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I have a VASSAR rear scraper blade mounted on a 06 Ingersoll 4018 with a selector valve. The blade weights about 120lbs and I need to add counterweight to the front of the tractor that will not interfere with the snow caster.

Has anyone found a way around this obstacle?

How much weight would I need as a counterweight for a 120 lb scraper blade extending about 4 feet from the 3-point hitch?

Some of my thoughts for counterweight are listed below, I would be interested in any feedback.

Using some Nautilus style weights, the rectangular ones used on exercise equipment and stacking a few of them together and laying them over the tractor frame between the hood hinges and the electric PTO, using eyebolts and turn buckles for mounting, I do not believe I could fit a sufficient amount of counterweight in this area alone

Another thought was to use lead shot in some black pipe with caps and place the black pipe across the frame between the hood hinges and the electric PTO. Again I am not sure how much weight I could fit in this area

My latest thought has been to cast some front wheel weights by getting a spare set of rims and removing the tires. Drilling 2-4 holes through the rim around the center hub and placing some carriage bolts thought the rim with a nut on each side of the rim letting me be able to tighten the nuts and leave the bolt heads sticking up from the rim about 1-2 inches. Set the rim in a cold-water bath without letting the water gets into the rim center. Melting 50 lbs of lead and pouring it into the rim and let it cool and harden around the bolts. The weights would not be removable and become part of the rim. My concerns are will the steel take the heat without distorting beyond use? Would I cause any front-end damage or wheel spindle damage to my tractor using the front wheels to be the counterweight?

One other thought was putting the 40-50 lbs of lead shot directly into the spare set of front tires and inflating the tires. Again I have the same concern as above causing any front-end damage or wheel spindle damage to my tractor using the front wheels to be the counterweight? Would the lead shot possibly cause the tire to leak by working its way into the bead? I do not think this would be a problem with a properly inflated tire as long as the tire is not over filled with lead shot.

Thanks
Mark
 

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For experimental purposes, you could mount the blower and blade on the tractor and set it up just as it would be for next winter. If you have bagged material around of a known weight ( rock salt, softener salt, concrete mix etc), you could just lay one those bags on the nose of the hood and then operate the tractor as you would when clearing your driveway. That should give you a pretty good idea as to how much weight will be needed.

I did see photos on another site (which one, escapes me) where the owner installed weights on a custom bracket that attached to the mule bracket and did not interfere with the operation of the implement. I cannot remember why he did this or whether it was a blade or blower.

The local scrap yard should yield suitable steel, iron or lead that would give you what you want. If you want "small", then go with lead.
 

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markgru02919 said:
How much weight would I need as a counterweight for a 120 lb scraper blade extending about 4 feet from the 3-point hitch?

You can get a pretty good idea of the amount of weight required by measuring the distance between the center of the rear wheels and the center of gravity of the blade then measure the distance from the rear wheels and the intended location of the weights. Multiply the first number by 120 lbs and divide by the second number to get the weight required.

Some of my thoughts for counterweight are listed below, I would be interested in any feedback.

concerns are will the steel take the heat without distorting beyond use? Would I cause any front-end damage or wheel spindle damage to my tractor using the front wheels to be the counterweight?
The heat required to melt lead will have an inconsequential effect on the steel.

One other thought was putting the 40-50 lbs of lead shot directly into the spare set of front tires and inflating the tires. Again I have the same concern as above causing any front-end damage or wheel spindle damage to my tractor using the front wheels to be the counterweight? Would the lead shot possibly cause the tire to leak by working its way into the bead? I do not think this would be a problem with a properly inflated tire as long as the tire is not over filled with lead shot.

Thanks
Mark
I wouldn't put lead shot into the tires though I can't give you a good reason not to other than it would probably abrade the tires over time. Adding weight to the wheels wouldn't cause any problems with the axle.
 

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Using Barts formula and distances of 48" & 60" I came out with 100lbs

A rectangular block of steel 4"X6"X12" would fit the bill, (95lbs) bigger would be better if space allows

I picture this block having two slots milled in the 6" face, slide the slots over the ribs on the snowcaster mounting plate and weld in place. :headscratcher:

Downside: the mounting bracket is going to be more difficult to install & remove.
 

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IMO, whatever weight you end up using, should be easily removable from the front of the tractor by itself. Installing front mount attachments is not normally a difficult exercise but having a 100 pound weight welded onto the bracket would certainly change the degree of difficulty.

i think that it would be wiser to make a bracket that bolts to the mule but also has a large backer plate behind the mule bracket to reinforce it so that the bolts don't pull free, cause metal cracking or mule plate distortion.
 

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Simple way to get same front tire pact downforce w/ rear implementraised is to put an old bath scale under one of the front tires without implement. Then add implement, raise it, and add weights to front end until you get back to pre-implement measurement onthe scale. Be careful with the scale though.
 
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