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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am in the middle of a partial restoration of a '78 446 (repainting hood and fenders) and have purchased replacement decals from Maple Hunter. I took pictures of the original decal placement on the hood and fenders before those items were blasted so I have a decent idea of where they should be placed, but was wondering if Case/Ingersoll ever published any specific guidance/measurements on the prescribed placement of the decals.

Thanks in advance for your feedback.

Tim
 

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Tim, as far as I know, Case did not issue any technical data sheet that show the corrrect placements of the decals with measurements. As long as you took a few pictures and trust your eyes and steady hands then Id say just install the new one using the ol eye balled method.
 

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:goodpost: :+1:

No such manual exists to the best of my knowledge.

Perhaps another member will be willing to give you the measurements you should have taken before you blasted everything. :sidelaugh: :sidelaugh:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I took some measurements along with a number of pictures of the original decals while holding a small machinists ruler so I have a rough idea of where the decals should be placed. However, I recently noticed that the quality of the pictures that I took weren't very good. :oops:

Thanks for the feedback.
 

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NutCASE said:
Not so sure about Case, but since I have 34 years in the automotive industry and have had several decals put on in areas of my control I may be able to offer some guidance...they probably used a 'fixture' which went in place over the hood and all the operator had to do was to put the decal in the opening ...thus, no measurement necessary.

What you may be able to do is ..first prep the area with alcohol then put a light erasable ink line right along your long edge exactly where you want the decal to lay...then when you apply the decal...just use the line to guide you. Another thing you may not know...warm the decal AND the Hood I think the ideal temp for both was warn to the touch so 100F...once the air bubbles are out...it is on forever...gl
Nutcase

Thanks for the Tip :thumbsup: :trink:

I've read about spraying something on so that one can slide them around :headscratcher: :headscratcher:

You ever use such stuff ?

Stewart :canada:
 

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Stewart said:
I've read about spraying something on so that one can slide them around :headscratcher: :headscratcher:
My wife's cousin makes and applies race car decals for a living. (mostly back yard racers and non-pros) She recommends mixing 12 oz water with about 5 drops of baby shampoo in it.

The guy who film tinted my patio doors uses the same stuff, and he was working material that was 3x6 feet in size. He swears by it.

You will need a nylon scraper to work the bubbles out. Nylon is stiff, but soft enough that it won't tear the vinyl.

YouTube is full of videos on how to do this. Here is a pretty basic one.
 

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I second the product that MJoe recommended, "RapidTac". I ordered some of it after hearing MJoe had good results with it. Every decal I've replaced (including the dash decal) I used RapidTac to help with the installation. Helps give you that extra time to make any final adjustments and also promotes good adhesion. After getting the decal in final position, an additional light spray on the transfer film helps separate it from the decal, leaving the decal in position. Real good stuff!
 

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Guys, I should have the hood back for my 4223 this weekend after it being stripped and powdercoated. I am a bit concerned about putting the decals on it and screwing them up. As a person never doing this before would you recommend doing this or paying a body shop to install them?
 

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If you use a product like the above folks are talking about, you should have no problems. Take your time and work from one side to the other. Watch some videos on youtube. I'm sure a local graphics shop would do it for you, but wouldn't you rather tell folks this was your project and that you learned a few things?
 

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I would recommend that you do this task. It's not as tough as you think.

- spray bottle with water and a few drops of dishwashing liquid. According to Madge, Palmolive is kind to your pinkies.

- plastic squeegee- same type as you would use to apply body filler.

- ruler

- masking tape

- china marker

-scissors


Measure the length of the decal and divide that length in two.

Measure your hood where the decal is supposed to go and divide that in two.

Use the china marker on the hood and the decal to show the mid-point of each.

Without removing any mask from the decal, use the masking TAPE to secure the decal to the hood at one side of the mid-point and at both ends.


Step back............ how does it look? Use your ruler. Is it on straight? Most importantly.... is it where you want it to be?

If so, then take all of the measurements and transfer them to the opposite side using the china marker. Put some china marker lines on the first side of the hood to guide you where the top of the decal sits as well as both ends.

Happy now?

Good.

Remove the masking tape on the left side of the decal. Lift the decal away from the hood. Use your fingernails to open up the end of the decal so you can peel the mask off the decal very slowly and carefully. Get a helper to hold the actual end of the decal while you peel the mask toward the mid-point. Then use the scissors to cut off the mask. It does not matter how close you are to the mid-point with this cut.


With the mask out of the way, spray the hood area where the decal is to go on with a light film of soapy water.

While holding the end of the decal at about 45 degrees to the hood, use the squeegee (starting at the mid-point) to slowly apply the decal to the hood. Do not rush. Make sure your decal is lining up with the china marker lines as you proceed. Keep moving to the left until you reach the end. If you need to lift the decal to correct a mistake in alignment the just be careful. The soapy water is there for that reason. Inspect your work. Use the squeegee to force out any air bubbles and push the decal tight against the hood.

ONLY when you are happy with the first phase do you remove the masking tape on the right side and repeat the process.

By the time you finish the first decal, you will have plenty of confidence to tackle the other side. The long, strip-type decals are the most challenging. Get this behind you and no decal will frighten you in the future.
 
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