chiming in again. There usually is another side to the story.Sorry to be the lone dissenter here guys! we have had sooo many posts about this very issue over the years. Yeah I know full well about the push back by some of here in power about oil types and even after I posted a few long diatribes about this and was told by (Bob) I had no clue about hydraulics that stopped me being a regular contributor) I will say again - stop using r4egualr oil in hydraulics! I have been using Synthetic 5-50 oil in my GTs year round with no change for 4 years (probably go 5 years too) . Never, ever had a problem but also Very important I have more power to!!! Please stop listening to these diehards that want you to stay with 30 year old ideals. I am running two GT winter tractors and that is all I will ever use. Want more winter and summer power from you hydraulics you need to think long and hard about this.. There all many threads on this on this forum. One reason I left was that this subject drove me away and only visit occasionally again. Oh, I live in WNY where we actually get SNOW, and my Case 446, and 444 regularly get used for snow blowing duties for myself and at least 6 of my neighbors. I need an an oil that allows the engine to start easily from cold (I mean the outside temp as mine are stored under cover outside!) . Remember though even the oil chosen that you need a multi-grade. The lower the first number 5-10-20 etc is the cold temp and the high number 20-30-40-50 the high temp. You need the lowest possible cold to start easier and highest figure fore best torque. Your choice guys!!!
Many hear will avoid oil discussions, as they can get as bad as political or religious discussions.Thank you for chiming in again. There usually is another side to the story.
Just to clarify or confirm. You use the 5-50 in the hydraulics and it is synthetic? So it is still motor oil but full synthetic rather than hydraulic advertised oil.
At the end of your comment you speak of an oil that allows the engine to start easily. What weight do you use in the engine. And is it full synthetic of a blend? or does the weight of the hydraulic oil impact how the engine starts ( I did not think there was a connection between the two)? thank you. cb
Hear in MN farm country, 30W is readily available at Walmart. By the quart in the small engine are is very expensive, but in the big jugs not so bad. My Walmart carries 3 brands of 30W (all heavy duty diesel), the store brand, Shell Rotella and Mobil Delvac.Oh another thing I hear as push back is that - well the engine needs this.... guess what the engine is a totally different beast to the hydraulics! For me a couple (yeah I have 4 Case tractors now) use 30 weight oil _ anyone recently tried to get that oil? oh its available for a premium but totally unnecessary too, mainly ONAN engines. So what do you use so form of multi grade right? so why should we change hydrualics. Just try getting the hydraulic fluid (read regular oil here) for the hydraulics!!!
Hi again and Happy New Year!So Gordy I have used Rotella 6 synthetic 10-40 oil in my hydraulics in a 446 with 18HP B&S engine and electric clutch for winter use and J46 snow blower for several years. The torque is well above using conventional oil stated in the Case manual, and the GT sits outside under a cover all winter at sometimes temps down to -5 or so. Over the last 3 years I have changed to Mobile 1 5-50 as it provides even easier starts and a higher torque too. Either will work fine. The GT turns over, almost like it's summer, and starts easily! I change my hydraulic oil about every 2-3 years, just because I get to check for leaks etc, not because it really needs it! Oh, BTW in my engine, B&S 18HP, I use 0-20 synthetic too and change every couple of years. Why synthetic guys? Because the oil weight is constant and predictable as its part of the manufacturing process and are constant through the temperature range. Natural oils (if thats the right word ) need to be created by additives and are unpredictable throughout the temperature range and ONLY hit the weight at a specified temperature. Going to stop there guys, just know I did my research over almost 2 years to get here but it's true that oil wars erupt here as everone has their own take on this.
sorry I should have included this in the last thread of a few minutes ago. I was a little confused here. Is there a difference then in what you use for the engine oil in an Onan -sounds like 30 weight per above versus B&S - below comment of 0w20? I have bought 30 weight in a jug that I did not consider too expensive. I'm on the fence now if I'm going to change the engine oil - but think I should for an easier start. It started really easy last week when it was minus 4 but it happened so fast that the garage was still above freezing, even though unheated. thanks.Oh another thing I hear as push back is that - well the engine needs this.... guess what the engine is a totally different beast to the hydraulics! For me a couple (yeah I have 4 Case tractors now) use 30 weight oil _ anyone recently tried to get that oil? oh its available for a premium but totally unnecessary too, mainly ONAN engines. So what do you use so form of multi grade right? so why should we change hydrualics. Just try getting the hydraulic fluid (read regular oil here) for the hydraulics!!!
