Case Colt Ingersoll Tractors banner
1 - 5 of 5 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, I was wondering if anyone would be able to send me a picture of their wiring. I have a 222 with a starter-gen and a gen light. I rewired it this summer because all the electrics were ripped out of it when I bought it. The day I wired it up there was some smoke pouring out from under the hood the first time I hit the key. Then I had disconnected the safteys from my "I" terminal and tried again and had no smoke issues. The tractor is currently apart in boxes but I would like to know what I was doing wrong so when I rewire it later this year I don't have any issues.

So... the manual below is what I had used to wire it. It shows the solenoid I believe upright. However it appears to show the safteys going to the left side which would be the S terminal. And it shows the ignition switch being connected to "i". I wired it the opposite because my understanding was "i" was ground and S should take current from the IGN switch.

I thought maybe the solenoids that originally came with the tractor were reversed and S was on the right and "i" is on the left. However, one of the only electrical components that were still in it was the original solenoid and it has S on the left and "i" on the right when upright.

Naturally I thought the manual actually wants the solenoid upside down so "i" is on the left and S is on the right but that would mean I wired the big posts backwards and blew up the solenoid, but if I blew up the solenoid I shouldn't have been able to start it no problem after that correct?

I took off the VR cover to see if anything was burnt in there and it didn't appear to be. I didn't polarize the regualator with the generator. I don't know if I was supposed to do that or not.

I was hoping someone could send me a picture of their wiring. That would be a great help if someone is willing to do that. There are pictures below aswell. the colored diagram is something I did to match the colors I used to wire it so you can kind of trace it back from the picture below so you can see how I had it wired. This is on a Case Ingersoll 222 with a starter gen and gen light.

-Thanks for your time
 

Attachments

· Registered
Joined
·
659 Posts
Sorry, I don't have any pictures. However, I think your troubles may be due to an incorrect starter solenoid.

There are several versions of those solenoids that all look the same but have different internal connections on the two small studs.

Seeing as how the one you have is marked "S" and "I", I believe that is intended for Ford vehicles where the "I" terminal feeds power to the ignition to momentarily bypass an ignition ballast resistor for hotter spark when cranking. Since that "I" terminal becomes live when the solenoid is activated (by powering the "S" terminal), connecting it to the tractor's safety switches (which provide a ground when closed) would result in a short circuit. And if the fuse (number 22 on your first diagram) was omitted or is too large for the wire gauge used, the short circuit could burn up some wires.

The solenoid you have now likely has one side of it's internal coil grounded to it's mounting base. So that is allowing it to start the tractor (with the S terminal hooked up and the I terminal / safety switches disconnected). But it doesn't give you the ability to hook up the safety switches in their original configuration.

The correct solenoid for your tractor will have it's internal coil connected across the two small studs. So the ignition switch applies power to one of the small studs and the other one gets grounded (through the safety switches) to complete the circuit and activate the solenoid. It doesn't matter which wire goes to which small stud with that type of solenoid.

Note, you can use a multimeter (set to the resistance / continuity scale) to check the solenoid and verify it's configuration. One that is correct for your tractor should show continuity between the two small studs. But not show continuity between it's mounting bracket and either of the two small studs.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sorry, I don't have any pictures. However, I think your troubles may be due to an incorrect starter solenoid.

There are several versions of those solenoids that all look the same but have different internal connections on the two small studs.

Seeing as how the one you have is marked "S" and "I", I believe that is intended for Ford vehicles where the "I" terminal feeds power to the ignition to momentarily bypass an ignition ballast resistor for hotter spark when cranking. Since that "I" terminal becomes live when the solenoid is activated (by powering the "S" terminal), connecting it to the tractor's safety switches (which provide a ground when closed) would result in a short circuit. And if the fuse (number 22 on your first diagram) was omitted or is too large for the wire gauge used, the short circuit could burn up some wires.

The solenoid you have now likely has one side of it's internal coil grounded to it's mounting base. So that is allowing it to start the tractor (with the S terminal hooked up and the I terminal / safety switches disconnected). But it doesn't give you the ability to hook up the safety switches in their original configuration.

The correct solenoid for your tractor will have it's internal coil connected across the two small studs. So the ignition switch applies power to one of the small studs and the other one gets grounded (through the safety switches) to complete the circuit and activate the solenoid. It doesn't matter which wire goes to which small stud with that type of solenoid.

Note, you can use a multimeter (set to the resistance / continuity scale) to check the solenoid and verify it's configuration. One that is correct for your tractor should show continuity between the two small studs. But not show continuity between it's mounting bracket and either of the two small studs.
First of all, I just want to say thank you for taking the time to write all this to help me out. So everything you said there is 100% correct. I apparently have a solenoid that is grounded from the frame and not the "I" terminal. The neutral saftey switch ( #5 in the diagram) is plastic and I think becuase it was sending out current to the saftey switch the hot wire connected to it must have smoked the plastic on the switch. I did the test on the solenoid and I had current flowing from the S terminal to the body and nothing flowing from S to "I". What ticks me off is on Isavetractors.com the description on the solenoid says the "I" post is ground. I actually emailed Norman ( the owner of the website) months ago and asked him if the "I" terminal was ground and he said it was. well... that is clearly not the case lol. again, THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR YOUR HELP! It truly means a lot to me! I'm going to email Norman AGAIN and give him a piece of my mind 😅. Thanks again!
 

· Registered
Joined
·
659 Posts
You're welcome!

When configured with an isolated coil, the two small studs on these solenoids are usually not labeled "S" and "I". However, there could very well be some manufacturers that are using housings with those S and I labels molded into them even though the coils are isolated. So, just guessing, but maybe that's what Norman assumed when he told you the I terminal was ground.

Although if you bought the solenoid from him, it doesn't match up with the description on his website which reads: "These solenoids have 2 small terminals. One terminal is for the 12v activation circuit from your key switch, and the other is for ground. Terminals are interchangeable."
 

· Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You're welcome!

When configured with an isolated coil, the two small studs on these solenoids are usually not labeled "S" and "I". However, there could very well be some manufacturers that are using housings with those S and I labels molded into them even though the coils are isolated. So, just guessing, but maybe that's what Norman assumed when he told you the I terminal was ground.

Although if you bought the solenoid from him, it doesn't match up with the description on his website which reads: "These solenoids have 2 small terminals. One terminal is for the 12v activation circuit from your key switch, and the other is for ground. Terminals are interchangeable."
Yep, I just shot him an email I’ll see what he says. There’s definitely a good chance that he assumed that was the case.
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Top