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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i'm looking for the correct hydraulic lines & valves to run a tiller on my 446 ( serial # 9727867 ). do any of the manuals have schematics of various year hydraulic line circuits ? where should i start looking? what might i expect to pay?
 

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No matter where you find a used PTO Kit, the best way to determine if it is an exact fit for your tractor is to make use of the Tech Library. Use your serial number to find the correct Parts Manual for your tractor. Scroll down that PDF and you will find the part numbers for the valve, bracket, lines and fittings that make up the PTO Kit. If you come across a kit for sale, then ask the Seller for the serial number and model number of the tractor his kit was mounted on. That serial number will tell you which Parts Manual to look in. Compare the part numbers to see what matches and what does not match. Your tractor should have a J-17 PTO kit.

However, if you are willing to purchase two hydraulic hoses and some fittings, then a K-17 or L-17 kit will work. The major issue is with the steel lines and how they are bent. Case used different routing in different years.


Prices go from $100.00 for a basic valve and bracket to as much as $250.00 for a hotly contested complete kit on e-Bay. I personally think that $175.00 is a fair price for a complete kit in the market of today. Other's are free to disagree.

As I said.... put an advert on this site on the Sale/Trade/ Wanted bulletin board

- check Craigslist every day

- watch e-Bay every day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
so the pto data is in the owner manuals-i'll have a look. my mechanical is experience does not include any hydraulic work except for replacing an occasional hose over the years. besides being not original & a sacrilege why could'nt you just add some hoses & a valve to run a tiller. do these valves have specific flow rate requirements? i originally went to look at a mod. 224. after testing both rigs & talking awhile the owner agreed to sell the 446. he had a valve mounted on the rt. rear fender that raised & lowered the 3 pt hitch. looked like it worked fine.
 

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Rear PTO and lift control for 3-point are two different animals.
Go here viewtopic.php?f=25&t=631
Pick Manual 9-50881, It is a great explanation of the basic Case hydraulic system to systems with multiple options. It will explain in plain English how it all works together. This will make adding options to your tractor much easier. Believe me, it's a lot cheaper to do it right the first time than buy stuff that doesn't work the way you want. "Do It Nice or Do It Twice"
 

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That is NOT what I said. Please read my posts more carefully.

I suggested that you go to the PARTS MANUAL section of the Tech Library, not the Operator's Manual section. We ask that all new members spend some time thoroughly exploring the entire site so that they know what is here and where to find it. On one hand, we are will to bend over backward to help newcomers but on the other hand, we expect them to take a certain amount of initiative and learn on their own by reading. As an example, in the Service Manual section under Hydraulics, there is a bulletin that explains how the Case hydraulic system works and it does so in great detail, including coloured drawings that show flow paths.

The rear PTO valve would likely cost you $200.00 or more to purchase new at a hydraulics shop. This valve does not meter oil. It is essentially an ON-OFF-ON switch that allows the full flow from the pump to be redirected in either direction so that the tiller can be reversed at will. Also contained in that valve is an adjustable pressure relief and that item is an absolute necessity. This valve sees up to ten GPM @2200 PSI whereas a 3 pt hitch cylinder only needs about 2 GPM @ 585 PSI.

Some owners have taken a used travel/lift valve from a parted-out tractor and used the travel spool as the PTO valve and the lift spool to control the 3 pt hitch cylinder. It is not as neat an installation as the OEM J-17 valve but it works. The main issue has to do with adding suitable control levers that will stay where you want them to. Just look underneath your tractor and find the valve that the steel lines from the drive motor connect to. That is what you will get if you go with one of those.


Buying the correct kit means that all you need is some time and some wrenches. Anything else calls for a whole lot more time to engineer and install it plus the cost of materials needed to make it all work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
tom- the 'owners manual reference was a typo. i was thinking one thing & typed another.
that all makes a lot of sense. that is why i asked. thanks.
i have been reading these pages since joining & will continue to do so.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
i plan on doing a lot of reading here. thought i'd found a pto. turns out it's for a long wheel base 448. did not realize there were different wheel bases. thanks to this forum i did not make a costly mistake.!!
 

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Wheelbase is 46" on all 200 and 3000 Series tractors as well as all 400 Series made before 1980. All 444, 446 and 448 tractors made for the 1980 model year have 48" WB as do all 4000, 4100 and 4200 Series Ingersoll's.
 
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