I found a nice youtube on changing the hydraulic oil from CaseIngersoll tractors Northeast that changed by your alternative of removing the hose. I think I will do that. He did disconnect the spark plugs and then cranked the engine to push out the oil and also moved the travel lever back and forth to also remove - that was also done after filling to "bleed" the system, but said there usually isn't much bleeding necessary. But he did not mention the caution about the coil. I've never dealt with that and not sure where it is even. 1. regarding disconnecting power to the coil - is that just taking off a positive wire? 2. regarding grounding the spark plug wire that was taken off - is that like attaching an alligator clip to it with the other end to the frame? thank you. Happy New Year cbThanks Gordy. maybe I should just pray for nothing below the teens. Thanks too for the links. I was first thinking of just getting the 1/4" but looks like there are other hex plugs too. I guess I won't get it done right away like I was hoping. I was thinking about disconnecting one of the hoses or hard lines but wasn't sure which one but hated messing with them too. I guess I figured too that if I got the majority out that would be better than what I have in it now for winter use. Thanks for the cautions above. cb
Hi, you should go with 5/50 or at least 5/40 in the hydraulic system, using 5/20 will severely limit your available talkHi again and Happy New Year!
I'm going to reply to each member separately just to try and make it simple for myself if that is possible.
I live in Cleveland, OH and I have the tractor in an unheated attached garage so it does go below freezing inside.
I am leaning toward the synthetic oil. I saw an ad by a Subaru dealer that for their cars , and their engines may be totally different from a tractor engine, but they recommend changing from the conventional oil to full or at least a blended synthetic. Natural or regular or conventional (assuming all those terms are synonymous) have impurities that eventually wear the engine - I think they used the term sludge, whereas, synthetics and man-made and consistent.
I did find a few 2014 threads on this topic with several members discussing the research. I'm sure I did not comprehend it all.
I think my father-in-law had the engine replaced but I think still Onan.
For the hydraulics, I did get 5W20 initially from Autozone but am able to return it. But they only have 5w40. Do you think that is okay or should I try for a 50 weight? (I do have some confusion on this. I think I get the 5w for easier winter starting. But if the 50 is for better summer high temp performance, seems like a 20 as the manual suggests (as thinner than 30) would perform better in winter. Or does the temp of the hydraulics get so hot that the 50works better no matter if summer or winter?
And for the engine oil, you state 0w20 in your B&S. Is that what you would recommend for my 448 Onan?
Thanks for your time. I really appreciate it.
I Was going to link the video but seen you found our video lol. You can use many different options as we stated in the video and will have good results. If its in the budget we recommend Scheaffers synthetic oil over anything else for engine, hydraulics, grease etc. In the engines we prefer 5-40, 15-40 or 20-50 synthetic "racing" or "diesel" oils. But not everyone has the budget to do so. But synthetics are preferred. But every one has their opinions and many of them work. Many argue that diesel oil or racing oil is not needed.... well Again lots of things will get the job done...But some get it done better and for longer. "GOOD" Racing and diesel oil have many advantages. One being very high levels of zinc, high zinc is needed for flat tappet engines as it helps greatly with metal to metal contact and impact as well as lubing including gear contact like in pumps and motors, gear boxs etc... Also racing and diesel oil is designed for high temps and stressful environments (IE hard working diesels and racing engines) very much like any air cooled small engine. I will say above all and type, weight etc. clean, cool oil is the most important of all things. Thanks for watching our videos too.I found a nice youtube on changing the hydraulic oil from CaseIngersoll tractors Northeast that changed by your alternative of removing the hose. I think I will do that. He did disconnect the spark plugs and then cranked the engine to push out the oil and also moved the travel lever back and forth to also remove - that was also done after filling to "bleed" the system, but said there usually isn't much bleeding necessary. But he did not mention the caution about the coil. I've never dealt with that and not sure where it is even. 1. regarding disconnecting power to the coil - is that just taking off a positive wire? 2. regarding grounding the spark plug wire that was taken off - is that like attaching an alligator clip to it with the other end to the frame? thank you. Happy New Year cb