[Rob_P]

My J46 deck threw its center blade while mowing the other day. I don't know why this happened, because I removed the blades and sharpened them this spring, and torqued the bolts down well with new lock washers. Anyway, I tried to chase the now-damaged threads in the plate that the blade mounts to without success. The threads were too damaged and the bolts would not torque down, so I filled the holes with JB Weld and will drill and tap them tomorrow when the epoxy is cured.

I told that story in order to ask this question: I noticed that the blade mounting plates on all three spindles have a slight amount of "rocker" to them. That is to say, they are bent upwards at the outboard ends, so that a straight edge held against them will rock back and forth slightly. The gap seems to be consistent across all three plates. In the parts manual, they appear to be completely flat. Is this normal? When I refurbish this deck this winter, should I be concerned about this curvature enough to replace the spindles with new ones?

Rob

 

[Stewart]

Just hammer em straight. :thumbsup:

 

[99flhr]

I`d install a thread insert or clearance drill and add a nylock on "top" before I`d trust epoxy to hold that spinning mass. JMO YMMV etc etc

 

[Hydriv]

I have seen spindles that have differing thicknesses of steel used for the bottom plate. The thinner ones are always bent upward just like yours are, Rob. They are supposed to be dead flat but lawn scalping and other contact causes the blades to bend upward and the spindle plates likewise. As mentioned. you can either press them straight or use a BFH and anvil or the same plus a big bench vice.


You could drill the plate out to the next size and tap it with a fine thread instead of course, to get more threads. Blades don't last forever so drilling one of them out isn't a big deal. A helicoil will also work but so will drilling the damaged thread with a clearance drill and welding a nut on the other side. This is a minor problem with the spindle and it can be repaired easily to return it to many more years of service.

 

[CASE 220/4]

Rob, you can always just drill the hole out and put a bolt with a nylon locking nut on top of it. If you go that route then make sure you use some RED loctite. If it were me I would just weld a nut on the top side of the mounting plate and then use a slightly longer bolt of the same size thread.

 

[Rob_P]

Don't know why adding a Nylock on the backside didn't occur to me. :facepalm: Oh well, the JB Weld is already setting up. I'll drill and tap it tomorrow and see what happens. I'm very familiar with the bench vise & BFH straightening method. Good to know some things never change! :thumbsup: Thank you all for your advice.
Rob

 

[Rockdog]

Please dont run that with JB Weld if you have your wife or kids within a mile of it.

 

[Nutcase446]

That's assuming that he likes his wife and kids.....I agree with Rockdog on this. If you insist on trying JB, make sure that no one is around. JB weld is great stuff but not for that application.
There is not much room between the top of the spindle and the housing for a nut though as Tom mentioned earlier there is some varation to the spindles over the years. I've seen thinner "jam nuts" used with red lock tight. Along with what has been mentioned I've seen a couple of other methods used to buy time on worn out spindles. The blade can be rotated a few degrees and new holes drilled and tapped. I've also seen the blade welded through the center hole to the spindle. Once the blade is worn out you would then need spindles. For either of these to work, one would have to be very carefull to get the blade centered. I've also seen grade 8 bolts (with the heads ground thin) installed down through the spindle and tacked on the top. Nuts are then used to hold on the blades on. Of course the correct fix is new spindles.

 

[Kenc]

My favorite fix is this:
Use a nut, preferably fine thread on the back side,
BUT
drill the hole out and turn a shoulder on the nut that fits the hole. The depth of the shoulder should equal the thickness of the plate.

This allows the maximum amount of threads and minimizes the additional thickness of a plain nut.
bolt the blade on and tack weld the nut in place just to keep it from turning.

I think the nuts may be available commercially as 'weld nuts', but I just make them. Since I no longer have a metal cutting lathe I just do it on my drill press. A bolt with the head cut off, the nut run on it and a coarse file at medium speed is all it takes.

 

[99flhr]

I think the nuts may be available commercially as 'weld nuts',

See McMaster Carr for "thin" nuts.
Good info on making your own. :clap:

 

[Rob_P]

That's assuming that he likes his wife and kids.....

