[cumminscanuck]

Thanks to Brian I have all the parts necessary to rebuild the clutch on my 448. :thumbsup:
I have assembled it (several times) according to the diagram in the Parts manual page 26. Given that the serial number is 9789742 I am following the alternate assembly in the small box at the bottom left of the page. Everything goes together well but the snowcaster runs as soon as the engine starts regardless of the clutch lever position. Given that I cannot disengage the drive, I have obviously assembled things wrong.
When I check the friction plate clearance it is much more than the book figure (7 thou. max) but I cannot reduce it because the adjust nut (#18) bottoms out against the end of the threaded portion of the shaft. I know I must have done something wrong but I'm darned if I can figure out what :headscratcher: :headscratcher: :headscratcher:
Also, I have one spacer which measures 0.0160 in thickness which I assume is item 19, am I correct to assume this and can I use 2 item 8 spacers to make up for the second item 19 which appears to be missing?
Please guys, help me out here before I take a hammer to the old gal :chopwood:

 

[Hydriv]

Please guys, help me out here before I take a hammer to the old gal :chopwood:

You may not be aware of this but wife-beating is against the law in :canada:

Please tell me which parts manual you are using. Let's start there.

 

[Bart]

A common problem is not realizing that you MUST have all the parts assembled before attempting to adjust the clutch clearance. The fan nut should be snugged down tightly enough to hold all the parts in place but not so tight that you can't turn the large hex nut without a wrench. It may be necessary to snug up the fan nut a bit as you tighten the hex nut to maintain pressure on the hex nut.

 

[cumminscanuck]

Please guys, help me out here before I take a hammer to the old gal :chopwood:

You may not be aware of this but wife-beating is against the law in :canada:

Please tell me which parts manual you are using. Let's start there.

BUT, she likes it, honest :sidelaugh:

I'm using E-Z Clutch Manual 9-51081 downloaded from this site. Looking at pages 4 & 5. I have the pulley with the friction disc shoulder.

I have everything assembled on the shaft and "snugged up" as per the diagram on page 4. The adjust nut "bottoms out" before the friction plate touches the end plate. If I then tighten the hex nut the adjustment gap closes tight with the select lever in the disengage position. Reading this as I write I wonder if I have the adjust nut too tight and the hex nut too loose at the beginning. I finger tighten the adjust nut enough to hold the spacer #19 onto the larger diameter shaft then fit the remaining parts and "snug up" the hex nut before attempting adjustment.

 

[Rob_P]

The fan nut should be snugged down tightly enough to hold all the parts in place but not so tight that you can't turn the large hex nut without a wrench. It may be necessary to snug up the fan nut a bit as you tighten the hex nut to maintain pressure on the hex nut.

:+1: I also found this info from another clutch thread very helpful when adjusting my clutch:

Unfortunately the service manual doesn't address the fact that the flywheel needs to be kept from moving when performing these adjustments. The flywheel will almost always turn when adjusting the 1 3/4" nut and torquing the fan nut preventing you from obtaining a correct adjustment. Just one of those facts of Case/Ingersoll life. I have found the threads on the stud need to be chased periodically also.
I use a Snap-On # A176 adjustable pin spanner, but anyone can take a piece of metal flatbar, drill two 1/4" holes spaced to the holes on an Onan flywheel screen and install two 1/4" bolts and nuts to hold the bolts in place. You can also drill and tap the holes for the bolts. Let the flywheel rotate clockwise until the tool rests on the left side tractor frame. I no longer adjust to .002"-.007" disc gap, I adjust to the point where there is no drag on the pulley from the disc and lock it up there. You gotta remember to remove this tool before you crank the engine over!!!!

 

[Billygoat]

The spanner that came with my 4 1/2" Milwaukee grinder fits the grass screen on my Kohler if that's any help.

 

[cumminscanuck]

Thanks for all the input guys. I managed to get it done this morning by tightening the hex nut until the friction plate binds then backing off on the adjust nut until the gap was correct. I then torqued the hex nut. :thumbsup:
Wouldn't you know it, now that the snowcaster is up and running we have a Chinook with day time temps. up to 7 degrees and nights to 4 so the snow is rapidly disappearing. :letitsnow:

 

[Hydriv]

Take it outside and drive it around for a bit. Engage and disengage the clutch several times while doing this to give it a good test. You want to find out NOW whether you got it right, not when the temp is minus 5 with the wind blowing at 30 MPH and 12 inches of snow to deal with. :thumbsup:

 

[cumminscanuck]

Take it outside and drive it around for a bit. Engage and disengage the clutch several times while doing this to give it a good test. You want to find out NOW whether you got it right, not when the temp is minus 5 with the wind blowing at 30 MPH and 12 inches of snow to deal with. :thumbsup:

:goodpost:

Iv'e been playing with it all day :thumbup: If the weather keeps like this I will have to start thinking about attaching the mower deck :mowlawn:

 

[cliffb]

Just joined the forum and need help on assembling front PTO. Been working on it for days. It's a Case 446 repowered with Honda engine. I cannot get it adjusted correctly.

 

[boomers_influence]

cliff
i think you should have started a new tHREAD on this.
POSS that the mods can do this for you.
you will need LOTS of pics for us to help you.
thank you. boomer