We have an Ingersol 3018 with an Onan ONAN P218G-I / 10904B. I replaced the voltage rectifier as well as the 3 dash bulbs. Now when I run the tractor the battery & neutral lights are lit. I'm thinking this is related to the 2 micro switches that are paired together behind the battery. I'm not sure if the whole problem is there though. When I grab the pin that moves the levers on the micro switches it seems to be loose. Is this normal? I'm somewhat reluctant to change the switches because the levers are bent & I am not sure if I can get them bent in the proper manner to get the lights to go out. Is this a trial & error thing or will the switches work if the levers are not bent but straight? Thanks.
Electrical Problems
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Hi tedwoodie,
The two microswitches are stacked together and held in place by two long but small diameter screws. Should you remove these switches do not let the screws fall out from behind the bracket, not easy to reinstall them. As for the switches themselves, usually the first one closest to the engine is the neutral safety switch, the second is for the neutral light in the panel. The switches should be tight, but don't overtighten the small nuts as you can break the screws and/or the switches. They both are actuated by the pin that is stuck into the travel lever. Installed into the electrical circuitry is a voltage sensor and it operates the battery light. These sensors have a high failure rate and when bad will leave the battery light on. Install a voltmeter set to volts DC across the battery and run the engine. If the charging system is operating correctly the voltage will be 13.8-14.3 VDC. The levers on the switches are bent as they come out of the switch, but should be straight from there. The neutral light should go out when the travel lever is not in the neutral position.
Mad Mackie in CT :mrgreen: :mowlawn:
The two microswitches are stacked together and held in place by two long but small diameter screws. Should you remove these switches do not let the screws fall out from behind the bracket, not easy to reinstall them. As for the switches themselves, usually the first one closest to the engine is the neutral safety switch, the second is for the neutral light in the panel. The switches should be tight, but don't overtighten the small nuts as you can break the screws and/or the switches. They both are actuated by the pin that is stuck into the travel lever. Installed into the electrical circuitry is a voltage sensor and it operates the battery light. These sensors have a high failure rate and when bad will leave the battery light on. Install a voltmeter set to volts DC across the battery and run the engine. If the charging system is operating correctly the voltage will be 13.8-14.3 VDC. The levers on the switches are bent as they come out of the switch, but should be straight from there. The neutral light should go out when the travel lever is not in the neutral position.
Mad Mackie in CT :mrgreen: :mowlawn:
Thanks for the tips Mad Mackie. I wondered about those screws that hold the switches in place. Is it much of a job to see the area where the pin is fastened that moves the switch levers? I think some of the problem is there since the pin moves around so easily.
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The finger that is welded to the travel control lever actuates the device that operates the microswitches. Get the PIN number of your tractor, find the download for your tractor in the parts manuals and scroll thru until you find the diagram that relates to this area of the tractor. The horizontal movement of the finger on the travel control lever is changed into a vertical movement by the mechanism that the microswitches are mounted on. The finger on the mechanism then actuates the microswitches in response. Also while into the parts check out the wiring diagram and associated parts as this is where the microswitches are shown.
Mad Mackie in CT :mrgreen: :mowlawn:
Mad Mackie in CT :mrgreen: :mowlawn:
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