Thanks for the info. Your concerns are duly noted. Just to be clear, I would give my life for my wife or kids, at any time, and without thinking about it. :thumbsup: At this time, I do not own a lathe, or a drill press, or a welder. I haven't tried to tap the JB Welded repair yet, and don't know if it will fail or not. I MAY have just enough room to get a locking nut on the backside of the spindle plate. I'll report back after the repair is complete and has gone through a duty cycle.
Rob

 

[Kenc]

here's a link to the nuts I mentioned:
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/Weld-N ... _sku=1LAH4

 

[Rockdog]

JB Weld will fail and I wouldnt even 'try it once'. Thats a dangerous move.

 

[Hydriv]

I agree with all the warnings regarding JB Weld being used for this application however if the ONE bolt should drop out, there is a second bolt that will retain the blade. The loss of the one bolt may allow the blade to strike the sides of the deck shell and baffling thus creating a noise that would be noticed immediately. If anything, this will be an interesting test for the re-knowned JB Weld. We all think it will fail but perhaps we might be surprised at how long it lasts. :trink:

 

[Stewart]

I agree with all the warnings regarding JB Weld being used for this application however if the ONE bolt should drop out, there is a second bolt that will retain the blade. The loss of the one bolt may allow the blade to strike the sides of the deck shell and baffling thus creating a noise that would be noticed immediately. If anything, this will be an interesting test for the re-knowned JB Weld. We all think it will fail but perhaps we might be surprised at how long it lasts. :trink:

I agree with Blondie :thumbsup:

Stewart :canada:

 

[Hydriv]

I agree with all the warnings regarding JB Weld being used for this application however if the ONE bolt should drop out, there is a second bolt that will retain the blade. The loss of the one bolt may allow the blade to strike the sides of the deck shell and baffling thus creating a noise that would be noticed immediately. If anything, this will be an interesting test for the re-knowned JB Weld. We all think it will fail but perhaps we might be surprised at how long it lasts. :trink:

I agree with Blondie :thumbsup:

Stewart :canada:

Still trying to get into my pants Stewart?

 

[Stewart]

I agree with all the warnings regarding JB Weld being used for this application however if the ONE bolt should drop out, there is a second bolt that will retain the blade. The loss of the one bolt may allow the blade to strike the sides of the deck shell and baffling thus creating a noise that would be noticed immediately. If anything, this will be an interesting test for the re-knowned JB Weld. We all think it will fail but perhaps we might be surprised at how long it lasts. :trink:

I agree with Blondie :thumbsup:

Stewart :canada:

Still trying to get into my pants Stewart?

Not really, but now you mentioned it. :headscratcher: :headscratcher:

Hope Rich doesn't tell your cousin Freida about this thread. :sidelaugh: :sidelaugh: :sidelaugh:

 

[Rockdog]

Maybe I'm anal about certain things. I dont mess around with brakes, suspension, steering, or high-speed rotating parts. I worked with a kid who was killed when he took a piece of shrapnel through his hard hat and chest when a drive clutch blew apart (a BRAND NEW 'REBUILT' one at that). The problem with something like JB 'Weld' in this instance is that the risk is tooooo great and there's a difference between a blade banging around and one flying accross your lawn.

 

[99flhr]

Still trying to get into my pants Stewart?

Not really, but now you mentioned it. :headscratcher: :headscratcher:
[/quote]

Don`t do it. it`s actually Frau Gertrude Linkmeyer hiding behind that Hilda avatar

 

[Stewart]

Maybe I'm anal about certain things. I dont mess around with brakes, suspension, steering, or high-speed rotating parts. I worked with a kid who was killed when he took a piece of shrapnel through his hard hat and chest when a drive clutch blew apart (a BRAND NEW 'REBUILT' one at that). The problem with something like JB 'Weld' in this instance is that the risk is tooooo great and there's a difference between a blade banging around and one flying accross your lawn.

Oops pressed the wrong button, hit the thank you button by mistake. :facepalm:

Maybe you are. :sidelaugh: :sidelaugh: :sidelaugh: :sidelaugh:

Rob P and I are in training to be Master Case Mechs . :thumbsup: A little danger along the way is part of the training. :drinkbuddies:

As I see it, the worst case would be as a member mentioned earlier. The blade comes loose and beats the shit out of the deck.

I will wait for Rob P's Report. Hopefully it doesn't come the Emergency Dept. :sidelaugh: :sidelaugh: :sidelaugh: