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Choke cable repair

2205 Views 8 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  GoldenCove
The &^%&^%* choke cable has come off the restraint on the actuator lever side of things. :facepalm:
Its all been been sticking for a while, with the external cable flexing instead of the steel rod sliding through no matter how I tried to lube it, and now she's done gone and let loose. :wtf:

It appears I have to remove the battery, battery tray, and perhaps the oil tank to get at it.

Do you concur or does someone know a shortcut?

If that in indeed the "'Case" , I am probably gonna rig up a choke lever on the carb and tackle this in the summer.


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If yours has the plastic oil tank, you might be able to remove the plate between the battery and engine and slide the oil tank forward enough to get in there. The access plate on the dash tower may be of some help if removed, but I would guess very little. I don't know why it is called an access plate. It only allows slight access to anything behind it.
I replaced the cable on my 446 with the help of Mad Mac but the previous owner cut an access panel to make this job simple. I do not recommend that at all. Removing the oil tank ( the plastic one) is not that hard and really the right way to do it. :chopwood:
1977 - metal tank - no access plate
Not sure how different yours is from my '83, but I was able to just remove the battery and use my fingers and a large pair of longnose to remove both of mine. I pulled the access plate, but that was just to get a view using a mirror and flashlight. Once I saw what I had it wasn't needed.
A big help in reinstalling was to use the nuts with the integrated external tooth lockwashers (keps nut).

Wrap a piece of vinyl electric tape around the end of your finger, sticky side out. Position the nut by looking from above, then drop in the screw. No wrench needed.

BTW, while it was out, I cut the end off the cable and removed it from the housing. Straightened a few small kinks and cleaned and oiled both parts. Made a huge difference. I thought I'd be replacing the cable, but it's perfect now. While it's out, if yours is riveted it's a good chance to replace the rivet with a bolt and locknut. Do NOT lube the pivot point.
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Did you remove just the cables this way or were you speaking of the entire assembly?

Please clarify and thanks.
The entire assembly. The cable housing is crimped onto the bracket, I don't know if it's even possible to replace it and recrimp it if it's still installed. The hardest part was getting the handle off without cracking it. The rest was just time consuming and sort of solve-a-puzzle-ish because you have to twist and turn it just right to get it in and out.
I got both of my cables swapped out today. It was 48 freakin' degrees on December 26th... :facepalm:

In the end I had to remove the battery, remove the battery tray, drain the hydraulic oil, remove the hydraulic tank, and remove the hydraulic tank support to get at it. Without a flexible 1/4 socket extension, one that bends 90 degrees, I could not have gotten the actuators off the tower.

But aside from that it went pretty well. I was able to see where the pump is -- and what a pain it would be to replace that -- and it also gave me the opportunity to replace more hardware with stainless and to clean up some very bad wiring from my re-power. I ended up using stainless nylock nuts when re-installing the actuators, instead of the integrated nut/washer that Bill H. recommended, but only because I had them on hand.

I also figured out why these cables failed - they were new in 2007 with my re-power. My mechanic used very hi-end cable: vinyl coated and with a vinyl insert sleeve, both intended to resist rusting. Unfortunately the damn stuff does not tolerate heat well and was melting during operation. Over time the steel wire in the cable got all kinked up from the binding with the melted vinyl. That crap is gone!!

:letitsnow: :winterrules:
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